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  1. #16
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    Masked Engine:


    Sprayed really light coat of white engine paint... really light sets up, then gives the "grit" for the a heavier coat to stick to, without runs. Light coat, allow to almost dry, then heavier. This is the best way for an easy finish.





    Tonight I'm going to spray it red. I sprayed it white first, to give the red more "pop". Everytime I use red paint on a darker surface it always looks dead.... hence the white basecoat.

  2. #17
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    Sprayed the engine red at lunch yesterday:




  3. #18
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    Exhaust manifolds were awful, took them apart and found this:


    Ordered new gasket, going to get these blasted and respray satin black, hi temp.

    [IMG][/IMG]
    Smashing them into a wheel to get the elbow to separate from the log. Thing was rusted solid. Yuck.


    Stripped the seats to replace the rotten floors. Traced them on cardboard, cut new ones out.



    Put my lovely assistant to work on the rear seat. She took out the staples, then traced the rotten wood again.


    Started tearing up the floor. It was a lot of work under the dash. Extra fiberglass and less rot under there, so it was a PITA.


    Here's where someone cut a hole for a cooler. This compromised the floor, which then rotted, as well as the main stringer.


    This just slid in, with minimal pressure. Yuck.

  4. #19
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    [IMG][/IMG]
    Front cushions done!


    All the new staples are stainless steel, unlike the originals. The vinyl is treated with meguires, and got really stretchy in the sun. You can also see the new wood in the base.


    Rear seat, DONE!!!!


    Front seats have replacement floors sealed, then screwed in through the fiberglass sides, then filled all the gaps, and coated with FG resin. Totally sealed from the elements.


    Yikes. It's only uphill from here. I think.


    She was saying something, I wasn't paying attention.


    My roommate tearing up some wood. It was pretty far gone.


    Floor is out. Next up on the hitlist: Main stringer.


    And again the lovely assistant using her suturing skills to repair the small tears in the vinyl.


    I can just see her being like "ahhhh, someone is taking care of me again". I can't wait.

  5. #20
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    Really? No comments on the progress?

  6. #21
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    Dec 2001
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    She looks good.


    Ralph Musser
    27' Fountain Fever W/ 525SC
    22' Rapid Craft W/ Evinrude 300 V8 January 2009 BOAT OF THE MONTH SOLD
    24' Triton 240 Gold W/ Mercury 60
    14' Royalcraft W/ Evinrude 75 father/daughter project

  7. #22
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    guelph
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    looks like lots of work, good luck! Oh and ya she looks good

  8. #23
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    Alot of work now but its totally worth it when your done. Plus its all the way YOU want it. Keep up the good work. I was looking at one of these for sale today but its set up for an outboard. Did they come with o/b's from the factory?

  9. #24
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    Yeah, some did. I like the inboard version better though, looks cleaner.

  10. #25
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    I`ve been watching sence you started this thread and must say that ya`ll have done wonders with what appears to be a tight budget. Way-2-go.

    db

  11. #26
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    Updates. It's been a while, and I've been really busy so I haven't had time to post much.


    Removed rotten stringer.


    Test fitting the new stringer. She's a beautiful 2x8 hand picked from about 40 of them at a lumber yard. Straight as an arrow, barely any knots. Upon test fitting, I discovered that ORIGINAL stringer did not touch the hull at all for about four feet in the center. Basically, the styling of this boat was great, but the build quality was awful. I think everyone was just too coked out in 78 to care much. SOO...

    I bought a 2x4, 6' long, and cut it with a sabre saw to make it 1" in the middle, and taper to nothing on the ends. Then used big stainless screws to screw that into the bottom of the stringer. This allowed the stringer full contact with the hull of the boat.


    Picked up a belt sander at harbor freight for $30. Used that to round the top edges of the stringer so the glass will wrap around it easier.


    Here she is, all ready to be put in. Course.... I was drinking so...


    Boobs. And here you can clearly see the addition to the stringer, due to reasons above.


    My roommate throwing the stringer in. Well, about to anyway.

  12. #27
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    The stringer installed with $75 worth of marine structural fiberglass filler. Nasty stuff.


    Heh.


    Sanding the hull so it will accept new glass, and get a nice strong bond.


    This is the first coat of glass. You can barely even tell it's glassed in. Sorry, no process shots, hands were full of resin and fiberglass fuzz.


    I had some help! My girlfriend and my roommate glassing the front of the stringer in. I was busy hitting it from the rear.


    Crack on the outside fiberglass, where the cap and hull join. This is due to a poorly reinforced tow hook. To fix it....


    Hog it out with an angle grinder....


    Then fill with resin, and a thin strip of FG mat. I'll build up the layers eventually to fill it in.


    The pencil is taped in to help hold the FG strip into the carved area.

    Today I bought the 4x8 plywood, as well as even more resin. Yay.

  13. #28
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    Awesome progress! Been following since the beginning on here, great to see how you're getting it done!

  14. #29
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    Looks good but need more pictures of the girlfriend helping. That is something you don't see very often. You are a lucky man.


    Ralph Musser
    27' Fountain Fever W/ 525SC
    22' Rapid Craft W/ Evinrude 300 V8 January 2009 BOAT OF THE MONTH SOLD
    24' Triton 240 Gold W/ Mercury 60
    14' Royalcraft W/ Evinrude 75 father/daughter project

  15. #30
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    Looks like you've made a lot of progress and the project is well on it's way.

    One thing I would suggest is more glass on the stringer and better attachment to the floor. Although it's hard to tell for sure in the pictures, it doesn't APPEAR that there's much glass on the side of the wood, wrapping it to the floor. Only heavy glassing/bonding of the bottom edge to the bottom of the boat isn't adequate to insure that it doesn't get popped loose when gettin' hammered in rough water. Solid planks like that don't make the best choice for that type of structure for the reason that you touched on in the selection of it......... warpage. Plywood on edge is more rigid and makes for better structure IF you keep it dry. Back to the two by, if you've only got one layer of mat coming up the sides as the picture appears, I would grind the bottom of the boat several inches wide on both sides of the stringer as well as the glass on both sides of the stringer itself with something like a 36 grit disc to give it teeth, and then put several layers of glass on the bottom and then up the sides, preferably all the way, encasing the top as well. In doing it this way, the strength will be in the glass rectangle you will form, rather than depending on the wood. Some boats actually use foam to form a shape for fiberglass reinforcement, and some use cardboard tube for it, usually under the deck rather than in the floor. The point is, the glass needs to be laminated in a way that it's a structural component itself, rather than just a sealer for the wood, and it needs to have substantial width in both horizontal and vertical planes for this to be accomplished.

    One other SMALL suggestion. The repair at the rear deck where narrow glass is stuffed in the ground out seam is not likely to prevent future cracking, even if only cosmetic. If you want to do it right where you won't have future problems, you should now V it out an inch or more wide, both inside and out (if the plywood from the transom allows it inside) and put several layers of glass. As an alternative, if the wood is in the way inside, you can make a rounded seam (ditch) from the outside with a small wheel that goes from very shallow at the edges to almost all the way through every thing in the area where the crack is, and glass it back to level and then grind it smooth and wipe it with filler, which of course will require paint work or a stripe to cover. This type of repair has been done for years on Corvettes, 82 and older to repair the troublesome factory body seams, and of course a Corvette doesn't endure NEAR the stresses that the transom of a boat does, so it's even more important on the boat.

    Pressure treated plywood would also be my perference for the floor UNLESS you're going to seal it well from BOTH SIDES (the bottom before installation).

    Good luck with the project. Hope you maintain your momentum and get it finished.
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