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  1. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by Johnson808 View Post
    Lots of good thoughts and info here. My vision of this issue is starting to clear up.

    I loved the "totally uncontrollable".....and it called a "Predictor" comment, never thought of that, made me laugh!

    I do have a single cable on it right now but it is surprising fairly precise.

    It seems like we have most of the causal factors figured out, does anyone have any thoughts on solutions?

    *Do I toss a stock lower unit back on?
    *Definitely going to do something with the motor mounts
    *Should I grind off the trim tab if I keep the lower unit on?
    *Likely will continue trying different props
    *Have meant to get a water pressure gauge in the boat... What PSI limit 15 or 30?

    I am still hoping to get more speed out of it if I can. Not really sure why my speed aspect hasn't changed one bit after all of my tinkering; props, jackplate, lower unit, weight, etc.

    I am guessing I just still need to get the "right" prop on it.
    1st, get the steering fixed, properly adjusted dual cable or SeaStar syle Pro hyd.
    2nd Motor mounts.
    3rd Water press gauge, no less than 10psi at speed.

    Then start to play with props and gear cases, eng height, setback, etc.


    Dave
    1980 Cougar 19 tunnel,90 2.4L Bridgeport EFI in middle of restoration.
    1988 BAJA Sunsport 186, 96 225 Pro Max
    79 12' Auminum, 95 Merc 9.9
    RIP Stu
    "So many idiots, so few bullets"

  2. #17
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    With the age of your engine you probably need new engine mounts, but for the speeds you are travelling at you definately do not need solid mounts. Your wife and your dog probably won't appreciate the harshness and vibration that solid mounts send through the boat. The fellas are right about your steering though.

  3. #18
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    Jul 2004
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    a 200 powerhead, 28 chopper 1-2" down from pad and more setback. better steering, mounts, footthrottle, water pressure gauge kill switch and a life jacket.( your powerhead is really a 135)
    90 Vegas 89 200 78mph

  4. #19
    Join Date
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    Middle USA
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    the harshness and vibration that solid mounts send through the boat.
    Ive never understood this. I put solid mounts on my 1500 and barely notice a difference.
    L6fan57-88

  5. #20
    Join Date
    Apr 2001
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    Cardington Ohio
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    Been there, done that.
    Nose cones are a waist of time/money unless you are running your motor high enough to need the lower water pick up's.
    By increasing the length of the bullet you're now needing way more up trim to carry the bow. Now when it tries to chine walk, and you try to correct, due to the trim angle of the motor everything is an exaggeration. The motor is trying to make the boat chine walk every time you crank correction into the wheel.
    Lose the Cleaver too. As already stated, you want large, round ear props on that boat w/a lot of rake (angle the blades lean back/away from the motor).
    On the steering, it may feel precise on the trailer but it ain't at speed. Try and move the motor back and forth w/it on the trailer and see what happens. The most dangerous part is at speed the single cable is trying to bind which makes it difficult to correct for the chine walk.
    I had a 16' Checkmate w/an ancient 140 cross flow w/the low compression head gaskets on it and it ran 60 w/the motor on the board and a 24" Raker like it was on rails. One of the most fun boats to drive that I ever owned.
    The 80 MPH thing for the nose cones is a crock too. I installed them on two different 80 MPH boats that I owned. Absolutely destroyed the handling and efficiency of both boats and lost 3 MPH's on one of them. Boats flew the bow perfectly w/neutral trim w/o the cones and both required full up trim to do it after the cones.
    On your rig, bolt on either and over hub exhaust Merc Chopper or a through hub Raker and you'll eliminate 90% of your issues. Cleavers on boats like yours do about as much good as the nose cone.
    I'd rather be competitive w/junk I built in my garage than win w/stuff I bought.


    I refuse to allow common sense to interfere w/my boat buying decisions.


    Checkmate 16' 140 Johnson
    Hydrostream 17' Vector FrankenRude I
    Laser 480 (?) 21' w/GT 200
    Glastron Carlson Conquest w/XP 2.6
    Glastron Carlson CVX 20 w/XP 2.6
    24' Sonic w/twin 250 Johnsons
    24' Sonic w/twin 250 HO Johnsons
    19' STV River Rocket w/FrankenRude II
    Allison XR 2002 w/Frankenrude II
    Hydrostream 18' V-King w/Frankenrude II

  6. #21
    Join Date
    Apr 2004
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    CRYSTAL RIVER, FLA
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    In case ya missed it in post #18 make sure ya have and use a KILL SWITCH! Someone just had a steering arm break off so check yours too!
    "Where is Lee Harvey Oswald, Now that we really need him?"

  7. #22
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    Thanks again for all the info on this everyone!

    I have compiled a good list of to do's for my rig and have a some work ahead of me, but am very happy having a better direction and idea on the issue.

    Sidenote:
    Saturday - Outdoor Wedding (zero shade)
    Sunday - 3 hours of stand up ski racing (rough water)
    - 1 hour stand up freestyle practice & show
    - 1/2 hour wakeboarding run
    - 1 hour baking on beach

    All of this leads to one hell of a sore Monday at work.

  8. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by Johnson808 View Post
    Change #1 JackPlate:
    Before the installation of the jackplate is had very very minor chinewalking around 58-62mph.
    After jackplate install proper height was found there was ZERO chinewalk all the way up to 62mph. Oddly though no additional speed was gained still stuck at 62mph
    (GOOD)

    Change #2 Bob's LWP Nose Cone:
    ...... After the lower unit modifications this boat has been absolutely rediculous to drive it is honestly even hard to call what this thing is doing CHINEWALKING, ???
    Didn't walk before the nosecone. Walked after the nosecone. Somethings up with the cone. We have a Predictor. Bought it with a Bob's nosecone. Handled fine. Blew the case bought another used case with an ugly bullet nosecone. Handled the same with both.

  9. #24
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    you know what else is a nosecone moves the area before the pivot point for turning 6 " ahead so when you turn it wants to turn more and so on. that felt weird when i put my first cone on and was still down 3" 4" or so. dont notice it now that im up near even
    90 Vegas 89 200 78mph

  10. #25
    Join Date
    Apr 2001
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    Quote Originally Posted by 200VEGAS View Post
    you know what else is a nosecone moves the area before the pivot point for turning 6 " ahead so when you turn it wants to turn more
    Excellent point. Add excess trim to that and powey!
    I'd rather be competitive w/junk I built in my garage than win w/stuff I bought.


    I refuse to allow common sense to interfere w/my boat buying decisions.


    Checkmate 16' 140 Johnson
    Hydrostream 17' Vector FrankenRude I
    Laser 480 (?) 21' w/GT 200
    Glastron Carlson Conquest w/XP 2.6
    Glastron Carlson CVX 20 w/XP 2.6
    24' Sonic w/twin 250 Johnsons
    24' Sonic w/twin 250 HO Johnsons
    19' STV River Rocket w/FrankenRude II
    Allison XR 2002 w/Frankenrude II
    Hydrostream 18' V-King w/Frankenrude II

  11. #26
    Join Date
    Sep 2002
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    Loch Erin, Irish Hills Area, SE Michigan
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    Dual cable functions by applying a slight "push" preload to one cable, and a slight "pull" pro-load to the other, thus conpletely eliminating the slop from the gear teeth in the rack and pinion helm.

    Solid mounts removes the additional degree of "rubber slop" that exists between the steering system and the lower unit. The increased vibration is a small price to pay for better handing.

    The torque tab allows you to run the prop higher without resulting in a "crab-walking" condition where the gearcase would need to be run through the water at a slight angle to make the boat go straight. It doesn't just counter-act torque, it actually keeps the driveline straight when you're surfacing the prop.

    The zinc tab on the cav. plate does NOTHING onoce you're trimmed out above 50 mph. It has nothing to do with your problems.

    Here's what you get with solid mounts and dual cables, with all slop adjusted out...

    '89 Hydrostream Vegas XT, '90 Merc 2.4 Bridgeport PCU EFI
    My YouTube videos________My Flickr photo gallery
    http://www.facebook.com/profile.php?id=1706097519

  12. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by BigJohnson View Post
    Didn't walk before the nosecone. Walked after the nosecone. Somethings up with the cone. We have a Predictor. Bought it with a Bob's nosecone. Handled fine. Blew the case bought another used case with an ugly bullet nosecone. Handled the same with both.
    But...did that "ugly bullet nosecone" have an upper strut extension?

  13. #28
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    Less than a 1/4" play in the steering wheel. No one could drive a 60mph+boat without chime walk with a single cable system. True V bottom





  14. #29
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    May 2009
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    Myrtle Beach
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    I'm redoing a 16' Enticer hull right now. Mine is powered by a Suzuki DT140. As I tear this thing down for rebuild, I realize how wet and solid this boat is. Mine is an 88' model. What is it about yours that makes it so "light"? Have you weighed it? Thanks, Scott.

  15. #30
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    Same hull as yours I believe but mine is an open bow. I am trying to build mine light yet strong and waterproof.

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