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  1. #1
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    GM techs please.

    Need some help.
    Took my '01 1500 Silverado (5.4) to Shreveport Louisana to get my A boat last weekend and the truck ran perfect for the 15 hr (@80) 1000 mile trip.
    We parked at our destination and when we tried to move it 10 mins later it would not start. It WOULD start and run w/the key in the start postion but would die as soon as you let it go to "run". Did that probably 30 times.
    4 of us stood around and scratched our heads for another 5 or 10 mins before leaving it behind while we ran to p/u the boat from a different location.
    We got back probably an hr later ready to start trouble shooting and the damn thing started! We thought maybe something was heat soaked so I let it run for an hr or so and shut it off. Re-started w/no issue. Let it sit a couple more mins (thinking more heat soak) and again it re-started fine. Checked it probably 20 times through the rest of the day and had no issues!
    We left for Fla the next morning and did the return 15 hr trip w/o shutting it off just in case. Ran perfect entire trip.
    Have started, and re-started it 20 times since w/no issue. Just put a code reader on it and got nothing. It never did give an engine waring light either.
    Only other sympton is my gas gauge acts like it has a bad connection some place so we wondered maybe ignition switch??
    Called the shop in town who are very good and they said as I expected that w/o a sympton they have nothing to fix.
    Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.
    I swap vehicles w/my wife quite often (was supposed to today) and CAN'T have that happening to her.
    Thanks in advance guys.
    Gary
    I'd rather be competitive w/junk I built in my garage than win w/stuff I bought.


    I refuse to allow common sense to interfere w/my boat buying decisions.


    Checkmate 16' 140 Johnson
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    24' Sonic w/twin 250 Johnsons
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    19' STV River Rocket w/FrankenRude II
    Allison XR 2002 w/Frankenrude II
    Hydrostream 18' V-King w/Frankenrude II

  2. #2
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    5.3
    Quartershot T-3R 15" 3.5L E-Tec 1.62 Sportmaster


  3. #3
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    I'm not sure about the 5.3 but I have had Control Modules do that on some Chevy motors. Does the 5.3 have a control module?

  4. #4
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    Gary my buddy just had a very similar problem,they claim it was the dash assembly,and replaced it.Its been an issue..

  5. #5
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    Dash cluster..

  6. #6
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    5.3, No control module, its distributorless. I have the same truck with 112,000 miles, never had that problem. I have had a few problems with the 4x4 switch on the dash, and knock sensor(under the intake manifold), and now have an ABS light on with no code, but thats it.

  7. #7
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    Is it possible it could be something as simple as the key switch wearing out?


    Ralph Musser
    27' Fountain Fever W/ 525SC
    22' Rapid Craft W/ Evinrude 300 V8 January 2009 BOAT OF THE MONTH SOLD
    24' Triton 240 Gold W/ Mercury 60
    14' Royalcraft W/ Evinrude 75 father/daughter project

  8. #8
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    I'm with Riverratt
    Sounds like what mine did. Ignition switch. Good Luck!

  9. #9
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    Fuel pump gets my vote. Check fuel pressure. If pressure is "twitchy" on gauge, needs a pump.

  10. #10
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    Well the gas gauge is the sender in the tank change them all the time! I would say fuel pump too, but you said if you keep the key in the start postion it would not stall? Then that is a bad ing switch. So to fix truck you need fuel pump assy(to fix gas gauge) Ing switch to fix the stalling. (switch not the tumber)

    Skydog
    2011 DCB F26
    2017 300 XS DBR

  11. #11
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    i second the ignition switch(or third)
    action mobile marine, 772 528 0754, dealers for aces fuel products,wolf efi, pro marine,latham and gaffrig/livorsi. we build gearcases and modify them(3 litre) to ratchet, and powerheads as well. 21 skater/3 litre wolf efi 113 mph the engine build http://www.screamandfly.com/showthre...-3-litre-build

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by skydog View Post
    Well the gas gauge is the sender in the tank change them all the time! I would say fuel pump too, but you said if you keep the key in the start postion it would not stall? Then that is a bad ing switch. So to fix truck you need fuel pump assy(to fix gas gauge) Ing switch to fix the stalling. (switch not the tumber)

    Skydog
    Is it possible that when the key returns back to run that it is not making good enough contact to supply power to the fuel pump or a good enough signal to the fuel sender? The problem could still be all ignition switch.


    Ralph Musser
    27' Fountain Fever W/ 525SC
    22' Rapid Craft W/ Evinrude 300 V8 January 2009 BOAT OF THE MONTH SOLD
    24' Triton 240 Gold W/ Mercury 60
    14' Royalcraft W/ Evinrude 75 father/daughter project

  13. #13
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    No the sender in the tank has alittle arm that runs up and down on a little strip, this arm gets lose and looses contact with the strip. This is so so comon.

    Skydog
    2011 DCB F26
    2017 300 XS DBR

  14. #14
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    by your description of problem ( engine starting & continuing to run while holding key in start position) ignition switch is the problem ,NOT THE IGNITION LOCK CYL.ignition switch isnt a big job & comes with harness,remove driver knee bolster,column shrouds , switch located under lock cyl housing, disconect related conectors & replace switch,reassemble ,done.by the way, chevy trucks will run without inst. cluster installed , not related in any way ., gm says to disable airbag system , not needed, just dont poke or probe any wires with a testlight , too bad i"m so far away as id only charge you a beer to fix it for ya ! fuel gage fluxuation ... sender in tank, some models can replace the card & float arm only,worst part is tank removal ,but if you have around 100000 miles ,go for a pump while youre in there, good insurance & only need to drop the tank once.hope this helps

  15. #15
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    100% agree with Gary...haven't seen the issue very often on the Silverados, but VERY common on the Malibu Classics. I think I can about change them things in my sleep now.

    Just get the electrical portion of the ignition switch, swap it out, and done deal.

    As for the fuel gauge, they ALL do it...Just drop the tank and put a new in tank unit in it. If you don't do the whole unit and just do the sender, if your luck is anything like mine you'll get about 6 months and at the worst possible time the fuel pump will crap out...

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