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  1. #1
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    ride plate set up

    I just want to make sure that i am doing things right. I need to set my ride plate. I am going take a straight edge and put it on the bottom and set the plate level with the bottom of the boat. Is this right?
    Trimmer & Pinner

  2. #2
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    Quote Originally Posted by nerve damage View Post
    I just want to make sure that i am doing things right. I need to set my ride plate. I am going take a straight edge and put it on the bottom and set the plate level with the bottom of the boat. Is this right?
    this is a good place to start some will go 1-2 degrees up. the only way to find your sweet spot for your boat is to take timed runs and experiment with the degrees, you will find small gains in small adjustments.

  3. #3
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    Under 70 mph, gains will be better holeshot-holds the nose down better on launch. Will ride in the rough stuff a bit better too. Most peeps start out at 4 deg. up from level, as the water at speed behind the hull usually comes up at about that angle at 70 mph or so, even quicker at slower speeds. Ride plates when correctly set on a fast boat actually cause a vacuum beneath them at high speeds and lift the bow. The faster the boat the more pronounced the "V" shaped cavitation burn will be on the underside of the plate. TIMINATOR

  4. #4
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    Ok so i went with 2 degrees up and the boat started porpoising at 80. It has never done this before but the boat has never gone this fast before, there is still throtle left over. witch way sould i go up more or down. I do have a place diverter and all was good till 80 but it took me by surpries and i have not had a chace to go back out sense.
    Trimmer & Pinner

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by nerve damage View Post
    Ok so i went with 2 degrees up and the boat started porpoising at 80. It has never done this before but the boat has never gone this fast before, there is still throtle left over. witch way sould i go up more or down. I do have a place diverter and all was good till 80 but it took me by surpries and i have not had a chace to go back out sense.
    Probably you don't need as much "up-divertor" as before, start there and explore all combos before any more changes. Only when you have figured out what it wants now, can we recomend where to go next. The higher speed is encouraging. TIMINATOR

  6. #6
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    To far down can get the back end to loose at 90 +.
    And that gullwing can get wild on ya,be safe.
    Do ya have a droop ?
    if so ya may not need it with good HP.can make it cary the bow to high.
    2 deg. on the ride plate is a good #
    What deg. is the pump set in the boat ? Go up with nozzel(div.) 1 deg more than pump is set,this will be a good place to start.
    Make 1 change at a time,Let us know how she does sounds like it going to be a good runner !!!

  7. #7
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    Thanks RLP & Timinator

    She does not have a droop on it.I do have a hydrualic place driverter on it witch i am starting to under stand may be a bad thing to have on something that i am trying to make fast.As for the pump angle i do not know what angle it is set at can you tell me if or where to measure it when its altoghter or if that is even possiable to do.
    Trimmer & Pinner

  8. #8
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    Diverter is good, you will just have to learn it. The poorer the boat is designed, powered or set-up, the more you will need the divertor, as you get it dialed in closer, you will find yourself ignoreing it more. It is a great tool and set-up aid, listen to what it tells you. The more you experiment, the more you will learn. BUT ONLY CHANGE ONE THING AT A TIME!!!!! Every time you change somthing, make a note of what it did and did not do. As the setup changes, so will the rest of the changes. Sounds like a lot of work, but my 21 Daytona went from 82-82 mph to over 101 mph with pump changes alone, that was after I had tuned the motor and had enough HP to do what I wanted. Originally had to start out with the divertor full down for max launch, bring it up as it was gaining speed, to waay too high to get the hull to work, and then lower it at about 85+, or it would go no faster, then with all of the changes done over a full summer(here in Phoenix we boat most of the year). When all was well after about 8 months of playing with it, I could leave the divertor at the top speed position and almost never changed it unless I wanted to roost it. Have patience. Keep in mind at that time I had about 30 years of setup and boat work under my belt. The guys that only find a few mph from setup are not exploreing everything, and in every combination. No two identical hulls react in the exact same way, and may want different setups. Most companies had more than one mold for the same hull, more than one employee, and molds distort or were improved, or ruined over time. TIMINATOR

  9. #9
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    Sounds like a lot of work, but my 21 Daytona went from 82-82 mph to over 101 mph with pump changes alone, that was after I had tuned the motor and had enough HP to do what I wanted.

    Thanks Tminator
    When you speak of pump changes what where you changes where you making, ie Loader, Impellers, inducer, nozel insert, bowls,
    Trimmer & Pinner

  10. #10
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    And more..... TIMINATOR

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