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  1. #61
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    Quote Originally Posted by GETBOATS View Post
    bottom blue print begins

    started with many mesurments, settleing on removeing the rocker from the center pod from the transom 6 ft forward. Using the outside sponsons as the baseline as they are straight for about 7 ft. Cut a section from the front half of the pod, so at 6 ft. There will be a step. Will need to fill the last 2.5 ft with as much as 3/4". Attachment 268454Attachment 268455Attachment 268456Attachment 268457thats my question, what to use to make up that gap as it grows moving toward the transon???? Center pod will end up flat from the step to transon.
    here are some center pod shots, with the help of xstreamvking and offshore ginger made up the difference in the area where 3/4" needed to be filled with 1/2" 5 lb desity divinnycell. beded it to ground down center pod with 2 layers of 1708/ve resin. that area was tapered, so there is more divinneycell (2 layers) the closer you get to the transom. all covered with 3 layers of 1708/ve wrapped down 2 inches into vertical pod sides. left a 3/4" step in the last 1 ft. of pod, which is at the level of the original ctr pod, only now its flat with no rounded section. used the guides mounted to the sponsons to keep it all on the same plane. working with p77 today filling in all the low spots and building knife sharp 90's. slooooooow going.Click image for larger version. 

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ID:	269127built a 6 ft. long sanding board last night. after all is very flat and square, i will put the last layer of 1708/ve, fill any low spots and cover with 4 oz cloth/ve, and then finally duratec sandable priner. thanks to all who have chipped in!!!

  2. #62
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    thanks,your boat is looking great !!

  3. #63
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    getting close...........

    last steps before laying the layer of 4 oz. Cloth over the entire running surface.
    Just need to fill some small low spots and raduis the 90's at approx 1/16". So the cloth will stick close and not produce any air viods. Received the white duratec yesterday. Will start the duratec on monday.Click image for larger version. 

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  4. #64
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    Great job , Bud !!

  5. #65
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    Looks good.

    What is that black rail that has been mounted on the sponsons?
    http://www.geocities.com/fletcher_arrowbeau

    Fletcher 17F6
    Hydrostream HST 20F

  6. #66
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    Dammmmmmmmmmmmmm , i love it when a plan starts to come's together looking good , and Big boy , i think the rail is used for flipping the the boat but i could be wrong .

  7. #67
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    Quote Originally Posted by bigboy View Post
    looks good.

    What is that black rail that has been mounted on the sponsons?
    thanks, its been a blast. Big boy the black rail is a guide to align the center pod. It set the height of the pod and as it was built up with glass and p77 i had an easy time grinding it down. I used a 10 ft long 2 x 3 steel beam with 36 grit sand paper attached with contact cement. The weight of the beam pushed and pulled up and down the length of the effected area. All measurements were based of those rails. In the end the center pod running surface and the running surface of the sponsons will be parralell. I think offshore ginger means the rail attached to the transom, and yes it is used to pivot the boat at its center line. Its actually a omc flywheel puller/lifting ring. Thanks for the encouragemant!!!!!!!! Gb

  8. #68
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    In the end the center pod running surface and the running surface of the sponsons will be parralell.


    Will they also be the same depth?

    DB

  9. #69
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    Quote Originally Posted by da bull View Post
    will they also be the same depth?

    Db
    hey db... Yes at the last ft. Where the small step is. The remaining 5 ft of new running surface is 3/4" deeper. Too much of the center pod would had to be cut. However if needed, i can add the the sponsons. Does the subject dig up any menories? C ya gb

  10. #70
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    LOL , yes i did mean the rail attached to the transom.

  11. #71
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    Quote Originally Posted by offshore ginger View Post
    lol , yes i did mean the rail attached to the transom.
    just happy you "get it"

  12. #72
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    Quote Originally Posted by GETBOATS View Post
    hey db... Yes at the last ft. Where the small step is. The remaining 5 ft of new running surface is 3/4" deeper. Too much of the center pod would had to be cut. However if needed, i can add the the sponsons. Does the subject dig up any menories? C ya gb


    I wouldn`t add. The idea is to allow the sponsons to run free of the water and yes, All sorts of memories come to mind. Those Sleeks would run. You knew that when one came hopping down the coarse it was comming fast.

    DB

  13. #73
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    Running the sponsons free is not always faster. I have the software of Jimboat on here. I experimented with it (with the data of my HST hull). I also thought that it would be faster when the sponsons would be higher but the program did not agree. Of course each boat is different!
    http://www.geocities.com/fletcher_arrowbeau

    Fletcher 17F6
    Hydrostream HST 20F

  14. #74
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    I don`t know about programs or trying this on an HST but my info on this trick comes from real world experiance. I saw with my own eyes the "Misty Blue" racing team who was in part sponsored by SleekCraft. There were several differant bottom mods tried. Squeezing the tunnels, reliving the sponsons and many diff set back/engine hight possitions and most were tested in actual races following several test sessions. All boats are differant and react differantly to changes.
    Your HST should follow the same mods as a Stoker sence thats what it was coppied from.

    DB

  15. #75
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    Well...................................John , what's going on , and how about an update ? Artie

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