jetboat timing issues 454

[msswindled]

alright guys, i've been fighting this beast on my own with no results. i figured i would just break down and ask someone for help. i've got a 74 spoiler with a chevy 454, and i think i have an ignition problem. i'll try to be as exact and accurate as possible here. its has a mallory unilite dist(mech adv), mallory canister coil, new wires, plugs, it has a holley 750 (mechanical sec), edelbrock torker 2 manifold. mild cam( sorry dont know the exact specs), stock heads with fresh, valves, guides, springs, clips., slightly domed pistons.
after a top end rebuild, i hand spun the eng around till #1 was at tdc on the compression stroke. set the distributor down in the intake, after turning the oil pump shaft a little, it dropped right in. the rotor was pointing toward #1 and when i put the cap back on, the rotor was lined up with the #1 wire on dist cap and the balancer on 0 tdc. Is this right??? i mean i may have lost my mind here, but i swear this is how i done it before!
when turning it over, you have to finesse the throttle a good bit just to keep it runnin, sounds like crap and wont idle. turning the dist either way while trying to keep it running doesnt really get me anywhere, not enough improvement to get it to idle anyways..


am i doing the initial time right?
is my dist goin bad?
any and all suggestions and help is greatly appreciated !!

[mschei2]

have you checked to make sure your spark plug wires are installed in the proper firing order on dist cap and at the spark plugs?

[mschei2]

also when you reinstalled the rocker arms did you set valve lash properly?

[Fonz69]

Have you tried to check the timing to see where its at or at least the best you can check it with the way it is running?

Mschei2 is right double check your firing order and lash on the valves

I am sure you did it right but a easy way to check for #1 tdc is pull #1 plug and put your finger over the plug hole and turn over the motor till it blows your finger away, then turn the balancer back to 0 and you should be there.

Does it backfire thru the carb?

[SS-201]

Sounds like its out of time, when you find 1 on the cap check the harmonic balancer to see what it reads. That is the best way to get dead center, you can be fooled the other way. Also as mentioned before also will show if the wires are right.

[msswindled]

thanks for the response guys. yeah, the plugs are in the right firing order 18436572. also the valves are set at zero lash. the #1 piston is at tdc and the balancer is on 0 degr, tdc. i turned the crank around till the air stopped coming from #1 spark plug hole, looked at the balancer and it was on 0 tdc. dropped the dist in and it was pointing at #1. i installed the cap, #1 wire at the rotor, in order 18436...clockwise. wont stay running.. also, while trying to keep it running, rpm's around 1500-2000, the mark on the balancer is off the chart. it is about 4 inches to the left of the guage on the timing chain cover. turning the dist to get the mark closer to where it should be, kills it. starting to wander about the unilite dist.
also, i heard people saying something about being 180 out..?? anyone know how to check this without tearing the engine back apart? i dont think it is, considering that it starts with the above mentioned set-up. but im really starting to second guess myself. if all ive done is right, im thinking this dist may be goin bad...??


AAAAARRRRGGHHHHH !!!

[Bies]

Pull the valve cover and watch #1 until the exhaust closes, bring around to TDC, that should be #1 Fire

[mschei2]

were you experiencing any problems before the head work? possible cam timing issue or flat cam?

[mschei2]

i had another thought.may not be a timing issue.check for vacuum leaks.a large enough leak can cause the engine to run poorly,such as an intake gasket.with the engine running you can spray some carb cleaner around the intake and see if the idle changes.if it does then you have a vacuum leak

[msswindled]

im pretty sure that i've got tdc on #1. i'll do it once again by pulling the valve cover and check. before the head work , it was running about 3800 rpm tops, and popping while getting on plane. after plane, any more pedal than 3800...started popping. even with at wot would only reach 38-3900 rpm. pulled the cam, was a huge cam that pulled to 6500 ! the springs on both heads were trashed, only holding 50% on rated seat pressure, somewhere like 60 lbs. guides were shaved too short..bent valves.....so, i had the heads redone, went back with a "mild" cam, that pulls from 1200-4200. had it running for a few runs. ran fine sounded good. still wouldnt pull over 3800 rpm, and im pretty sure the tac is working. was only getting 38 mph per gps. so i pulled the covers, readjusted the vlaves, and was going to "reset" the timing. got ready to fire it back up, and this is what she does.

i remember when i installed the cam, that i put the dots together on the timing gears, someone metioned that this would make the cam 180 out ? is this correct? and if so would i be seeing these symptoms if it were 180 out?

[Bies]

Dot to dot is 180* out, that is fire on #6 Rotate until lower dot is at 6:00 and the top is at 12:00,
Cam rotates 1/2 the crankshaft speed

[mschei2]

i will admit i have more experiance with ford than chevy,but its my understanding that you want cam gear dot at 6:00 and crank gear dot at 12:00

[Fonz69]

i will admit i have more experiance with ford than chevy,but its my understanding that you want cam gear dot at 6:00 and crank gear dot at 12:00

I agree

[Fonz69]

The dowel on the cam should be at 3 oclock

The keyway on the crank should be at 3 oclock

Again use a timing light if you can get it to run up to 3000 rpm on the trailer (with pump disconected) see where the timing is at there.

[msswindled]

i was told by the cam manufacturer that the timing dots on the timing and cam gear should aline with one another, cam at 6 and crank at 12...???