Twin in-line 1350s on Switzer 170 SS

[boatman14544]

Wife & friends think i am crazy for this project, i have a pair of 71 1350s in my garage and just picked up a solid 1971 170 ss switzer that i think would make a great nastalgic look on a twisted little boat. motors are both long shaft with t&t. plan on raising the transom 5", hydraulic steering, batteries and fuel mounted up front, trim motors aft and tricking out fuel system with can filters in the motorwell. Am i out of my mind? or does someone else out there think this would be a cool way to go? Any suggestions are encouraged !! thanks mike

[Bruster]

I like it, I might be inclined to make your motors in to shorts, especially if you are thinking of lifting them up. I think it would look cleaner without the jack plate(s). Hydraulic steering would be good. From there on out it is all about the little details. Good luck and let's see some pictures.

[MercNuts]

Im with Bruster. I like it. Tell your wife and friends to stick to other hobbies, youve got this one under control. Im also with Bruster on converting it to shorts. There are lots of those mids around because they go back into the 60s in both 4 and 6 cylinder engines with the right bolt pattern at the top. You can get your driveshafts cut for the shorts without ever having to remove them from the gearcases. The shorter engines will greatly increase the cool factor.

[Old fiberglass]

Is the transom area on a 170 SS even big enough for twins ??? As other folks have said 20" motors would look wrong and be top heavy.

When folks have the shafts cut down but do they re-spline or weld the spline end back on ??

[Instigator]

I love the idea! Definitely need shorty motors to do it justice though. Several people doing cut downs these days.

[boatman14544]

i too love the idea about the short mids but have been unable to find them locally. if i can find and need to cut the driveshafts, i think i need to only take 4" out of then not 5" (20" to 15" transom lengths) also need to cut shift shaft and water tube. thanks a ton for the support.

[Instigator]

i too love the idea about the short mids but have been unable to find them locally. if i can find and need to cut the driveshafts, i think i need to only take 4" out of then not 5" (20" to 15" transom lengths) also need to cut shift shaft and water tube. thanks a ton for the support.

There are several around that can do it for you. Jack Barsh in Jacksonville being one of them. I did a V-6 OMC yrs back and it was easier than you'd think.

[MercNuts]

i too love the idea about the short mids but have been unable to find them locally. if i can find and need to cut the driveshafts, i think i need to only take 4" out of then not 5" (20" to 15" transom lengths) also need to cut shift shaft and water tube. thanks a ton for the support.

You can find them if you look around. I would put a parts wanted ad in the Buy and Sell Marketplace Forum here. The amount you take out of the driveshaft will be dictated by the mid section. On V6 Mercs the difference is exactly 5 inches, but not so on the inline. It is more like 4 and a little bit but I cant remember exactly. If you cut the shiftshafts be sure and put them back exactly as they were in relation to the coupler on the bottom and the arm at the top. It is best to scribe a long line down the shaft that you can line up after you take the section out. If it is off some you will find it difficult to adjust the shift cable where you go all the way into foward and reverse. This is more important on V6s than inlines, but still an aggravation if its off.

Where are you located?

[GENE LANHAM]

-----After you run it the first time---you will probably want to counter-rotate one of the units----

[Bruster]

Way easier said than done.... or do you know something that I don't?

-----After you run it the first time---you will probably want to counter-rotate one of the units----

[GENE LANHAM]

-----After you run it the first time---you will probably want to counter-rotate one of the units----

Torque?;---P-Factor?

[Bruster]

That's Bruster to you!!!LOL Buster is my dog. OK here goes....

Gary MacNorius Lives down is South Florida and is always making something that is too cool.
You probably have seen this before, (the drool on it is probably mine)
Switzercraft Shooting Star with an Action Marine hull section grafted in place. 1500XS power Perfect in every detail.



This is his Ventonu
as he is building it... from scratch.

Here it is in the water
The 115 Merc is one of my motors. The motors were refinished to look like '62 Mercurys..... in most every detail.

Here is a link to "Woody Boater" and the pictures they did this spring:

http://www.woodyboater.com/classic-b...-on-lake-dora/

Ain't that sumthin"

[Robby321]

Interesting idea on twins, a SS17. Let me add some info, (I know many more here know what I do, but this was back in the day). I grew up on the Chain, knew Bob and Dave Switzer. Friend bought a new 1974 SS17 blue stripe louvered cowl, no XS decals, not sure if a J block then, and he don't remember either. Conrad, Bruster, more, know more history that "change", than I do. But later, lunched the motor . Ralph Kozan was the master wrench, us, and he in somewhere,1975/6, put a XS J block on it. Thats when I bought it off him. Now, in the "football cut out? I'd have to ask Bob or Dave on that..(still kicking too, both). But mine had one. My take was it was simple hull design, to run a SS with water getting up, and in the no LPU, top the case water in. And that just a thought me. Just, theorizing the "why there". What other reason why? Before were flat.

Anyway, the Swits were built well, azz end. Now, if to stuff twins it? Hmm...should be room, but maybe would need some top transom glass the wet well, "redone, for room". Glass in some if needed knee braces, and solid after a big made motor mount aluminum transom plate, some top, to rear seat glass, solid braces too. But, here we go, as I know that hull.

On the S/S, or L/S motors? Think it this way. If have separation the motors, what was said, 18 inches? Was that cowl to cowl? If so, then the props will be out, another what, 4/5/6 inches? Now they will be way out the water, with the hull deadrise. I can't find a good azz end pic mine, but if twins, without seeing just what, I would try the long shafts. Build the transom with being able to do height, the motors. Bet only a few inches, if that, will have ya in the sweet spot, prop and case water, rest in air.. Ya know what I mean here.

Sounds like ya are "on it here"! And like the idea too! GO FOR IT! I love those old Swits, wish never sold mine. Couple pix.

[milkdud]

?---Maybe? We were running Left Hand, Shiftable Units (1100's; 1250's) in the late 60's, supplied by Mercury, before the BP came on the scene. Mercury even had a selection of left hand two blade bronze props available----and I do know how they did it---

Gene I am all ears. I have seen one picture of 1100's on the back of a offshore boat. They were wearing normal fishing lower units. One had a LHR prop on it. I assumed they were just dockbustering the rotation of the motors.
Conrad

[Robby321]

Conrad, this. Original post..
"have a pair of 71 1350s in my garage and just picked up a solid 1971 170 ss switzer that i think would make a great nastalgic look on a twisted little boat. motors are both long shaft with t&t. plan on raising the transom 5", hydraulic steering, batteries and fuel mounted up front, trim motors aft and tricking out fuel system with can filters in the motorwell."

He has the motors. and 5 up, should work just fine side the pad. He had to do some math, on that already. On counter rotating props? I duuno that, as never been a Swit 17, with "twins" done that I know of. But I sure know that hull, stable as all get up, it the 70's then. I'd do Brusters Solid mounts, tight HYD steer, bet be no problem.

We are putting the "horse", behind the cart here, when the cart aint built yet. Again, GO FOR IT! And take it from there. Wish the best, and ya BETTER do some pix!