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10-12-2012, 02:32 PM #1Member
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Twin in-line 1350s on Switzer 170 SS
Wife & friends think i am crazy for this project, i have a pair of 71 1350s in my garage and just picked up a solid 1971 170 ss switzer that i think would make a great nastalgic look on a twisted little boat. motors are both long shaft with t&t. plan on raising the transom 5", hydraulic steering, batteries and fuel mounted up front, trim motors aft and tricking out fuel system with can filters in the motorwell. Am i out of my mind? or does someone else out there think this would be a cool way to go? Any suggestions are encouraged !! thanks mike
Last edited by boatman14544; 10-12-2012 at 02:33 PM. Reason: spelling
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10-12-2012, 02:48 PM #2
I like it, I might be inclined to make your motors in to shorts, especially if you are thinking of lifting them up. I think it would look cleaner without the jack plate(s). Hydraulic steering would be good. From there on out it is all about the little details. Good luck and let's see some pictures.
Bruster's Mercury solid motor mounts, details here:
http://www.powercatboat.com/Bruster/Bruster.htmlI'm been living in fast forward, now I need to rewind real slow....
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10-12-2012, 04:26 PM #3Scream And Fly VIP
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Im with Bruster. I like it. Tell your wife and friends to stick to other hobbies, youve got this one under control. Im also with Bruster on converting it to shorts. There are lots of those mids around because they go back into the 60s in both 4 and 6 cylinder engines with the right bolt pattern at the top. You can get your driveshafts cut for the shorts without ever having to remove them from the gearcases. The shorter engines will greatly increase the cool factor.
bama hama
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10-12-2012, 06:20 PM #4
Is the transom area on a 170 SS even big enough for twins ??? As other folks have said 20" motors would look wrong and be top heavy.
When folks have the shafts cut down but do they re-spline or weld the spline end back on ??
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10-13-2012, 08:19 AM #5
I love the idea! Definitely need shorty motors to do it justice though. Several people doing cut downs these days.
I'd rather be competitive w/junk I built in my garage than win w/stuff I bought.
I refuse to allow common sense to interfere w/my boat buying decisions.
Checkmate 16' 140 Johnson
Hydrostream 17' Vector FrankenRude I
Laser 480 (?) 21' w/GT 200
Glastron Carlson Conquest w/XP 2.6
Glastron Carlson CVX 20 w/XP 2.6
24' Sonic w/twin 250 Johnsons
24' Sonic w/twin 250 HO Johnsons
19' STV River Rocket w/FrankenRude II
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10-13-2012, 08:32 AM #6Member
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i too love the idea about the short mids but have been unable to find them locally. if i can find and need to cut the driveshafts, i think i need to only take 4" out of then not 5" (20" to 15" transom lengths) also need to cut shift shaft and water tube. thanks a ton for the support.
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10-13-2012, 11:37 AM #7I'd rather be competitive w/junk I built in my garage than win w/stuff I bought.
I refuse to allow common sense to interfere w/my boat buying decisions.
Checkmate 16' 140 Johnson
Hydrostream 17' Vector FrankenRude I
Laser 480 (?) 21' w/GT 200
Glastron Carlson Conquest w/XP 2.6
Glastron Carlson CVX 20 w/XP 2.6
24' Sonic w/twin 250 Johnsons
24' Sonic w/twin 250 HO Johnsons
19' STV River Rocket w/FrankenRude II
Allison XR 2002 w/Frankenrude II
Hydrostream 18' V-King w/Frankenrude II
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10-13-2012, 04:08 PM #8Scream And Fly VIP
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You can find them if you look around. I would put a parts wanted ad in the Buy and Sell Marketplace Forum here. The amount you take out of the driveshaft will be dictated by the mid section. On V6 Mercs the difference is exactly 5 inches, but not so on the inline. It is more like 4 and a little bit but I cant remember exactly. If you cut the shiftshafts be sure and put them back exactly as they were in relation to the coupler on the bottom and the arm at the top. It is best to scribe a long line down the shaft that you can line up after you take the section out. If it is off some you will find it difficult to adjust the shift cable where you go all the way into foward and reverse. This is more important on V6s than inlines, but still an aggravation if its off.
Where are you located?bama hama
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10-13-2012, 09:26 PM #97000 RPM
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-----After you run it the first time---you will probably want to counter-rotate one of the units----
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10-13-2012, 09:39 PM #10Bruster's Mercury solid motor mounts, details here:
http://www.powercatboat.com/Bruster/Bruster.htmlI'm been living in fast forward, now I need to rewind real slow....
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GENE LANHAM liked this post
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10-14-2012, 07:46 AM #11
any pre 72 65-135HP inline 4 or 6 short mid will work.
2005 APR FORMULA 2 ROOKIE OF THE YEAR
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10-14-2012, 10:00 AM #12
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10-14-2012, 10:31 AM #13
One thing to keep in mind is the 1350's had a baffle as seen in the parts drawing. If you do the mid swap or cut down yours check to see if yours has this baffle. I believe it makes a difference in the bottom end punch. I have seen a couple of BP mids with this baffle as well. Maybe some more "knowledgeable" folks can elaborate.
Last edited by Old fiberglass; 10-14-2012 at 10:34 AM.
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10-14-2012, 10:32 AM #14Bruster's Mercury solid motor mounts, details here:
http://www.powercatboat.com/Bruster/Bruster.htmlI'm been living in fast forward, now I need to rewind real slow....
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10-14-2012, 10:44 AM #15
Another question for all the experts out there. If you install a just a new driveshaft in an old good lower unit does it "typically" have to be reshimmed ?? In other words can you just install a new driveshaft with no issues ??