Hard starting Merc 115

[Robby321]

Another thing to think of, is the 2 choke plates. Like said, wear out with age. If you have any air gap, there, pretty well useless. I asked, and said OK to do, THREE MERC IL6 old school wrenches, about that. Said OK to do a simple. The thing to do is get a small pin punch, and the side the carb, and tap the choke plate pivot boss, with a NOT a sledge hammer, but a small Ball Peen, tap the end, pivot, to bend the pivot pin/blade into the carb. Good seal. Also possible to shim the the plate, for a good seal. ALL, told me, it will not break off, "pot metal" style. Just go easy.

[Robby321]

This..."give it a shot of Deep Creep she will fire right up...".......Said here somewhere, if the right thread, will foul the plugs, or some how, gum up the float needles? Well, going into the carbs, the intake. Now, a good soak D/C, flooded until motor quits, DeCarb, is another story. Anyway, just did some experimenting here.
Grill lighter lit, sprayed a stream, NOT MIST, WD 40, and never fired the stream. Tried the Deep Creep, get some good fire the stream, at the fire point. Then "Starting fluid", spray mist.

BIG ball of fire!. And WHY, starting fluid is NEVER to be used, a 2 cycle reed valve motor, as combustion pressure, will destroy the reed petals. Fast blow back.The old saw of.."washes the oil off the cylinders", thinking BS, unless ya spray a 1/2 can in. Ya know what I mean here.

[Robby321]

And my old XS1500/Switzer, late 70's, was NEVER a problem, on pretty well instant fire, just choke, and never pumped the bulb, but changing tanks, (3.. 6 gallon, rear).

I still think, its the worn out plastic choke plates. PLUS, old "reeds",. too. But an enricher, will cure all that also.

[Mark75H]

Squeeze the bulb till tight, over flow not needed ... 40 years old powerhead has been rebuilt and carbs cleaned and new needles and seats, no significant wear on the choke plates or carb horns ... you are chasing red herrings there

[Nickolas]

This..."give it a shot of Deep Creep she will fire right up...".......Said here somewhere, if the right thread, will foul the plugs, or some how, gum up the float needles? Well, going into the carbs, the intake. Now, a good soak D/C, flooded until motor quits, DeCarb, is another story. Anyway, just did some experimenting here.
Grill lighter lit, sprayed a stream, NOT MIST, WD 40, and never fired the stream. Tried the Deep Creep, get some good fire the stream, at the fire point. Then "Starting fluid", spray mist.

BIG ball of fire!. And WHY, starting fluid is NEVER to be used, a 2 cycle reed valve motor, as combustion pressure, will destroy the reed petals. Fast blow back.The old saw of.."washes the oil off the cylinders", thinking BS, unless ya spray a 1/2 can in. Ya know what I mean here.

*You would not believe of how many people that tell me they use starting fluid to start their outboard two stroke motors. I look at them and say are you crazy or what and they don't have a clue. I go into the explanation and some listen and some don't. At least the last fellow I told he stood there with a look on his face and thought about it and said yes I can understand what your saying and It never crossed my mind. I'm glad you told me as I never gave it much thought. This was an older gentleman about 65 or so... Used to be a professional fisherman he said until it turned out to be more work like a job than fun so he gave it up. One of the few people that actually thought about it and acknowledged the fact that is wasn't a good idea to use anymore.

**Anyway not everyone agree's on certain topics and are stuck in their ways and some you can get through to. I myself will always listen to what someone has to say but I may or may not agree but any information is worth a listen to. You may hear something that could help you out in a big way that you never thought of. Thats why I asked about these Mercury motors since it is my first one. I don't have any issues with any other engine I own except this Mercury. She is very clean and has great compression but just the starting issue. It's no biggie really. Until I get that valve on I'll just squeeze the crap out of the primer ( which is new along with the hose and fittings ) I may mess with the choke flaps in time. I looked at then and there is a decent gap there so no seal for vacuum.*

*Anyway I don't know if you were trying to make a point in your post and if so I guess it went over my head and I didn't get it. Are you trying to say something about using Deep Creep as a starting fluid or... I'm not doing that anymore now I'm just squeezing the primer until it overflows gas out the carb for it's easier for now. But if I need to I will use it again to start the motor as it works great...

[Robby321]

If the last post was some, not seen,, Quoiting something, with the post, I can't figure it out. But, as up on the thread, know where ya coming from anyway.

I'm damn right on fast, way too high combustion pressure, pop a reed too easy. Never a 2STK start with "starting fluid". Maybe done in the past, yer old motor. Not known unless ya split the case, and look.

[Robby321]

Ya know what we might have not considered, the crap we get for "gas" now. Junk now damn sure aint.."Sunoco 260". Which knew always was just a number, No way octane. And gas done to do the motors, at the time, simple made to fire on them then, good gas.

And now, crap, no more lead, who knows what else, Ethanol in it..(search Ethanol E85 rides, cold temps, hard start). The old girl stacks, started fine, back the 70's. Today no diff, but the "gas"...........................?

[bestman53]

hello,
these small hoses on the carbs "midrange economy circuit", do you plug both ends of the fittings? (top of float bowl and carb). what are the pros and cons of having these hoses installed and connected? i have a 1979 L6 115hp.

[Robby321]

hello,
these small hoses on the carbs "midrange economy circuit", do you plug both ends of the fittings? (top of float bowl and carb). what are the pros and cons of having these hoses installed and connected? i have a 1979 L6 115hp.

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