2.0 build up thread

[Tom JM]

I'm looking for an older thread by T Rex about a "Cherry Build Up of Merc 2.0 and.or 2.4"
I've come up with fragments. Is there a dedicated link to the project start to finish?
Thanks

[strehl]

Here's a link I have to his 200 2.4 build. http://www.byuboyz.com/trex/Cherry2.4.htm

[Tom JM]

Thanks, I tried that earlier but it wouldn't open in my browser.
Working in yours?

[Cp]

You'll need to register and log in to see it.

[Tom JM]

Ya, finally did that after finding my way to the site, bit convoluted to find but I'm there.
Thanks

[strehl]

Hmm. I'm not registered but I could see it on my computer. I've had it bookmarked for a couple years.



Just checked and it works on my cell. Weird.

[Tom JM]

Guess they're getting picky, I'll wait till they activate me, if it's a no go I'll ask for help here.
Have all winter to build and I'm just curious about what it'll take to get my 2.0 to wake up vs. the cubic $$ for a drop on 2.5.
Thanks again

[Capt.Insane-o]

It takes a lot of work to get a 2.0 to run with a 2.5, they will never have the low end of a 2.5 but they will run up top. Like I said it is a lot of work and custom porting and parts. They do live much much longer in the high rpm range than a 2.5. My viper motor drank it's 1000th gallon of gas this summer and leak down has'nt got to 4% yet. It either idles, runs at 45-5000 or is well on it's way to the high 9's. But it took a Diamond crank, a set of highly worked rods, custom sleeves, some crazy porting, 190 psi of compression, some highly worked wiseco's, everything was cryo'd and an SVS to get there. And it will not work on a heavy boat.

A 2.5 is a much easier route. One thing, a crazy 2.0 has a wicked exhaust note.

[Tom JM]

That's one crazy motor there, must sound wicked, 190 psi - wow.
Ya, a 2.5 is the easy route but sometimes the easy route isn't the most gratifying
What about a good 2.4. lots of them out there at reasonable $$
Running an Allison RR, reasonably light lake boat, not used for drag just fun.

[Capt.Insane-o]

I'm not a big 2.4 fan unless you can find an early steel bore motor. Chrome and I did not get along lol.

[Tom JM]

Forgot about the 2.4 being chrome, I ruled that out so long ago I must've forgotten, guess I had a brain cramp.
The hole idea here is to build a high performance steel bore motor that will spin high and last.

[Capt.Insane-o]

It all depends on how much you want to spend as to how long it will last, first thing is eliminating as much of the resonance a motor has through balancing and tolerances, second controlling the heat in the motor and across the crown of the piston,bigger bores have a harder time diassapating heat acros the crowns. third of course is making sure it has the right stuff inside so it does'nt end up outside. Coatings are a good place to find reliability too, I have a family friend who works on the Cosworth F1 program who has sent me some samples of pretty cool stuff. I built ( several times ) a stroker, over bored 2.5 over the past two years and had hell to pay with some issues that a piston coating solved all together.

[Tom JM]

So it sounds like a 2.0 has some inherent benefits having smaller bore. That coupled with modern coatings and careful selection of stock parts could produce a reliable little screamer on a light boat. Obviously one has to spend the right money in the right places, why go to all the trouble otherwise. It's easy to spend huge on a motor, what I want to do is spend smart. Lots of smart people like T Rex and yourself have gone to a lot of trouble refining the build process during which time you've likely blown up more motors than I care to own, so what I want to learn is "where does the smart money go" and "what is un-necessary overkill"?
That's why I was asking about the "cherry build". I know it's an older build and some parts may be available now that weren't then but it's a good place to start.

On a side note. What do you know about mounting my 2.0 on a 2.5 one piece tuner plate and cooling issues. I've heard there may be some but can't get a definitive answer. Need the one piece to accommodate cable steering.

[Capt.Insane-o]

It depends what year and what plate etc . My motor lives happiest at 170-180 degrees at 20-25 psi water pressure. I've been using an old land and sea plate I cut the tuner off of and welded in the bosses to run a 260 tuner that has been ceramic coated on the inside. Which in the end probably makes no difference once a carbon layer forms on it.

[Tom JM]

Thanks, can't tell you much about year etc of the tuner / block right now.
Will be installing a single ram bracket with high pressure pump soon so the motor will be apart.
Will examine and take pics of the tuner then for further consultation.
To be continued .....