3 litre wolf efi crankcase injected 3 litre build

**Liberator*21** · 09-11-2012, 06:59 AM

Originally Posted by mrcrsr

gary, years ago i watched an lm2500 come apart, it wasn't pretty!! i think it was something like 2.5 million in damage if i remember correctly, wiped out the power turbine as well. hoping to put the powerhead on tomorrow nite. i'm thinking i'm going to bring the fuel pres from 45 to 55 psi and try to fire it once i calibrate the ignition timing and see what it does, i wonder how far off the fuel curve will be, i'm thinking the increase in fuel pressure will offset the differnce in moving the injectors into the crankcase, as they will now be seeing crankcase pressure, but also this engine should make alot more power then the old one, so i can see the demand for fuel increasing.

LOL.......yeah Charlie, it's never pretty when you've a motor that runs with thousands of rotating parts.

Did you get the message I left you on the "O" Ring width, if not its .097. Your project motor is finally gonna get some fuel an spark.....COOL !!!!!!! Sure wish I was closer to you as I love to get my hands on this kinda stuff. Please keep us all in the loop as you make progress cause this is way cool.......

**Stitch King** · 09-11-2012, 07:03 AM

Charlie,

I played with fuel pressure with limited success. Higher pressure led to real good things at higher RPM but because of the injector spray pattern I ran into issues with poor idle in gear when turning a high 30+ pitch prop.

If I remember, the old efi regulator (1999-2003 ish) would cut fuel pressure at idle (with vacuum) to keep the engine from loading up and then when you got on the throttle and vacuum was lost it cranked the pressure back up to spec.

If I remember correctly the engine seemed happy at about 50 PSI. This of course was with the Pink injectors. Yours might be different.

Here's a link to calculate the effect a 10 PSI bump in fuel pressure will have on fuel delivered.

http://www.witchhunter.com/injectorcalc1.php4

**Stitch King** · 09-11-2012, 07:05 AM

Originally Posted by Liberator*21

Sure wish I was closer to you as I love to get my hands on this kinda stuff.

You are retired...

Take I-75 south. There's a spare room here. Bring the boat. There's an empty spot in the garage for that too.

**Liberator*21** · 09-11-2012, 07:36 AM

Originally Posted by Stitch King

You are retired...

Take I-75 south. There's a spare room here. Bring the boat. There's an empty spot in the garage for that too.

LMAO.....thanks Ken, you make it sound way to easy. If it wasn't for the wife still working, I'd have been banging on your door along time ago.......

**Capt.Insane-o** · 09-12-2012, 04:19 AM

**mrcrsr** · 09-12-2012, 05:54 AM

here we go, all wired up

**mrcrsr** · 09-12-2012, 05:55 AM

**mrcrsr** · 09-12-2012, 05:56 AM

**mrcrsr** · 09-12-2012, 06:03 AM

i was able to reuse the msd wires i had made for the other 3 litre. does anyone know the tps wiring on the older 3 litres? the colors on the tps are black(ground), blue/red and blue/yellow- trying to figure out which wire is the 5v input and which is signal out, i'm thinking it is the blue/red is the 5v feed. thats the way i wired it unless someone knows. hoping to put the engine on tonite after work. thanks for all the help and suggestions, i'll try bumping up the fuel pres, as my inj time at idle was 3.1-3.3 ms, so i should still be able to drop that a lil. as far as the plane off problems, what would happen is the motor is totally responsive, but would only hit 5700-5900 rpm on plane off(while the prop was cavitating), the engine/computer thinks its under full load, and adds to much fuel. if i lean out the map the motor would rpm up over 6k, but them when you're running the boat on plane it would be too lean at these points, that's where i think the map sensor would come into play to show how much load is on the engine. we'll see, the old engine was pretty bad mechanically.

**MaDneSS** · 09-12-2012, 06:23 AM

Looks awesome!! does the 1" spacer do much on 3.0 motors? also why only 1"

**mrcrsr** · 09-12-2012, 06:28 AM

the spacer helps to add more torque and gives the air a chance to straighten out, almost like a tunnel ram effect. as far as why not add another, it is pretty tite under the cowling, even w/ the stock 300x stuff you can only add 1 spacer and its almost touching the cowling

**Liberator*21** · 09-12-2012, 06:33 AM

Charlie,

Send me your email address and I'll send you the Merc electrical manual for the early EFI's....

**mrcrsr** · 09-12-2012, 06:37 AM

i actually have the merc service manual for all the 3 litres, you can't figure out from the wiring diagram(or the troubleshooting guide) what the wires do. i pretty much need someone who knows or owns one of them to take a multimeter and check it. worse case i'll try it- if it doesn't work i'll have to change the wiring.

**MaDneSS** · 09-12-2012, 06:37 AM

Originally Posted by mrcrsr

the spacer helps to add more torque and gives the air a chance to straighten out, almost like a tunnel ram effect. as far as why not add another, it is pretty tite under the cowling, even w/ the stock 300x stuff you can only add 1 spacer and its almost touching the cowling

More torque?.... thought these 3l's are torque monsters allready, you must be mad!
Are you going to retain all the factory bleed pipes, what do they even do!? lol
Did you cut/stuff the front half on this motor?

**Stitch King** · 09-12-2012, 06:43 AM

Hey Charlie, Is your fuel pressure regulator Vacuum referenced? It looks like you have a vacuum line going to it unless my eyes are deceiving me.

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