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Thread: vector
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03-22-2010, 05:33 AM #61Screaming And Flying!
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The way I look at it , the trans. should be the strongest part of the boat. When I re-built mine The sequence I used.from the outer skin in was, 3/8 " Glass, 3/4" 25# coosa,1/4" glass,3/4" coosa,1/2" glass. With this much glass to bolt to theres no need for alum plates and such. Compression is also not a concern as long as you don't get the bolts tighter than necc. Use a torque wrench, 25# is usually good.. Also on the top of the trans, or cap area, use at least 1/2 " of glass to make this a structual member of the trans.also. The best glass to use imo is the 1708 bi axial and 11/2 oz. matt. with vinylester resin . Overdrill the mounting holes and seal the coosa with epoxy resin. Plywood will work, but coosa is forever. Both are strong and relatively cheap. When looking at the overall cost to get this project done right, the price diff between marine ply and coosa will wash out.... It's looking good, will be great fun when finished...
83 V-King, 96 Mariner, 200 hp ff block 2.5 w/a 28p choppa
We gotta clean this liberal mess up, VOTE TRUMP TO MAGA!
Rebuild thread:
http://www.screamandfly.com/showthre...-it&highlight=
http://www.screamandfly.com/showthre...cs.&highlight=
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03-22-2010, 07:35 PM #62Banned
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is coosa really forever?
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03-22-2010, 09:00 PM #63
check them out www.coosacomposites.com Poly foam reinforced with layers of fiberglass/ no rot .
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03-24-2010, 08:52 AM #64Banned
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coosa 3/4" 4x8=$180.00 in lakeland
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03-24-2010, 12:09 PM #65Member
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03-24-2010, 02:20 PM #665000 RPM
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Coosa
I don't understand why 3 sheets of the bluewater 26 if purchased in 1/2 inch increments (4 x 8) weigh almost exactly the same amount as 2 sheets of 3/4 inch (4 x 8) when the 1/2 inch has two layers of woven roving, and the 3/4 inch also has just two layers of woven roving. This means that if building a structure 1 1/2 inch thick, the 3 pieces of 1/2 inch together has 2 extra layers of woven roving, but if using the 3/4 inch, you are not saving any weight (less than one pound per 4 x 8 sheet!)
no doubt, the 3 individual 1/2 inch sheets would be much stronger with two extra layers of roving, and no more weight! I don't get it. My thinking is that, perhaps, the weight data is not quite exact on the coosa site. Otherwise, us transom builders should really use 3 layers of 1/2 inch instead of the easier 2 layers of 3/4 inch.
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03-24-2010, 02:22 PM #675000 RPM
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Unless the woven roving is a heavier weave in the 3/4 inch, making up some of the strength difference, but i don't think it is.
Ronny
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03-24-2010, 02:50 PM #68
Just curious , what type of glass are you going to use 1708 or............ and have you nailed down a resin that you plan on using , such as........ Poly, Vinyl , or Epoxy
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03-24-2010, 03:05 PM #69
Ronny , interesting and a very good point and you just might be on to something about the weight data not being exact because the only advantage at this point using Coosa over ply is the price and no rot , and if the job is done in ply fully incapsulated and the repair on the transom is done right you have a transom done cheaper then Coosa and stronger. Heres the skiney guys Blue water 26 is the strongest and stiffest and 30% lighter then plywood and a 4x8 sheet 3/4 weighs 52 lbs , 5/8 -43 lbs, 1/2 - 35 lbs , and if you go with Bluewater 20 it is not as strong as Bluewater 26 and weighs less and a 4x8 sheet of bluewater 20 comes in at 1/2 inch 27, lbs - 5/8, 33lbs ,3/4 -40 lbs and is typically used as a semi structural component and to tell you the truth this subject can sometimes get very heated , Just my 2 cents .
Last edited by OFFSHORE GINGER; 03-24-2010 at 05:41 PM.
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03-24-2010, 03:17 PM #705000 RPM
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Weight matters a little too
I am thinking of coosa on the 13 allison i am doing since it is a boat less than 175 pounds to start, any bit of 5 or 10 pounds you take off will help. On a 900 pound bass boat, it ain't worth it to save 25 pounds in my opinion, unless you are winning some prize money with it.
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03-24-2010, 06:12 PM #71
so would yall say that using the 3/4 coosa instead of the 3/4 ply would be far better i know that the coosa will not rot.Im fixing to start my vking and getting a list of everything im gonna use i need a complete transome and ripping the core out this week this will be my first time doing this ive got weeks on top of weeks reading yalls threads and watching yalls build i think i can tackle it
90 xr 2002
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03-24-2010, 06:48 PM #72Screaming And Flying!
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Generally speaking, I find that coosa transoms have to have more glass thickness than the plywood ones. Coosa will compress easier than a marine multi lam plywood. Go heavy on the glass where the motor bolts on and it wont compress at all... coosa or ply wood will both work well. If glassed properly.. JMO
83 V-King, 96 Mariner, 200 hp ff block 2.5 w/a 28p choppa
We gotta clean this liberal mess up, VOTE TRUMP TO MAGA!
Rebuild thread:
http://www.screamandfly.com/showthre...-it&highlight=
http://www.screamandfly.com/showthre...cs.&highlight=
Videos
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03-24-2010, 08:26 PM #73Member
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forever is a long time. If the forever word is used the first thing is say is you lie because there is no way anyone can know this for sure.
although
technology has given us materials that will last longer than wood products when subjected to moisture while doing the same job.
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03-24-2010, 09:57 PM #74Banned
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03-24-2010, 10:32 PM #75Banned
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