460 Ford Build Advice

[Storz]

I am tinkering with the idea of rebuilding my 460 over the winter, its never been apart in its 35 years of service, that said there is really nothing "wrong" with it. Starts and idles great, modest power etc etc. I do think the bearings might be wearing though as my idle oil pressure when hot (125*) is around 10psi.

So...

Over the winter I am thinking of rebuilding it, with the intention of a slight power bump. Stock its rated at only 320hp - I'd like 500hp, and from the reseach I've been doing its not too much to ask for a pump gas 460ci motor.

It has the less than desierable D3VE heads, but with some head work they can support the power goals I have. I am currently running a tunnel ram with two 450 CFM holleys, whill this be enough for 500hp? I've read some are making that power with one 850CFM carb, so my thoughts are that my twin 450s (900CFM total) should do the trick. I am also currently running an MSD Ready to Run dizzy and coil, guessing this is also acceptable for the rebuild?

Will head work, and flat top pistons get me there?

Thanks

[HOTBOAT460]

I run a 460 ford with flat top pistons and c9ve heads with big valves and a 292 comp cam 525 hp at 5500 on pump gas.

[Storz]

I run a 460 ford with flat top pistons and c9ve heads with big valves and a 292 comp cam 525 hp at 5500 on pump gas.

Wow

Care to tell me more about your set up? Will exhaust for D3VE heads bolt up to C9VE heads?

[HOTBOAT460]

YES, they are 429 heads the cumbustion chamber is smaller. I had 2.30 intake and 1.79 exhaust vavles put in them same intake and exhaust manifolds They are lightly ported with flat top pistons that puts it somewhere between 9.5 and 10 to 1.

[waterslinger]

If you want the easy way to make 500+ HP buy a set of Super cobra jet heads. 1,700 to the door new in the box.
by the time you pay for a pro to port any stock head then buy stainless valves, have studs and guide plates installed you are right at that amount.

i have done several stroker 460's heads are where the power is. Pump mods are a must.

[njj502]

And get rid of the tunnel ram. They are usless unless you are going to spin monster RPM with it.

[HOTBOAT460]

I don't know what machine shops charge in other states but I personally have around $750 in mine studs , vavles, guide plates , the works.

[Spike Morelli]

Hey Storz!
I thought I'd add my 2 cents here as well. Certainly, if your oil pressure is too low, an engine rebuild may very well be in the cards for you. You hadn't mentioned if the rest of the engine was stock, ( oil pump, oil pan, rods, pistons, camshaft, etc).
I am employed by a well known engine and cylinder head shop, and, though I've never owned a 460, I am a boater, and knowlegeable, and have some observations for you.
I am assuming that you have a jet for propulsion. If you're not using it for racing only, and it's a pleasure boat, 5500 rpm is a good redline for a pumper. I agree with the gentileman about changing your intake from the tunnel ram. Boats are all about the motor's visuals, but that intake is for higher rpms than you need. ( They do look cool ).
I also agree with swapping out your "D3VE" open chamber smog heads, with "C9VE", or "D0VE" heads, which come with screw-in studs and guide plates. If you have "positive-stop" studs, with the shoulders, replace those with fully adjustable studs. All of your valves and parts will swap over to these heads, and manifolding bolt ups are identical.
Rebuild your engine with a good forged flat top piston ( no dish), this should put you around 10.1:1 . The other gentileman who suggested going with aftermarket heads has a valid point, as to cost, however, be carefull here. Aftermarket "Cobra-Jet" heads and similar large port heads may very well be TOO BIG for a jet application, and, while big on bragging rights, can be money thrown away if cam, compression, and rpm aren't where these heads shine. Some great flowing aftermarket heads have smaller ports than their factory hi-perf counterparts, which were too big for everything but all-out racing.
Same applies with the camshaft selection, be reasonable with how you are REALLY going to use your boat. Absolutely have everything balanced. Make sure the crank and rods are up to snuff. Have your engine builder set oil clearances ( my guess is .002" rods and mains), but ask 10 engine guys, you can sometimes get 10 different opinions, so go with someone you trust will take care of you.
Have your cam degreed-in, sometimes there are benefits to advancing or retarding the cam centerline in relation to tdc, it doesn't take that long to do ( we do it with an electronic, digital "Cam-Doctor" at work, very precise), and may help put useable power where you want it. If you don't have an increased capacity oil pan, now's the time, as well as a good pump, drive shaft, and pick-up. Use quality fasteners wherever possible.
I'm sure, like most people these days, your wallet will dictate the perameters of how far you go with it all, but don't be afraid to take your engine guy out to lunch and discuss all this with him. It may turn out to be the best value you evr got from a burger and fries and a coke! Spike

[HOTBOAT460]

That is about the best way to put it i agree totally.