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  1. #16
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    Dave did you do something to strengthen the hull?
    And a OT question. Did you move your fuel tank?
    I dont want to mave any weight back in the boat but the fuel tank could affect balance a lot depending on how much fuel I have left in the tank.

  2. #17
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    Apr 2009
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    clermont fl.
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    that's funny that u asked about strengthening the hull. i always thought Glastrons were pretty tough boats. i did not strengthen the hull, but i'm thinking this winter i most likely will, it is definately thin on the bottom, the light weight is nice for speed, but i'm also going to do some crusing with it. haven't decided yet how i'm going to do the bottom. as far as the gas tank, mine is as far back as i could get it, but that is the way i wanted it. for skiing and crusing around, u could put in the front. that would also help plane the boat quicker. my boat was gutted when i got it, but i believe the tank was in the front originally. the fuel fill was in the front deck.

  3. #18
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    These boats have bow mounted fuel tank from the factory but the original fuel line is a thin copper pipe to a connection below the splashwell and fuel hose from there to the motor.
    I belive the motor will run lean if I leave it this way so I will build a recirculating catch tank with an electric fuel pump that will be mounted in the rear.

    What is the weight of the merc?

  4. #19
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    How did your boat perform Dave?
    Any pics of it finnished?
    Winter are melting away fast here so in a couple of weeks I will start with the boat again if I can find the time.

    The trailers here in sweden have wheels and rollers instead of bunks so I think my hull have a hook because of this, is there supposed to be a hook in these hulls or should I try to make it flat?

  5. #20
    Join Date
    Nov 2003
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    Portsmouth VA
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    I did this to a CV16 many years ago. I cut the floor out and cored the hull, about 2' out from the centerlins and 5' forward from the transom. I left the bottom original, round keel, no strake extensions, and ran mid-60s with a modified 1973 135 Johnson. The boat picked up about 5 mph and became driveable, no more porpoising. Removing the windshield was worth a mile or two, but it ruined the looks of the boat. The hull skin on mine was thin enough to flex at high speed, only had a 2x6 keel and no other structure. I always wanted to do one with a Merc 2L or 2.4L. Done right, it would be a cool boat! Post some pictures!
    18 Talon/2.4 carb SOLD
    26 Deck Boat/250 Merc

  6. #21
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    During the test run last spring it felt like the hull where flexing a bit.
    I have another boat that is build like a tank, wery thick glass and very heavy, that boat feels way more solid in small wakes and chop.

    I was thinking about reinforce the hull with thicker stringers made of divinycell and maybe one center stringer.
    Lots of people here in scandinavia have had great results with pvc-piping (for electrical cables in buildings) glassed to the hull for strength, I was thinking of doing this to the area in front of the windshield so I can stand on it.

    I think adding core to the hull is a little over my level.
    This is my first boat project, what materials are suitable for a core?

  7. #22
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    Before the days of core, we would split mailing tubes lengthwise and glass them in for strength. The tube added little or nothing but gave shape to the lay-up, such as the PVC pipe you mention would do for the deck stiffening. We used balsa core then, but there are more modern materials today. However, we were beginners and the balsa was cheap and easy to work with. It also did exactly what we were looking for.
    18 Talon/2.4 carb SOLD
    26 Deck Boat/250 Merc

  8. #23
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    Aug 2018
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    Mineola, TX
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    Quote Originally Posted by TahitiDave View Post
    Attachment 211762Attachment 211761Attachment 211760Attachment 211758here's a couple pics in primer and a couple of the final paint, hope it helps u out! just made another test run last night with it after some more adjustments and was very happy with it. still haven't had a GPS in it but i'll let u know. Dave
    Dave I'm digging this post up from way back in the past but I'm very interested in how your CVX performed after all the pad modifications, and some info in how you built the pad u like that. Possibly some measurements. But any info at all would be very helpful. I'm in the process of rebuilding my '78 CVX 16 to rig my 200hp 2.5

  9. #24
    Join Date
    Apr 2001
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    Carrollton, Tx
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    LetsBoat, I had a 79 CVX 16, moved from a Merc 115 to a Johnson 200 Xflow, 21 Chopper, boxed the transom in and no Gel cracks in the splash well. That worked out well but I found a crack in the Gel where the sole/floor meets the chine after awhile. About 3 feet long on the Stb. side below the drivers seat back. In Rockport Tx the Ski Basin was about a 1/4 mile long island 30 yards across. The rules are you went counter clockwise and I don't know if that and the lack of a core was the problem or the power jump contributed. Probably all of it.
    Topped out about 68 and pull your arms off. 3 coils of rope to dry start with the 115, didn't need any with the 200. I did have transom wedges on the V-6.
    My point is keep an eye on that area if you don't core it. 40 years ago I didn't know they weren't cored. It's a fun boat, needs a ski pylon.
    I'd like to know how these bouts ran out too, did you get the V-6 on yours?
    Robert Jackson

    1991 Voyager XT 250 HPDI

  10. Likes LetsBoat liked this post
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