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  1. #1
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    Pinning Your Carrier

    Seen this asked a bazillion times and never seen a "how to" done. Let me know if so and I will delete this one.

    Had to do the L/U's for the Sonic and after having to lay them out for the umpteenth time (never kept the spec's)I figured I'd do this.
    Use 1" X 1/4" X 20 flat head bolts with flat washers inside unit and nylok nuts. This needs to be a preventative maintenance item as I have lost them.

    #1, Is basic measurements. In a nut shell you're trying to center the bolts in the middle of the casting webbing of the carrier.

    <a href="http://s290.photobucket.com/albums/ll255/Instigatorspixs/?action=view&amp;current=pinningacarrier2.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll255/Instigatorspixs/pinningacarrier2.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>

    #2. Hole drilled with counter sink done also for the 1" flat head bolts.

    <a href="http://s290.photobucket.com/albums/ll255/Instigatorspixs/?action=view&amp;current=pinningacarrier3.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll255/Instigatorspixs/pinningacarrier3.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>

    #3. Counter sinking. I use the bolt head as the template. When it will go in hole bellow surface you're done.
    <a href="http://s290.photobucket.com/albums/ll255/Instigatorspixs/?action=view&amp;current=pinningacarrier7.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll255/Instigatorspixs/pinningacarrier7.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>

    #4 & #5. Drilling completed and holes painted to prevent corrosion.
    <a href="http://s290.photobucket.com/albums/ll255/Instigatorspixs/?action=view&amp;current=pinningacarrier5.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll255/Instigatorspixs/pinningacarrier5.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>

    <a href="http://s290.photobucket.com/albums/ll255/Instigatorspixs/?action=view&amp;current=pinningacarrier6.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll255/Instigatorspixs/pinningacarrier6.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>

    #6. Is finished project from inside view. Hope this helps.
    <a href="http://s290.photobucket.com/albums/ll255/Instigatorspixs/?action=view&amp;current=pinningacarrier8.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll255/Instigatorspixs/pinningacarrier8.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>
    I'd rather be competitive w/junk I built in my garage than win w/stuff I bought.


    I refuse to allow common sense to interfere w/my boat buying decisions.


    Checkmate 16' 140 Johnson
    Hydrostream 17' Vector FrankenRude I
    Laser 480 (?) 21' w/GT 200
    Glastron Carlson Conquest w/XP 2.6
    Glastron Carlson CVX 20 w/XP 2.6
    24' Sonic w/twin 250 Johnsons
    24' Sonic w/twin 250 HO Johnsons
    19' STV River Rocket w/FrankenRude II
    Allison XR 2002 w/Frankenrude II
    Hydrostream 18' V-King w/Frankenrude II

  2. #2
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    Thank you that is something that I have been thinking about doing, and your post with photos makes
    it much easier to understand how it done!

  3. #3
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    Sorry to ask. but what is this done for exactly? I see what you did, does that part have a history of coming loose?

  4. #4
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    It keeps it from spinning. Gary, the nylocks will melt and come off. Try star or lock washers & regular nuts.

    Ló fasz racing
    Joe Horvath

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gorilla0178 View Post
    Sorry to ask. but what is this done for exactly? I see what you did, does that part have a history of coming loose?
    Keeps the carrier from wobbling around and the wedges coming loose. If you have some of the exhaust relieved the nylocks won't melt. At least mine have not. I honestly don't see them doing it even withe exhaust passing through unless you have it dry stacked.

    I pinned mine just twice 180 degrees apart.

    Those who have not done this, it is a WHEN NOT AN IF, because it will come apart if you surface a high pitch prop and run the piss out of it.

    Gary, I don't remember ever seeing a thread with pictures and all. Nice job!
    Last edited by Forkin' Crazy; 07-23-2011 at 10:41 PM.

  6. #6
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    What happens when it comes loose, it looks like I'll be doing this in the near future also, seems like a easy preventitive fix.

  7. #7
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    Do it ASAP. The carrier will eventually back out and the pinion gear will loose proper mesh cause the gears to eat themselves. I promise you, it isn't pretty. I failed to do an earlier case with the case bolts.... with the keeper ring that kept the ring that captured the bolts.... the ring land in the case finally gave up. From what I understand the later cases are not as strong because of the wedges. Cost me about a grand to get a newer case, coned, tabbed, and pinned.

  8. #8
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    Can you drill and tap set screws instead of bolts that go all the way through, or the bolts better?

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gorilla0178 View Post
    Can you drill and tap set screws instead of bolts that go all the way through, or the bolts better?
    Won't last.
    I'd rather be competitive w/junk I built in my garage than win w/stuff I bought.


    I refuse to allow common sense to interfere w/my boat buying decisions.


    Checkmate 16' 140 Johnson
    Hydrostream 17' Vector FrankenRude I
    Laser 480 (?) 21' w/GT 200
    Glastron Carlson Conquest w/XP 2.6
    Glastron Carlson CVX 20 w/XP 2.6
    24' Sonic w/twin 250 Johnsons
    24' Sonic w/twin 250 HO Johnsons
    19' STV River Rocket w/FrankenRude II
    Allison XR 2002 w/Frankenrude II
    Hydrostream 18' V-King w/Frankenrude II

  10. #10
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    if you drill and tap for set screws they will eventually shear. The carrier still moves even with this modification. With the nuts you can maintain a level of tightness by checking them every once in awhile.

    tiger

  11. #11
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    I've tried many things w/these cases over the years. Many have worked, some have not. This method is the best I've seen specific to the carriers. The next step is to machine eccentric washers to even/spread out the clamp load of the bolts. As in my pix's (and how most do them) the nuts are actually only making contact on the their outer edges due to clamping against the radius of the I.D. of the carrier. The trick is to machine washer/spacers w/an outer radius equal to the carrier I.D. and and a flat top for the nut to torque against and the thickness of the webbing (approx. 1/2").
    I had prototypes to the machine shop but he need too many as a minimum run to be cost effective to make them.
    Have seen home made versions on the board before.
    You can make an OMC housing run pretty good if you sneak up on them and due your preventive maintenance as is required of all Hi Perf pcs.

    Here was my last attempt at a good OMC case for next to nothing. Extended skeg, blow out ring, larger torque tab etc. Reduced steering correction @ WFO by approx. 50% and best running OMC based case I ever ran.


    <a href="http://s290.photobucket.com/albums/ll255/Instigatorspixs/?action=view&amp;current=lwrunit.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll255/Instigatorspixs/lwrunit.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>
    I'd rather be competitive w/junk I built in my garage than win w/stuff I bought.


    I refuse to allow common sense to interfere w/my boat buying decisions.


    Checkmate 16' 140 Johnson
    Hydrostream 17' Vector FrankenRude I
    Laser 480 (?) 21' w/GT 200
    Glastron Carlson Conquest w/XP 2.6
    Glastron Carlson CVX 20 w/XP 2.6
    24' Sonic w/twin 250 Johnsons
    24' Sonic w/twin 250 HO Johnsons
    19' STV River Rocket w/FrankenRude II
    Allison XR 2002 w/Frankenrude II
    Hydrostream 18' V-King w/Frankenrude II

  12. #12
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    Gary, check over on byboyz. Aero had some. I think Acie Stringfield (sp) had some made over in Houston.... ?

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Forkin' Crazy View Post
    Gary, check over on byboyz. Aero had some. I think Acie Stringfield (sp) had some made over in Houston.... ?
    Aero is the one who gave me the samples way back when.
    I'd rather be competitive w/junk I built in my garage than win w/stuff I bought.


    I refuse to allow common sense to interfere w/my boat buying decisions.


    Checkmate 16' 140 Johnson
    Hydrostream 17' Vector FrankenRude I
    Laser 480 (?) 21' w/GT 200
    Glastron Carlson Conquest w/XP 2.6
    Glastron Carlson CVX 20 w/XP 2.6
    24' Sonic w/twin 250 Johnsons
    24' Sonic w/twin 250 HO Johnsons
    19' STV River Rocket w/FrankenRude II
    Allison XR 2002 w/Frankenrude II
    Hydrostream 18' V-King w/Frankenrude II

  14. #14
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    At the 1.4" back does that miss the o-ring or doesn't it matter if you drill through the o-ring?


    Ralph Musser
    27' Fountain Fever W/ 525SC
    22' Rapid Craft W/ Evinrude 300 V8 January 2009 BOAT OF THE MONTH SOLD
    24' Triton 240 Gold W/ Mercury 60
    14' Royalcraft W/ Evinrude 75 father/daughter project

  15. #15
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    I made some for Aero a couple of years ago.
    The ones I made were one piece,meaning all 4 washers were part of a ring that slipped in from the rear. The idea was that the ring,which fit snug inside the carrier AND the case would help to keep the case round.
    I dont know if the screws break or back off but I always seemed to loose the screw (and the fancy washer) in the 10 o'clock location.
    The aluminum ones are kinda bulky. They will work fine if all you use are over hub props and have open exhaust, The one I'm using now is made from stainless. Its much thinner,wont interfere with the prop hub and causes less exhaust restriction. They can all be made with a built in blowout ring.
    I've been using the stainless one for 2 years now and havent lost any screws yet
    the first 3pics are aluminum, the last 2 are stainless
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails csr1.jpg   csr2.jpg   csr3.jpg   lu1.JPG   lu2.JPG  

    limited skills

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