Removing T-stats and Poppet Valve

**Talon2.5** · 10-25-2002, 06:29 AM

ok heres a suggestion, remember this is merely my suggestion of what i would do if it were mine (when it's mine i'll experiment)

you have the light wieght offshore cowl and pan, from the looks of it you have the high perf gasket on the mid plate, you have a modified 2 piece midplate to put in the pyro's so...........

first please post a pic of the side of the block of the poppet holes

and an overview shot of the top of the midplate

now if it were mine i would cut a piece of aluminum to fit down into the triangular hole in the midplate that will go all the way to the bottom yet flush with the gasket area on top, then do the cooling mods you want to do since it did run hot

**Talon2.5** · 10-25-2002, 06:39 AM

remember you WILL have to run a piss tube hose off the poppet valve cover!!

example pic...........

**us1** · 10-25-2002, 09:10 AM

I would change the cowl pan to a 260 pan.

**Talon2.5** · 10-25-2002, 09:11 AM

yep i forgot that one need that pic too

**bill mason** · 10-25-2002, 10:32 AM

I missed this post when I posted low water pressure and where did all you wrenches go. Damn I hate to be the last one to the party and everyone has beaten this subject to death buuuut I think this must have something to do with my water pressure problem. An update for Skip & John my exhaust plate is 1 piece of a 92 off shore not two piece. Mechanic changed this out from my stock 225 PM when he put the 260 on. Now I just put the new 225PM back on this set up. Guys I have checked out all hoses, blew air thur to see if gauge is working, changed lower units, checked for obstructions up inside, checked grommets. Didn't have problems before with 225 or 260. Not enough water pressure to give good reading on gauge or push water thru thermostats (when they are open 150) water just dribbles out pee hole, yet when I take left thermostat out and run it at idle it will piss a 4' stream but no difference on gauge. Last night I did all the modifications that Skip posted (except the "install diverters under heads above the lower 2 cylinders") which I don't understand yet. Do you just stick some hoses in there or do they hookup to something and is it necessary that I have them? I have put the quarters (with holes drilled)in the housing inplace of the thermostats and will run tonight. It just seems that somewhere the water isn't getting thru the engine with enough pressure to go thru thermostats and to gauge yet take the thermostat out and bam. Sorry for so long of post but this thing has got me going. Thanks again for your help.

**Talon2.5** · 10-25-2002, 12:24 PM

page 3 and 4 cover the diverters in this thread DONT run modified water cooling system with out them the water will run right by the cylinder as fast as it's let to, thus not pulling any heat out of the motor, i'll say it again..........sounds like those thermostats are NO GOOD!! and when you DID have a poppet in there it should have had waterpressure so that still makes me wonder about base gaskets

now we have 2 different motors going here, were you the one that said you had a blue base gasket and some other one but they werent the high perf one? if so pull that powerhead the gaskets split or something else is wrong

**bill mason** · 10-25-2002, 01:30 PM

No I am not the one that had blue gaskets. I have three base gaskets and they all match up exactly with the exhaust plate and all are the same (two differend suppliers). I ran my hand all around the engine with it running and didn't feel any leaks coming from the gasket area. My PM plate had a brass fitting where a waterhose attached to it (from somewhere) and the off shore that is on here now doesn't. Is there something in the design of the offshore plate that isn't working with the setup on the PM that isn't letting water go thru the engine?. If thermostats were bad wouldn't one of two things happen, either it would never warm up or it would overheat? It doesn't have either of these problems. Guess that doesn't matter as I have tossed them anyway. Bugs the hell out of me, like I said way to many times, that damn thing has lot of water pressure "out of pee hole without thermostat" but never has pressure up to the gauge.

**Talon2.5** · 10-25-2002, 06:04 PM

that "no water pressure" has also been addressed in this thread

most of the modified colling system motors (mine included) show ZERO at idle and even a little above idle i gotta rev it just to show one pound on the hose and it only flashes that one pound for a second.............nature of the modified beast..........unmodified with no pressure problems with the gaskets that require pulling of the powerhead to SEE!!

this is going in circles

**pirogue** · 10-25-2002, 07:45 PM

this is the top side of the 2 piece mid plate i filled to install pyro, thus taking water from cooling the tuner.

**pirogue** · 10-25-2002, 07:48 PM

this is what the above plate looks like when you look at it from top

**pirogue** · 10-25-2002, 07:50 PM

thats how the tuner was cooled from them holes

**pirogue** · 10-25-2002, 07:53 PM

that hole in poppet is now bocked at the mid plate with wooden plug and filled with silicone on top.

**pirogue** · 10-25-2002, 07:56 PM

thats what top side looks like with pan installed. I will be putting a fitting in the poppt cover and running it out with the two outlets coming from each head with washers installed and 2 extra diverters.

**bill mason** · 10-25-2002, 09:41 PM

did everything you had on these pages as far as removing poppet valve, filling hole in cover, running hose from poppet cover, plugging top hole where hose from posset valve went in, getting rid of thermostats. Put clear hose on from engine to gauge. Same exact deal as when I took out left thermostat. water flying out port side, nothing on otherside and no water to gauge at any rpm. dropped lowerunit and put a garden hose on copper peip. exact same thing. there is something in this offshore plate that is blocking water from getting thru poppet valve and up to gauge. pulling powerhead in the morning. I have never got into the exhaust plate before but what the hell its a learnign experience. Mechanic that put the 260 on removed the motor mounts and I asssume put in different ones and had to put in longer steering yoke bolts. Not sure why but I am tearing into it. I am going to try to put everything back on that was stock except the tuner. Will let you know how it goes. Thx

**Talon2.5** · 10-25-2002, 09:54 PM

well i think ya did right by blocking that hole in the mid plate BUT.....if that silicone ever breaks loose it could get lodged in the cooling passages and cause you a reeeaaal bad day

thats why i would have made it from aluminum with just a snug fit, it wont go anywhere

now on to the pan, looks good, now in one of those pics i saw a gasket on the floor, it's not a high perf midplate gasket, you need 2 of the high perf onespart number 2693A from rickracer

in the poppet pic i cant see into the hole "B" in the pic, if that hole is drilled through from the factory it needs to be blocked off

hole "A" has a plastic ring in there, leave the plastic ring but remove the rubber ring connected to it, now on this part what i did to mine was put a washer that fits in the "step" of that plastic piece with a 1/4 in hole in it and took the spring off the poppet valve and when i installed the cover i put the spring between the washer and the cover to hold pressure against the washer to hold the washer in place

and did the same with the back hole "B" with a block off disc and spring "IF" it's drilled to flow water, you dont want that hole to flow any water with the cooling mods

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removing t-stats and poppet valve

removing t-stats and poppet valve

ok skip here we go!

removing t stats and poppet valve

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