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09-02-2014, 04:24 PM #46
Shaun (2.5_Stoker), I'll definitely let you know how this new foot throttle works. I've got one of the initial prototypes reserved and going into my boat when available.
As former GE guy, everything Gary touches is well-thought out and highly engineered. This new pedal will be no different.
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09-02-2014, 10:30 PM #47
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09-16-2014, 04:48 AM #48
DB,
Since you were the one to post the question of repairing an existing N-CONTROL foot throttle, I'd like to offer you a "FREE" roller track repair of your current unit. All I ask is that you pay for shipping to and from, then honestly comment on it once it's returned to you and you've had a chance to use it again. If your interested PM me and we'll set something up.
Thx
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09-16-2014, 04:54 AM #49
Added note:
In reply to someone who ask if the floor mount hole pattern is or will be the same as a "Hot Foot Pedal", originally I said yes, but after a long and hard look at the design it I can't really justify the extra material or weight to do so, so I'm sorry to say no it won't be.
There is no need to have such a large base plate (floor mount) with my unit. The Hot Foot type floor pedals requires it due to the very large return spring thereby naturally forcing you to exert more forward foot pressure. This pressure is spread out over a larger floor contact area, i.e., larger floor base plate/hole pattern.
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09-16-2014, 03:45 PM #50
Thanks Gary. You have a pm.
DB
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09-17-2014, 04:11 AM #51
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09-26-2014, 12:12 PM #52
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09-26-2014, 04:32 PM #53
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Looks nice. Is that track a machined from solid billet?
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09-26-2014, 06:11 PM #54
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09-26-2014, 07:00 PM #55
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Extruded material made to your specs, I guess you're planning on making and modding a lot of these!
Is that a stainless cap on top of the extrusion?
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09-27-2014, 05:45 AM #56
Yeah, having material extruded to custom spec's ain't cheap.....
, but your correct in your assumption, I do plan on making/rebuilding quite a few as the price and quality are far superior to the other guy's product and I guarantee it for life, you break it, send it back and I'll send you a new one, nobody can match that claim. At the top is an aluminum cable mounting block as this control is top loaded. The only Stainless steel used is the hardware, i.e. screws, washers, nuts and hinge. All screws are socket head, not screwdriver types, makes for a much more impressive look and easier to tighten hardware. The prototype design is currently being tested and abused as we speak in 3 boats, the actual design (may) change a little but not by much if any depending on testing results, here's a sneak pic of the actual prototype that's under going testing:
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09-27-2014, 09:21 AM #57
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Looks very nice. Best of luck with it. How much do expect them to sell for?
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09-27-2014, 12:46 PM #58
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09-29-2014, 11:46 PM #59
Hey, I like the fix.
I have a twin set up and one side worked well and the other would bind. So went the home engineering route.
I will show you how I modified mine. Works great, I can run the throttle with one finger.
I like the footpedal, but hated that whole cable pulley set up. I went old school. I took the peddle hinge assembly apart and inserted torsion springs at that the peddle. I cut a lever that gave me a better pull, while doing away with the pulley setup. I replaced the nylon roller with ABEC 11 roller blade bearings, they fit perfectly and are rebuild-able. I wish the original setup worked better.
I also through away the spring setup at the motor. I went old school back there as well. I installed a carburetor return spring back at the motor. There are a lot if places to mount from.
I also replaced the stock cable with a 33C. I love the whole set up.
I have plenty of adjustment with stops as well. I have been running it for almost two years and no issues at all.Last edited by jpf091959; 09-29-2014 at 11:52 PM.
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09-30-2014, 03:40 AM #60
That's a very impressive change out, looks great. Thanks for share'n. I had thought about the torsion spring too but decided to keep it simple as the torsion spring adds a little more complexity to the pedal and hinge, I'm try'n to keep cost down, but quality & reliability high and still be able to guarantee it for life.