Can hotfoot be out of adjustment?

[xb03fs]

Do you have to do a link and sync to adjust hotfoot?
Is 1/8" of movement to the trottle stop a lot of performance?

Can the hotfoot be adjusted independently?

[zatchmo]

There should be a full throttle stop on the hotfoot you can adjust without changing anything on your motor's timing and throttle arms, if that's what you're asking.

[Raceman]

I'm not sure what "1/8 to the throttle stop a lot of performance" means, but you should mash the throttle wide open and make sure the carbs or injectors (whichever the case may be) are full open and THEN tighten the stop on the hotfoot to that point. The adjustment for wide open throttle should be with the cable.

[Rodney Nance]

What everyone else has posted is correct. The thing is to be sure you are WFO with what ever induction system you have. BUT The main! main! thing is to be sure the throttle stop is the hot foot and not the linkage. In the heat of battle when you mash it harder than when you did in testing you will let off the pedal and the motor will keep accelerating. Take it from someone that knows. When the linkage goes past center it wont come back no matter how hard you are pulling back on the throttle.

[xb03fs]

Thanks guys, going to have it checked out today. I changed the ecu and a buddy is going to help me weather permitting, I was still not getting extra revs which concerned me.

[Forkin' Crazy]

Great advise!!! I bet that made for a scarey ride!!!

What everyone else has posted is correct. The thing is to be sure you are WFO with what ever induction system you have. BUT The main! main! thing is to be sure the throttle stop is the hot foot and not the linkage. In the heat of battle when you mash it harder than when you did in testing you will let off the pedal and the motor will keep accelerating. Take it from someone that knows. When the linkage goes past center it wont come back no matter how hard you are pulling back on the throttle.

[Jay Smith]

Sure it can, on Merc EFI engines there are 2 stops located on the engine itself one for the idle and the other for WOT. The Hot Foot can be set so that it is contacting it's stop before the one at the motor has reached its peak "throw" distance not giving the motor full throttle air posistion. As others said make sure that BOTH stops at WOT have allowed your air induction devise either on carb butterflies , throttle blade etc are in syn and wide open to correspond with the contact points of both the wot stop at the motor and the wot point at the hot foot. I have witnessed when the hot foot is set to have a farther throw span than the wot stop at the block your foot strength WILL snap the fragile boss off at the wot stop at the block. I strive to adjust where they both hit with full air flow at the exact same time or the hot foot contacts its WOT stop a "scoach" sooner than the block stop to protect the block parts...

Good luck,
Jay

[xb03fs]

Well the hotfoot was way off, the butterfies were only opening 2/3 to maybe 3/4. Maybe this Allison will go over low to mid 70s with a 200 2.5

Will this affect holeshot or just WOT performance

Also I found 3 wires unplug I will be posting pictures in a new thread to see. Two of them look to go together but it may be where I had the mechanic unplug the idle control module, if not I need to plug it in

[altec7777]

I know this is a super old post but how would I go about syncing the pedal and the throttle linkage? I'm experiencing the same issue... Only getting 5k on a laser 380, 120 compression across the board, 24 pitch 2.4 200. Switched out coils, wires, replaced all fuel lines, and getting good spark.

I should add im premixing with all modules removed.

[rock]

If you are coming up short at the motor adjust the stop on the hotfoot to allow for more travel. Make sure the timing arm is hitting throttle stop at motor with throttle cable unhooked before you loosen anything.

Rock

[Krazymaan]

I'll unhook the hotfoot from the throttle arm and move the throttle arm by hand to make sure the throttle plate(s) are opening 100% just to make sure its not the motor side linkage. Then I will put the pedal to the metal with it not connected to the pivot arm. But I will check if the cable connections lines up so i have a good place to start, then go from there.

[altec7777]

Yeah, had a chance to check everything out. So far everything looking correct. Throttle arm hitting the stopper on the block, butterflies opening fully, fuel lines replaced, coils, wires, plugs, all replaced as well. I guess I'm taking carbs apart next?

[Krazymaan]

It could be something simple like a bad plug or two. Or timing is off a bit.