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Thread: coating for aluminum
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07-06-2010, 03:13 PM #15000 RPM
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coating for aluminum
hello, i seem to remember something about a coating for a riveted aluminum hull that sealed up the inside. i cant seem to find it, does anyone know where it might hide?
also im thinking of using heavy duty pop rivets (closed sealing rivets, 1100 psi tensile strength)
ive got about 400 rivets to put in and about half of them dont have good access from the inside due to the additional structure that was added to the boat last year.
ive used these above the water line with good results,
mainly just looking for confirmation that they will do ok on the bottom @ 60 mph.
thanks in advance,
jerry
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07-06-2010, 03:21 PM #2
It's called GluVit... 2 part flexible epoxy.. 2 years in my Tinny now and not a single leak. After a lot of debate over closed end rivets vs a bucked rivet I went with the bucked rivets. Like you, I had a lot of tight places to get into but I managed to make backers and twist a few of my buddies arms and got it done. I've since talked to others that went the closed end blind rivet way and they've all got leaks.
Steve Schefer
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07-06-2010, 03:49 PM #3
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07-09-2010, 01:14 PM #45000 RPM
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since ive never done the "bucking rivets", i must ask a silly question. is it ok to back up the rivet on the inside and nail the head on the outside?
if so i think i could get most of them.
due to reinforcing the hull last year (all welded) i have about a hundred rivets that cant even be seen without a mirror
i have just over 400 rivets to put in.
i really appreciate all the help. jerry
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07-09-2010, 01:51 PM #5
Just guessing here Jerry but I am going to say no, if its any thing like when we change sled tunnels and add renforcments. Have you got some scrap aluminum you can try and duplicate the hull and see if it will work hammering them as you would like to do it??
I had a rivit tool for my air hammer that fit the rivit heads perfect but still just made a mess, wanted to slip off the head and just couldn't get the rivit tight.
Best of luck
Dave
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07-09-2010, 06:09 PM #6
Jerry, is it safe to assume that since you've welded on this, it isn't a production boat like a StarCraft or a Lund. The production boats all use tempered aluminum that has a really nasty habit of cracking if you weld it.
If you're really stumped on how to fix this, give Phil Taylor at JetStream Concepts a call. He's in Yuba City, Ca. His website is http://www.jetstreamgroup.net/?lang=en&sub=home
Contact info is on the sight. I've done a lot of Tinny work and when I can't figure it out, I take it to Phil. He's pretty well known in the industry as one of the best there is. The work he's done for me has been nothing short of miracles. Kind of funny though, the Aluminum Recycle place is just around the corner from his shop.. If he can't fix it, you don't have far to goSteve Schefer
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07-09-2010, 06:25 PM #75000 RPM
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jerry
what type of boat are you trying to repair? there are a few people around here that still have those riveted boats. seems to me when they do damage to them they beat the dent out wled up the braces qand fill the rivet holes by welding them closed
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07-09-2010, 06:38 PM #85000 RPM
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hi steve, it was a production rig, a 22ft cuddy cabin by sylvan in fact. and yes ive done a pretty fair bit of welding on her. yes it has had a nasty habit of cracking, ive had to refine my aluminum welding techniques a bit to prevent it.
my long term goal here isnt just to make this old tub perform way beyond what it was built to do,( ive already done that).
but rather i intend to use this boat as a learning /proving boat.
then when it performs like i believe it should i will build my own hull from scratch.
ive got most of the details worked out to that end.
back to the present, last time out she did 55 mph with the forefoot of the bow pushing 4 to 6 inches of water.
my center of gravity is only 6 feet from the transom with me in it.
i figure when i get rid of this hook, ill have the boat that i really wanted, then ill start building the new one.
thanks for the contact info. always good to have an expert in the address book
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07-09-2010, 06:41 PM #9
Jerry, do you know the trick of sooting with Acetlyne?
Steve Schefer
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07-09-2010, 06:54 PM #105000 RPM
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yes , it helps alot it you use it as a temp guage.
here is a question that will be worth alot of money to me to solve, completely unrelated to boats tho.
i need to bend 2" aluminum square tubing without and distortion of the inside diminsions. it relates to a system that i designed and patented.
ive already got a roll bender, but it gives me some distortion and i have an object that runs inside with only .020 of cleareance.
right now my curved pieces have to be hulled out of solid mat. but if i could ever find a way to bend the tubing without distorting the i.d. i would be able to pass the savings on to my customers.
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07-09-2010, 06:59 PM #115000 RPM
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steve
wasnt trying to mess your thread up.just wanting gain a little knowledge..and let you know how we fix our rivets
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07-09-2010, 07:02 PM #125000 RPM
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any and all responce (s) are welcome. and yes i have used that method to repair concetrated areas, however this area that im woking now involves appr. 440 rivets.
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07-09-2010, 07:07 PM #13
Ken, no problem, I got what you were saying. I've done a lot of tinny work and that method only works on non-production hand builts. One of the reasons they rivet the production boats is because they flex so badly. The rivets are more forgiving than welding. The darn stuff temper cracks in a heartbeat. I can weld it now that I have a new AC/DC Tig. Phil Taylor bailed me out a couple of times before I got it though.
Steve Schefer
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07-09-2010, 07:27 PM #145000 RPM
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07-10-2010, 01:21 AM #155000 RPM
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id sure luv to give this tub the same treatment. where could i get a boat this size powder coated?
about what would it cost?