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  1. #16
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    I'd try what Conrad said...(he lives and breathes old Mercs..Hows that Contender running now?).
    When running crank the lowspeed/idle adjustments a little richer..can't hurt. On using Deep Creep to start, way better than starting fluid, as D/C does have oil in it. Just sprayed some on the fingers and slippery. I'll have to try that. Still think the best bet is toss a electric enricher on it.

    On that box though, if you can disengage the shifting part out of the equasion, throttle only, you should have the same thing as the older box fast idle lever. Throttle and advance.

    One more thing I found out when we built my motor. Seems Thom (Dr Frankenmerc) didn't have much hard starting when he was breaking in the motor. I didnt at first, boat rigged now, then I did. WTF? Seems the Wally world primer bulb I put on, new, guess aint the best. If level, pumping it would squirt gas into the carbs, you could hear it, but not enough to blow the float seats open, get the carbs dripping. Guess bypassing (check valve) in the bulb? If I tilted the bulb up right, then it would pump up hard, and get gas dribbling out.

    I don't know if the fuel pumps on yours would be a problem or cause, just tossing stuff out here, might try new diaphrams in'em..can't hurt.

  2. #17
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    Yes, cold natured for sure. Almost impossible to start without fast idle setting. If you don't have it, you need to change to a control box with it.

    Been running these motors since 1969.

  3. #18
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    Update on starting issue

    I went over today to check out the Mercury and see if I could figure something out. I looked it over and thought about the operation of the motor. It has to have tight connections for the vacuum operation to function properly. After looking at the carbs and doing a few things I noticed a hose on the top of the carb running from side to side. This hose was pretty loose and wasn't even snug on the fitting. That was the bottom carb and also the carb above it was the same way. The hose was so loose it had no grip on the fitting and hence no strong vacuum connection there so whatever the function it isn't going to work very well with a sloppy fit. I looked around and found some hose on another boat and cut a few pieces to fit both carbs. Now they are nice and tight with no slop. So I thought lets see what happens. I went over and squeezed the crap out of the bulb again and spun her around for about 15-20 seconds. Nothing. I waited about 30 seconds and cranked her about 10 seconds and then she fired up and ran.





    I thought well maybe I just figured it out... All I can say is the last few days I have been cranking the hell out of that motor without any signs of it trying to do anything... Now on my second try she fired up and ran just fine. So tomorrow or the next day I am going to go back over and see what happens. If it starts like today or a but easier then I would say my vacuum loss from two worn out hoses was the culprit. I hope that was it because I want to have this thing start when I put her in the water and not sit there cranking the living crap out of it and running the battery down going nowhere. So I thought I would share that bit of info. Now I am anxious to see what happens the next time I go to start it. I'll let ya know what happens...


    Update today -> Well so much for the new hoses that were loose... I went over today and it was a bear to start as usual. I guess I'll just have to squeeze the living crap out of the primer bulb until I get an enricher installed. As hard as this thing is to start I will put the part on as soon as I get it...


    Nick

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    Last edited by Nickolas; 09-27-2011 at 04:52 PM. Reason: update

  4. #19
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    Merc went to the enricher valve for a reason. The l6 reed cages wear out and pump air bettwen the clys. They don't suck air good when old. Hard for a choke to work. If ya want I will send ya a enricher. You can drill the top carb for a fitting and run a hose to valve. A nutter hose to reed hose tube.

  5. #20
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    All good thoughts here..hope problem found. Still think a enrichner, is the way to go. I just bought one on Ebay, $25. And a suggestion, as stuff needed to come off, tap into the balance tube, kinda a pain. Like in the diagram posted. In a bit, I need to download the pic I just took, my "Red Green, more duct tape, style" easy way to fire a old stack. When I get the enrichner, I will simple tap into a fuel source, and run a tube into the bottom carb throat (no choke plate, bottom carb)....as what I will post, a pic, works fine for me, on cold start. Just a gas/oil mix squirt. More in a bit on that.
    Oh yeah, heres a vid, my buddy, Dr Frankenmerc, in the XS G3, which is NOT a XS block, just the wrap, but a worked over 115 Mariner block under. We punched off today, against a Tunnel, 140 Johnny, newer, crank HP. .."Seya"..2 people each boat, and when Thom comes back, and says .."its only a 115"..that just toasted yer ass! Lotta fun today, old school boats, big motors, "sleeper blocks, under wraps!" A link the vid, not today, but the "Docs ride", of many more rides he has, but this is his fave..

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gT2nP...ature=youtu.be

  6. #21
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    Heres a link, fuel enrichners, ebay

    http://motors.shop.ebay.com/i.html?_...&_kw=Enrichner

  7. #22
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    Heres a simple cold start fix, drill one hole electrics face plate, shove in a plastic tube..think refridge ice maker hose, 1/4", into bottom carb throat. Then just yank the faceplate off, squirt can premix in, motor tilted down...god shot premix, and then choke, high idle, hit the key for fired. Fires bottom carb, 2 cyl's easy then. Face plate back on, and go. I'll try the fuel enrichner the same way into the carb..separate switch motor to start the flow..shut off, twist the key..(I LIKE messing with stuff!).

    Anyway, yeah looks like crap, (needs Duct tape!)..but who cares as works fine, and covered anyway. Its the white tube, off the plate, going into the carb.

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    Last edited by Robby321; 09-24-2011 at 08:09 PM.

  8. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dave S View Post
    Merc went to the enricher valve for a reason. The l6 reed cages wear out and pump air bettwen the clys. They don't suck air good when old. Hard for a choke to work. If ya want I will send ya a enricher. You can drill the top carb for a fitting and run a hose to valve. A nutter hose to reed hose tube.
    Sure if you want to send one my way I'll make use of it. Thanks

  9. #24
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    The top carb main jet plug is the source.

  10. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dave S View Post
    Merc went to the enricher valve for a reason. The l6 reed cages wear out and pump air bettwen the clys. They don't suck air good when old. Hard for a choke to work. If ya want I will send ya a enricher. You can drill the top carb for a fitting and run a hose to valve. A nutter hose to reed hose tube.
    Dude, spot on, and giving one for free?..stand up person. See my post,#6...simple, but ya need to do some drilling/tapping, fittings "T'ed", into the balance tube. and never a cold start prob again. My stack, aint most the time a prob, but sometimes, and the squirt gas, into the bottom carb, cranked and full bulb first, good to go. Never do a dry start, couple cylinders..flood the carbs, pump the crap out the bulb to all...gas dripping, good to "key it"..
    Last edited by Robby321; 09-25-2011 at 02:47 PM.

  11. #26
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    HeeHee in the old daze we usta set the carbs loose so you could overcome the neddle/seat and get the carb to weep. Tilt down....yes. I think 120 Force and merc 50 has the same threads on the float bowle as the l6 jet cover. You can also put a T in the fuel line but then it has psi and easyer to flood. I can give a part away as I have much. Just to help a newbe.

  12. #27
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    SHAKE IT. as u r squeezing the primer bulb, w/ arrow up,after float bowls r filled, grab the rear of the hood-or the top of the hood, with one hand and shake the motor. with motor tilted down-shaking helps carb to overflow just a little more. enriching/helping to cold start. A 1971 Pipkorn trick. -th

  13. #28
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    HeeHee Shake it. Never heard that one. Used to work in a shop in NY..... Then moved on but kept up and said Hi. They had a guy bring in a wood racing tunnel with a T1 and cleaned the carbs but it still would not plane... WTF...... I don't like tunnels because I have seen them fly in strange ways. But I hoped in and started it up. Give it the gas swing the wheel back and forth so it breaks loose and it planes off. HeeHee they had not known how to break it loose.

  14. #29
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    Those little hoses from the carb top to the carb body are the infamous midrange economy circuit. Better known as the melt down the pistons because it's too lean circuit. The purpose is to lower the pressure in the float chamber effectively leaning the motor out during midrange operation. Plug them or remove the jet in the carb top (I prefer to plug the hose with a BB or cap off the carb body). I have a 1350 that is a bit cold blooded as well, I squeeze the primer bulb until I have a nice oil slick around the motor, give it some fast idle, hold the choke and go. With the newer control box that allows you to advance the throttle while leaving the motor in neutral, be sure you are not advancing it to the point where it opens the carbs. The idea is to simply get some timing advance and leave the throttle vanes closed.

    Good luck!

    Kirk S.


  15. #30
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    A strong battery helps too. If your cranking speed is slow, the fuel has a hard time getting to the back. The negative trim is a must.

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