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  1. #1
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    1985 sleekcraft 20 sst transom replacement

    Hi S & F, bought this 20 sleekcraft sst a month ago, it has been sitting outside for quite some time. Interior was gone and floor had been cut out. Was not planning on a floor anyway. As things turn out, transom is 100% rotten, so the project just got bigger. After some research and reading on this site, composite is the way to go, more money, yes, but i just can't put wood back into this boat. Thanks to offshore ginger and xstreamvking for their advise. Coosa it is.

    Back 3 ft. Of deck removed, transom dug out and thrown away. Existing fiberglass structure is in good shape and intact.


    The transom plan: Using 2 layers of coosa blue water 26# in 3/4" with 1 layer of 1708 between original fiberglass and the new coosa transom. Between the 2 layers of coosa is 2 layers of 1708 with inside finished off with 2 more layers of 1708 all with vinyl ester resin. 3 large knees made from blue water 26#, 1 down the middle in the center pod made up of 2 layers of 3/4" coosa with 1708 sandwitched in the middle. Approx 20" by 24". Two more knees of single layer 3/4 coosa attached to the inside of the tunnels approx. 20 by 42.

    The engine will mount using an existing alum 10" setback. The bolt pattern will straddle the outside knees with 16 5/16 ss hardware.
    Splash well will be filled in with original structure intact.

    Whats the best way to bed the knees to the new transom and the knees to the inside of the tunnels??????

    Does anyone see flaws in the plan?

    Thanks for reading..........getboats

  2. #2
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    Here is the progressClick image for larger version. 

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  3. Likes Speedmaster1414 liked this post
  4. #3
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    Looks great so far!
    Drive it like you stole it!



    1991 Allison GSE 1998 225 ProMax








  5. #4
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    Sounds like you've been doing your homework. I like your plan and choice of materials. 3M 5200 would certainly work as bedding material. I'm no professional so wait and see what the pros suggest. Good luck with your project. Pete
    http://www.screamandfly.com/showthre...interior-re-do

    1986 Skeeter Starfire 150
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    1990 STV Pro Comp

  6. #5
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    That coosa is some good stuff. I`ve been involved with several boats now that we rebuilt using coosa and have had not one failure. One of the boats is a 21ft Eliminator (low sided early model) rigged with two 20inch 225 ProMax Mercs and it`s been running around here now for two years. We did it just about like you`re doing your Sleek.

    DB

  7. #6
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    Hey Pete, thanks. thought about 5200, but wasn't sure if they needed the cushioning effect it would provide, or go with some resin filler. Like you said, wait till the experts shime in. Looked quickly at your rebuild, saw that boat for sale here a while back. Want to check out your method when i have time. When i bought this boat, told myself "fix it, throw some gel coat or paint on it and go tear up the river, it dose'nt have to be perfect" I was wrong, I'm going to make the best i can afford to. thanks, John

  8. #7
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    Personally i would bed them in with a putty made with Cabosil & resin ( peanut consistency ) applying thickened putty to the bonding surface , shaping the eccess putty that squeezes out of the joint making a fillet ( Apply addititional putty if needed ) using a hobby stick which will leave a coved shaped surface for your fabric to roll into when doing your layup .
    Last edited by OFFSHORE GINGER; 09-22-2012 at 11:49 AM.

  9. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by offshore ginger View Post
    personally i would bed them in with a putty made with cabosil & resin ( peanut consistency ) applying thickened putty to the bonding surface , shaping the eccess putty that squeezes out of the joint making a fillet ( apply addititional putty if needed ) using a hobby stick which will leave a coved shaped surface for your fabric to roll into when doing your layup .
    just the guy i was waiting to hear from, thought that's where you would go. I can do that!! Thanks og

    over thinking this i know, but referring to layup in the transom, does it look good and when you are using two layers of 1708, would you lay them mat/cloth to mat/cloth or mat/cloth cloth/mat or? John

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    John , i would lay up both layers of # 1708 , with the binder side down / CSM / Chopped Strand Mat , as normally done in most layups along with staggering my layup along the perimeter of the transom using mutiple layers of fabric , and are you possiably thinking of doing the transom boards ( Coosa ) on the bench prior to glassing them in the boat ? John , in my last post i meant Peanut butter consistency for the putty and speaking for X- Stream & myself you are so very welcome considering we both appreciate a kind word or thank you........ every now and then .
    Last edited by OFFSHORE GINGER; 09-22-2012 at 07:00 PM.

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    Last edited by OFFSHORE GINGER; 09-22-2012 at 03:59 PM.

  12. #11
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    John , this is what i meant by multiple layers of fabric staggered along the perimeter of the transom .

  13. #12
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    Thanks og, yes definetly on the bench, as you can see i have good room to work, until the deck is back on as its a butt joint. Under there its tight, but i think its doable. I thought in addition to the stagger approach, i would turn the 1708 90 deg. This boat has quite a heavy lay up already, in those days they used alot of roving, so other than supporting the tunnels in the gunwale areas and maybe in the area of the dash, it should be good. O, i got the peanut part, had a chuckle at your expense.

    One more thing.....actually 1 of 100....4" or so tabs of 1708 around the inside of the new transom to hull first? And then then final staggered layers of 1708. Or tabs last. Thanks again

  14. #13
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    Was able to spend some time this past weekend installing the new transom, all went as planned.


    Here's how it went together, fiberglass portion of transom left behind was is good condition and about 3/16" thick.


    Added 2 layers of 1708 csm side down.....


    1 layer of 3/4" coosa blue water 26# full width.....


    Added 2 layers of 1708 csm side down....


    1 layer of 3/4" coosa blue water 26# full width....


    Added 2 layers of 1708 csm side down...


    1 30" wide layer 3/4" coosa blue water 26#..


    Added 2 layer of staggered 1708 csm side down..


    All gaps filled with structural putty and 3/4"
    raduis fillets.


    Perimiter of transom tabbed in with 4" strips wide 1708


    installed knee in center pod bedded with structural putty
    it is 2 layers 3/4 coosa blue water 26# with 1708 in between
    each peice. 20" tall by 26" long.


    Installed 2 knees single layer 3/4 coosa blue water 26#
    each outside knee paralells inside for tunnel and is bedded
    with structural putty. 20" tall by 42" long


    all three knees wrapped with 1708, 3/4" fillets and tabbed
    to the hull with 4" strips of 1708.


    Next, on to installing the rear deck which came out with
    transom cap separate.

    Thanks for all the guidance!!!!!!!!!!

    Pics to follow

  15. #14
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    Click image for larger version. 

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    Quote Originally Posted by GETBOATS View Post
    Was able to spend some time this past weekend installing the new transom, all went as planned.


    Here's how it went together, fiberglass portion of transom left behind was is good condition and about 3/16" thick.


    Added 2 layers of 1708 csm side down.....


    1 layer of 3/4" coosa blue water 26# full width.....


    Added 2 layers of 1708 csm side down....


    1 layer of 3/4" coosa blue water 26# full width....


    Added 2 layers of 1708 csm side down...


    1 30" wide layer 3/4" coosa blue water 26#..


    Added 2 layer of staggered 1708 csm side down..


    All gaps filled with structural putty and 3/4"
    raduis fillets.


    Perimiter of transom tabbed in with 4" strips wide 1708


    installed knee in center pod bedded with structural putty
    it is 2 layers 3/4 coosa blue water 26# with 1708 in between
    each peice. 20" tall by 26" long.


    Installed 2 knees single layer 3/4 coosa blue water 26#
    each outside knee paralells inside for tunnel and is bedded
    with structural putty. 20" tall by 42" long


    all three knees wrapped with 1708, 3/4" fillets and tabbed
    to the hull with 4" strips of 1708.


    Next, on to installing the rear deck which came out with
    transom cap separate.

    Thanks for all the guidance!!!!!!!!!!

    Pics to follow

  16. #15
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    Your doin a hell of a job. I like the ratchet strap/2x4 idea.

    DB

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