40 amp Stator...............

[rutro]

Bought a used stator off E-bay. Listed as a 9610A5 ............ it got here and the part number is 9610A9. Will this interchange with my 9610A5 on the old XR4?

[j_martin]

Yes. I believe both are dual regulator 40 amp.

How old is your XR4? Early ones were 16 amp.

[rutro]

Hey j_martin, I was hoping you might see this. Mine is the water cooled 40 amp, serial #0C108856 1989 model. I read somewhere they were interchangable but don't want any smoke when I change it. This is what started all this, see attached. When I checked the voltage on mine it was definatly low.

[j_martin]

If you're talking about low charge coil voltage as that tech tip indicates, then your stator is bad.

There are 2 versions of 40 amp. 1 uses a water cooled regulator and a single 40 amp coil. The other uses 2 20 amp regulators and 2 20 amp coils in the stator. (2 pair of yellow wires) They are not interchangeable. I used to be able to sort out the numbers with CDI's parts cross reference, but they "simplified" that scheme and left me clueless.

If your battery voltage is low, the regulator is shot, and the least expensive fix is to convert to dual regulator by changing a bunch of hardware, the stator, and the regulators.

hope it helps
John

[rutro]

J_Martin said;

If you're talking about low charge coil voltage as that tech tip indicates, then your stator is bad.

Yes, after finding the service bulletin I started thinking about all the fouled plugs and decided it needed to be checked. I built a DVA attachment, thanks Bill Rogers, and checked as per the service bulletin. The voltage never got to 180, it was in the high 160's to mid 170's and varried up and down. Nice to know after all these years. Glad you said CDI, that's where I read that. I down loaded one of their parts cross reference .pdf's a long time ago. This stator I just got, the A9, is a two yellow wire style so it will work. I noticed in the Serria catalog this year they offer a solid state regulator for the 40amp two wire system, says 16 or 40 and is a $100 bill and some change. Much better that the OEM reg.

[j_martin]

J_Martin said;



Yes, after finding the service bulletin I started thinking about all the fouled plugs and decided it needed to be checked. I built a DVA attachment, thanks Bill Rogers, and checked as per the service bulletin. The voltage never got to 180, it was in the high 160's to mid 170's and varried up and down. Nice to know after all these years. Glad you said CDI, that's where I read that. I down loaded one of their parts cross reference .pdf's a long time ago. This stator I just got, the A9, is a two yellow wire style so it will work. I noticed in the Serria catalog this year they offer a solid state regulator for the 40amp two wire system, says 16 or 40 and is a $100 bill and some change. Much better that the OEM reg.

1. How is your battery voltage; ie, is the voltage regulator working? If so, just put in the "new" stator and try it. If the voltage regulator is shorted, it could lower the output of the charge coils.

2. Another is loose mounting, or bad top bearing allowing the flywheel to contact the stator, lowering output. You can see physical evidence of that. Usually has more effect at high RPM than idle.

3. The Sierra VR you mentioned (18-5743) is for the dual coil 40 amp, which is actually 2 separate 20 amp systems. It will not work on a single coil 40 amp system. The Sierra 40 amp wet regulator (18-5824) is many hundreds in cost.

sorry
John

[rutro]

The serria part I was looking at was an 18-5741 but now it shows unavailavble........... oh well. So will I cook anything if I use a propane torch on that flywheel nut? It is presently an unmoveable object!! I bent my flywheel holder and pinched a blood hicky on the end of a good finger ...........

[j_martin]

I'd give it about a 2 second try with a 1/2 inch impact wrench. Then I'd go ahead and heat it. It should be down about 100 ft/lbs, but some ace (spelled with a double s) might have locktited it, in which case heat is the only way it'll come off. It'll FU the half high nylock nut, so plan to get a new one.

You didn't answer questions about battery voltage, and such. Do that before you tear it down.

I think the 5741 was the 5 wire 20 amp. 5743 is the 6 wire. Better ground, direct replacement.

hope it helps
John

[j_martin]

I replaced the 16 amp system on my clamshell 1988 XR4 with a 40 amp dual regulator setup. I made a mounting plate that goes on top where the "advance" module used to live to mount the 2 regulators. Flywheel cover doesn't fit under the cowl, but everything else does. One 20 amp system charges the starting battery, and the other deals with the trolling motor batteries.

[rutro]

I've been working on this thing for a while now. Battery is fully charged voltage is good, reg has been replaced and out put is nominal. Everything I can and did check is within specs except the output on the charge coils.... that's why I'm wrestling with this flywheel!!!

[j_martin]

Go fer it. Your best bet is a big band wrench and a long breaker bar. If it doesn't crack loose at about 200 ft/lb, then assume it's loktite red and heat it. Best bet would be to use a map torch. Propane might work, but it's slow, which isn't good in this case.

I just got called out to do some actual work. be back in a few hours.

John

[rutro]

I backed up and reorganized on the flywheel holder, suthern'ingunerin, a peice of 1" angle iron. Drilled it so it fit the bolts holding the starter rope clips on top and left it two and a half feet long. Glad there was no locktite, almost strained ol'Stanleys chili. All I like now is torqueing the flywheel nut back down, had to have a timeout first though. Hope I don't have to did this again anytime soon..............