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  1. #46
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    John , what are you doing up so early~ seeing you live on the West Coast ? Ha Ha Ha

  2. #47
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    Quote Originally Posted by offshore ginger View Post
    john , what are you doing up so early~ seeing you live on the west coast ? Ha ha ha
    just keepin ahead of you!!!

  3. #48
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    bottom blue print begins

    started with many mesurments, settleing on removeing the rocker from the center pod from the transom 6 ft forward. Using the outside sponsons as the baseline as they are straight for about 7 ft. Cut a section from the front half of the pod, so at 6 ft. There will be a step. Will need to fill the last 2.5 ft with as much as 3/4". Click image for larger version. 

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ID:	268457thats my question, what to use to make up that gap as it grows moving toward the transon???? Center pod will end up flat from the step to transon.

  4. #49
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    Something for you to think about, Back in the early days of Mod-VP (80-85) i was told of a Sleekcraft trick. I involved sqeezing the air in the tunnels. They added a wedge to the tunnel ceiling to promote transom lift. I don`t know how long it was but there must be some Sleekcraft devoties out there that would know.

    DB

  5. #50
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    Quote Originally Posted by da bull View Post
    something for you to think about, back in the early days of mod-vp (80-85) i was told of a sleekcraft trick. I involved sqeezing the air in the tunnels. They added a wedge to the tunnel ceiling to promote transom lift. I don`t know how long it was but there must be some sleekcraft devoties out there that would know.

    Db
    hey db. That would'nt be that hard to play with, after we test that might be something to try. My guess is with this change, there will be considerable lift, and needed with 12" set-back and 500 lb of motor. Godd thought..................

  6. #51
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    Those tunnels are realy shallow at the front. I can imagine that the "trick" DB is telling about should work well. The fact that the tunnels are deeper in the back than the front will probably result in too little compression and lift.
    http://www.geocities.com/fletcher_arrowbeau

    Fletcher 17F6
    Hydrostream HST 20F

  7. #52
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    I`ve never driven one myself but have been around several Sleeks way back when. Those suckers were hung high and i mean HIGH! The Misty Blue Mod-VP racing team had several with support from the maker and tried many differant bottom mods and the tunnel wedges were one of the biggest improvements. The other was removing the last 10 inches or so from the outside sponsons. I don`t remember exactly how high they went with the cut but Marvin Catrette told me the cut made top end speed greater but would also bounce in calm water.

    DB

  8. #53
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    Quote Originally Posted by Da Bull View Post
    I`ve never driven one myself but have been around several Sleeks way back when. Those suckers were hung high and i mean HIGH! The Misty Blue Mod-VP racing team had several with support from the maker and tried many differant bottom mods and the tunnel wedges were one of the biggest improvements. The other was removing the last 10 inches or so from the outside sponsons. I don`t remember exactly how high they went with the cut but Marvin Catrette told me the cut made top end speed greater but would also bounce in calm water.

    DB
    That sounds like a good idea. does anyone have any old Mod VP pics of this or know of anyone who ran a sleek back in the day?

  9. #54
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    You may want to try and send "BuddyRoe" on here a pm. His Dad was at one time the main guy racing for Sleekcraft and had all the right bottom mods done to his boat including the one above.

    DB

  10. #55
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    http://www.boatdesign.net/forums/att...ness-chart.jpg John , i will also E - Mail this to you , and nice chatting with you yesterday afternoon ..................................Artie
    Last edited by OFFSHORE GINGER; 12-01-2012 at 11:48 AM.

  11. #56
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    Quote Originally Posted by offshore ginger View Post
    http://www.boatdesign.net/forums/att...ness-chart.jpg john , i will also e - mail this to you , and nice chatting with you yesterday afternoon ..................................artie
    helpfull chart, thanks

  12. #57
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    John , i am on here at the moment and thoght i would post this http://www.expresscomposites.com/duratec1.html and the primer i always use is White # 714-002 and just to let you know once again the prices that you see on this site have been changed or raised for the first time in two years by $ 10 dollars a gallon which still is a very good price .

  13. #58
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    Quote Originally Posted by offshore ginger View Post
    john , i am on here at the moment and thoght i would post this http://www.expresscomposites.com/duratec1.html and the primer i always use is white # 714-002 and just to let you know once again the prices that you see on this site have been changed or raised for the first time in two years by $ 10 dollars a gallon which still is a very good price .
    stuff sounds to good to be true, can't wait to try it!! Btw...camera charger died, as soon as i get if fixed will post more progress pics.

  14. #59
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    Wow you did a great job, i like the coosa /vinylester also,i thinkOG, da bull and others are great assets to the board, i just put my old stream in the shop, was just gonna do some old Bolt hole patches in transom, but agree with you, spend $ and do it right!

  15. #60
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    Quote Originally Posted by varmint View Post
    wow you did a great job, i like the coosa /vinylester also,i thinkog, da bull and others are great assets to the board, i just put my old stream in the shop, was just gonna do some old bolt hole patches in transom, but agree with you, spend $ and do it right!
    hey varmint, drill some holes 1/2" in the transom to get an idea of the condition of the wood inside. Near d rings, engine mount holes, drain plug. If its not clean wood, then its time to think doing a little more exploring. And you are right about the guys on this board, great information and it allowed me to put the puzzle peices together. Good luck with the project!! Gb

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