Rub Rail Question on a Liberator

[Liberator*21]

Rob,
The current rub rail insert is brand new and an exact sized replacement. I was told not to stretch it when putting into the aluminum channel. The new insert doesn't come out of the corners because I used silicone in the front corners of my tunnel hull to hold it in place and it's done a great job thus far. The problem is with the sides, when I tie up to the dock with fenders over the side or next to someone the slightest up & down movement pops the insert right out of the aluminum channel. Everytime that happens and I go to reinstall it, I end up with and extra couple of inches that I cut off.....5" extra so far, 3" one time and last week another 2".....Thx

[Dave Strong]

Gary, How big is this rub rail? ie. hieght, insert width...............?

Dave

[Liberator*21]

Dave, the aluminum channel is 3/4 high (outside). I got it from Dave at Liberator Boats, the fit is good in the channel but it's so soft and plyable it doesn't stay in very well. It's the right stuff because I compared it with the old. The old insert was hard as a rock and maybe that's all thats different between the two, harder stuff = less friction.

[Dave Strong]

Gary, don't know if this will help, but when I first got my Cougar the strip was forever coming out on the back 1/3 on stbd side sometimes from rubbing dock sometimes after 90mph+ runs. Must have put it back in 50 times, finally got it to stay.
If you look at the pic's where the arrows point those corners have to fit just right in the aluminum mldg, if a corner or edge is a hair rolled over out she comes. I was always trying to reinstall it after it sat in the sun and got soft and think the edges wouldn't fit perfect.
So I tried it on a 70deg day not in direct sunlight, can't remember if I lubed the rubber with silicone spray or dishsoap water mix. Got the rubber slippery like a greased pig and put the bottom edge in first then pushed the top half in with a plastic paddle for spreading windshield urathane, never came out again. Figure the mldg being a bit stiffer prevented any edge rolling and got it seated deeper in the aluminum mldg.
Go to a glass shop that does windshields and ask if they have an extra urathane paddle you can have or buy to prevent cutting the rubber. They are handy as hell for lots of things.
Mine is the one with the blue arrow, but your must be close just a bit bigger. Hope this helps I have felt your pain.

Dave

[Liberator*21]

Dave,

Really appreciate the info . My insert is so soft, that's where I think the problem is. The fit in the channel is great, but do to the softness it pulls out from the slightest friction. I used a modified window screen bead roller to install, worked great. I'm going to think about this over the winter months and I may just go with a solid aluminum rub rail and scrap the rubber insert altogether. Didn't really want to spend any $$$$ on something that doesn't increase performance, but ya gotta do what needs to be done.... There is a guy now that's working working on a protoype all billet flywheel for the 300x, it weighs 6 lbs, compared to 17 lbs stock , now that's worth spending some cash on..............

[Greg G]

Gary and Dave, this may be a dumb question but isn't the whole idea behind a "rub" rail for it to take rubbing at a dock without popping out? Is this a Taco product? That is very annoying to say the least and I am just wondering if the pliability of a given batch of inserts is the reason they do not stay inserted in the chanel. I have the same thing starting to happen on this Ultra 23XS and it is really a PITA.

[Liberator*21]

Greg,

As the name implies "RUB RAIL", your correct. I don't know who makes this insert, got it from Liberator Boats, it's the one they use on all there Liberators. It's super soft material. My old hard insert popped out every now and then, but this stuff will come out if you sneeze near it..............LOL. I think a solid aluminum rail is the way to go but the shipping costs will kill ya because of the long lengths it comes in..........oh well, ya gotta pay if ya wanna play.............

[RobF]

most likely taco makes the insert, they have profile photos on their site

it starts out soft and as it ages gets harder and harder

[Greg G]

Aluminum is not tough enough so I guess you are left with a SS insert only ?

[Liberator*21]

For S/Steel, now we're really talking some big $$$$$. I'll have to agree that S/Steel would be the ultimate way to go, but since there's always a fender between me and whatever I think aluminum would do just fine.

[Dave Strong]

For S/Steel, now we're really talking some big $$$$$. I'll have to agree that S/Steel would be the ultimate way to go, but since there's always a fender between me and whatever I think aluminum would do just fine.

And its not like your boat weighs alot, or leave it tied up in big winds.

Dave

[Liberator*21]

Ain't that the truth Dave, I baby the hell out of it. It never sit's in the water over night tied up to anything........fustration is a bitch !!!!!!!!!!!!.........LOL.

[Dave Strong]

Gary, you should see what it cost me to get rub rail to Canada. $400. total with the rails and insert around $140. rest was shipping costs.
Keep us posted on the flywheel.
Has you buddy got plans to do lightweight flywheels for 225 Pro Max's?

Dave

[Liberator*21]

Dave,
Ya, shipping can really be a mother at times and in this case, I agree it is !!!!!!

As for the flywheel, 300x wheels only at this stage, but I'll keep you posted if other offerings maybe considered.

I'm getting ready to mod my EFI system. Gonna remove the "weak" pump from the VST and run an external Walbro, but still use the VST chamber for a fuel bowl & fuel return. I'm going to mill a slot in the VST fuel pump chamber wall that will allow fuel to fill that area faster thereby increasing the total volume of the fuel available. Also gonna remove the fuel pressure regulator from the fuel rail and use a Aeromotive adjustable reg. All this will keep me from running a return line to the tank and still allow bleed fuel to drop into the VST and give me fuel pressure adjustability. The winter projects have begun...............