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  1. #16
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    Well made some progress today. Remade my floor frame out of standard 2x4 douglas fir. Layed down some fiberglass mat from tramsom to bow and glassed it down. Then installed my floor frame work and with fiberglass cloth glassed all that down. Going to run out and get some ply for the floor and try to prep that for tomorrow. I want to cut it to fit then give the ply a full skim coat of resin to seal it then I would like to install it and glass it in. In the end I want to paint the inside of the hull black so I dyed the resin to get a head start.

    After all that got a chance to play also.

    Also got some great info on powering this boat from a fellow member. Thanks again to all that has helped. As a newbie you have all helped me get this far.

    Thanks




  2. #17
    Join Date
    Jun 2001
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    West Haven, CT
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    Hopefully you put some weep holes in the frames on each side of the stringer to let the water drain to the transom area.

  3. #18
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    Yup that I did do. I found it much eaisier to glass over them and now I have gone back with my angle die grinder and cleared them up nice.

    My plan is to get a peice os Stainless bent for the transon for extra strenght. My transom is solid but shold I brace the inside of the transom also??

  4. #19
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
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    Puget Sound, WA
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    Run a 2CYL 50 Rude. 15 SS. My take, is a good 2 blade SS cup prop, will spin the motor into the power band..(like my avatar 135 Flatty), and feather the throttle a punch, and when grabs, it takes off. Pretty solid boats, but could be a handful until figured out. If a porpoise prob, shove a couple ""Rose garden, "Tube Sand,", up in the bow..any Home Depot..scary little boats, but forgiving...go for it!

  5. #20
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
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    Quote Originally Posted by tj309 View Post
    you must use a 15" shaft motor. Back in the 70's a standard shaft motor was 15" and long shaft was 20". Now the standard is 20" and unless you are buying a small fishing motor you cannot get a motor of decent size in a 15" shaft.
    Theres plenty of old 15 inch mids still out there, any old motors, or new....just gotta look/ask/search...(I wonder what that pup would do, with a old Rude "Stinger", 3cyl 75!)..as had an old 13 foot Allison, ran a 70 3 cyl Merc, against them Stingers! But think a bit too much, the GW!

  6. #21
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Location
    NE Alabama - Weiss Lake
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    Yea a 15" Stinger would be about as far as you could go with a 10' GW Invader I think. What a fun small inexpensive play toy a GW is. I wish I still had mine.
    TJ309
    Older 17 foot Laser / 2.5L Merc 245 Racer
    1993 Speedster 13 / 2019 Merc 60 play boat
    2020 Lowe 24' Pontoon boat / 250hp Merc. 51mph!
    72 Hydrodyne bubbledeck undergoing keel up restoration
    2 Jetski's

  7. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by tj309 View Post
    Yea a 15" Stinger would be about as far as you could go with a 10' GW Invader I think. What a fun small inexpensive play toy a GW is. I wish I still had mine.

  8. #23
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
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    I have a ten foot invader with a long shaft 50hp force engine. I couldn't find any short shaft engines. I jacked up the engine 3.5 inches with bigger plates so that it would be pretty much like having a short shaft motor. However, I can only get it up to 27 mph. It seems as if the nose is going down and plowing to much. Looking to get it in the 40mph-50mph. Any suggestions.

  9. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by flavio mendez View Post
    I have a ten foot invader with a long shaft 50hp force engine. I couldn't find any short shaft engines. I jacked up the engine 3.5 inches with bigger plates so that it would be pretty much like having a short shaft motor. However, I can only get it up to 27 mph. It seems as if the nose is going down and plowing to much. Looking to get it in the 40mph-50mph. Any suggestions.
    Ya got a sick Force, probably ING problems, WELL KNOWN, without an upgrade. What year? OR?..its a 25 inch shaft"..(many made, for deep V 15/17 foot Bayliners). Guy here has 4 seater, 14 foot, old runabout, with a old 50 Force..does way in the low 30's, loaded. Without a pic, yer motor/prop, and the hull line, we spitting in the wind here..(and what prop pitch?). Need details..
    Last edited by Robby321; 08-22-2010 at 12:56 AM.

  10. #25
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    It seems as if the nose is going down and plowing to much.

    Trim it out?..(damn, a nose heavy Invader?..NEVER HEARD OF THAT!)
    Last edited by Robby321; 08-22-2010 at 12:56 AM.

  11. #26
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    Aug 2010
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    Well, before I put fins on the motor the nose would go way up and would never get on plane unless you pretty much layed on the nose of the boat while driving. But once it finally got on plane the nose went way down.

  12. #27
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    Thanks, your right it's a 25 inch shaft. I need to jack up the motor another 4 inches

  13. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by flavio mendez View Post
    Thanks, your right it's a 25 inch shaft. I need to jack up the motor another 4 inches
    Thats what I thought, as so many Force 50's, 85, 125's, on Bayliners, which were VERY deep V'ed..and 25 shaft(I have a 88 20 foot Cuddy, 125 Force, 25 inch. Its the dogs boat, and my all around anything boat). What yer gonna have to do, is either a jack plate, or rebuild the transom up, glass it in solid, and add a sheet of Aluminum plate, cover the back, and another "lip, into the wet well. Heres a pic, my Flatty, getting built again, and you can see where the "plate" goes.

    .Attachment 214787

  14. #29
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
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    Lorain, Ohio
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    Just find the motor that you want, and if it happens to be a 20" just get a manual jackplate......they seem to sell pretty cheap on ebay, and this site. My brother had a black 10 footer with a 50 4 cyl merc. It seemed to do low 40's .

  15. #30
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    Btw, it looks good, and you might want to keep some cheap life jackets in the bow for floatation in case you sink it.

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