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  1. #46
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    Cool Diverters

    Not sure on this one. My 1995 and 1997 260 had them from the factory at the spots I mentioned and thats where I always put them on other motors. I'm not sure it makes a diff or not. Maybe US1 has a point on it?
    As for the hose size, its 1/4 fule line. 5/16 is too tight and 3/8 is WAY too tight to fit. 1/4 braided slides in with a 1/4 drive socket upsidedown to push on it. You want a gap on top and bottom so don't cut the hose too long.

  2. #47
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    That was my next question...

    I was wondering if the hose should be squished between the head and the block or left loose in there? You must have ESP!

    ------------'82 Vector - Mercury 2.4 Bridgeport "MOD"
    "Life is short - Get there fast...MERCURY"

  3. #48
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    i have always used tight ones and left the gap on the ends
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  4. #49
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    How much of a gap?

    1/4"-1/2" on each end?

    ------------'82 Vector - Mercury 2.4 Bridgeport "MOD"
    "Life is short - Get there fast...MERCURY"

  5. #50
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    well on mine about 3/16 or so depending on my attitude at the time or how i hold my tongue when cutting them hahahahaha sorry!! just screwing around been a crazy week so far and the worst is yet to come

    yep i just read his up top and 5/16 is the ticket
    Last edited by Talon2.5; 10-08-2002 at 11:55 AM.
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  6. #51
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    Thumbs up

    Talon2.5
    When you said it was hard to explain I didn't think it woud take 10 posts! Great job though it all makes sence now,I ran a SST 140 block and used the HP base gskt that must have been blocking the triangle dump I think I'll take off the clamshells and go back to the BP cowl.

    After this thread your less than 100 back in the top poster race!

    90 Comp V-King (original owner), Blueprinted Hull
    Nicom 2.4 oval port, Ruck Lake cut, 140# comp.
    Custom Laser EFI, Brucato ACU, TDR Reeds 1"

  7. #52
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    top post race? shooooot i'll never catch him!!

    the stuff i posted is kind of a "rough draft" of how it works to an extent, the higher authorities in my eyes are greg moss, jay, US-1, raceman etc.

    i'm sure they could put the whats what better than me
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  8. #53
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    Excuse my ignorance but how do these diverters actually work? Do they direct water to a certain spot or am I totally missing the boat(so to speak)

    Thanks

    Craig
    16' Inland TigerShark Flatbottom/
    1978 Merc1400withXS Mid
    coming soon: 2.4 220 Lazer EFI/Marty Powell 15"mid
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    1991 STV Pro Comp/Mercury 1996 2.5 260

  9. #54
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    When you remove the popet you have to install the diverters to slow and redirect the water flow.
    90 Comp V-King (original owner), Blueprinted Hull
    Nicom 2.4 oval port, Ruck Lake cut, 140# comp.
    Custom Laser EFI, Brucato ACU, TDR Reeds 1"

  10. #55
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    Just read through the post and Talon sure is getting a mental workout on this one !!!!!!!
    Thanks Talon, you're making these cooling system mods make more sense than "just take out the poppet".
    Hydro Burke
    AE-21
    330 HP 2.5 "Monster Marles" Merc
    Seebold F1 race boat

  11. #56
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    how do these diverters actually work?
    divert, to change the direction or re-direct

    instead of the water running right by the cylinder, it stops it and sends it back around the cylinder and holds it just long enough to start pulling heat out of the motor, slows the flow down,like dave sowles said


    and with diverters, washers, pisstubes large diameter, piss tube off the poppet cover large diameter, and the triangular dump hole covered it has block pressure and can cool the motor yet let it out fast also

    stock version with a poppet hold water pressure in intil it overpressurizes itself and the poppet opens (by pressure not temp) and dumps the excess water and pressure so as not to blow a seal or gasket


    with no poppet- water pressure is roughly 0-2psi at idle
    12-15psi or so WOT (with a healthy water pump)

    with a poppet- water pressure is 2-7psi roughly at an idle
    and can peg a guage at WOT


    stock form motors running cool and at recommended RPM's or a little above really shouldnt need any modification

    high RPM motors of course will run hotter therefore needing the cooling mods

    but i knew a guy some years back with a heavily modified 2 liter that would run hot if it didnt have a poppet, so theres NO cut and dried answer for everyday lake hot rods that are pleasure boats in the same right

    gotta fiddle with it to see what that particular motor is gonna like the best

    my motor has no poppet, washers in the heads (dont remember hole size though) triple piss tubes, diverters, spring tension on a washer in the poppet valve area, and the plastic piss tube tips in the end of each piss tube, this is different than any other motor i had and thats because thats what this one liked to keep it cool, had to fiddle with it and use the infrared hand held thermometer and good temp guage, runs 140-150 WOT sometimes on a real hot day up around 160 but if i see that temp i slow her down and let her cool, but thats just me, i dont like it that hot, it may not hurt it but why dance with the devil and be a victim of myself, i let it cool a bit and rock on in the florida heat, i want to go boating again, not get the garage ready for a re-build

    back when i had a 2 hole CLE if i saw the water pressure drop even a few pounds i would stop the boat close to the bank jump out pull the side covers and clear the debris and there usually was when the pressure changed even a little

    pay attention to the temp, water pressure more than anything else and chances are if you dont think "ahhhh it's ok" when it starts to heat up and take care of the problem ASAP you wont be rebuilding due to an overheat, 9 times outa 10 it's a simple deal and can be dealt with on the spot get a 2 stroke too hot and it WILL stick
    Last edited by Talon2.5; 10-09-2002 at 05:46 AM.
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  12. #57
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    Sorry Guys....

    ...for bringing this thread back to the fundamentals.

    I'm one of those guys with a stock 2.4 200HP that runs a little hot and would like to consider cooling mods. The suggestion of going to a nose cone may be a little too pricey at the moment. I will stick with my stock lower unit for now and replace the impeller and examine the pump housing and replace it too if I see any irregularities.

    Seems removing the poppet is a no-no with a 2 piece cowling which I have. Is this true or am I confusing general rules with application-specific ones? Is there anything in the poppet valve that can be examined? What should I look for? Should I just do the t-stat to washer mod to start? Am I gaining anything?

    Help! I've got the boat at home now and would like to get this stuff done..........before it starts getting too cold to work outside here in Canada. I made my first snowball this past Sunday morning at the cottage!

    Thanks,
    Checkmate Mike

  13. #58
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    Skip, I don't see anything to add to what you've said here. This thread needs to be saved into an archive that's easily findable because it's very well explained. Maybe we'll get to the point of having some real good stuff like this at easy reach for anybody lookin' in a tech area on the site.
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  14. #59
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    Thumbs up

    thanks raceman!! means alot coming from one of the "top brass" here!!


    mike,

    i hate to hit a question with a question but how hot are we talking here that your motor gets? we will start from here, and do you have thermostats? one piece heads?
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  15. #60
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    Hey Skip...

    What difference does it make if you have 1 piece or 2 piece heads? I'm going to 1 piece 31cc heads and need to know if I need to do these mods.

    ------------'82 Vector - Mercury 2.4 Bridgeport "MOD"
    "Life is short - Get there fast...MERCURY"

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