Another inline 6 question.

[romanowichm]

I have a 1979 115 I-6. Today when we went out skiing, I noticed that the motor would load up under putt putt speed. Eventually the motor would die. I squeezed the bulb, but when I did, it seem to make the motor die more quickly, which leads me to believe that I am getting too much gas and not enough air. It ran fine when I hit the gas and otherwise. I also noticed that after I shut off the motor, I was leaving a small trail of gas in the water. Any ideas?

[BigJohnson]

My guess would be needles and seats in the carbs. I have also had a float that filled with fuel and sunk on mine. It's easy enough to take the carbs off and check. You'll get some good suggestions on here.

[Project Contender]

idle rpm should be around 850 in forward..check the timing.. plugs.. old blackened plugs load up quickly..
after that.. carbs need looked at..

[Jeff_G]

Try turning in the idle mixture screws 1/8 of a turn until the engine starts to pop. Then turn back 1/4 turn. See if the idle isn't better. Now try to get the boat on plane, if it does leave the carbs alone, if not richen them 1/8 of a turn, out, until you can easily get on plane. Your carbs should be correct.
You can also advance the timing slightly at idle, but if you are leaving gas in the water either the float level is wrong and the carb is flooding as posted above or the carb idle mixture is set too rich.

[romanowichm]

I have a feeling that the float is stuck. This happened one time last year, but seemed to resolve itself. I don't have any mechanical experience with outboards, but I want to learn. My friend thought, if you remove the carbs, they would have to be resync'ed. Does anyone have some good info on how to remove the carbs and check the floats?

[BigJohnson]

I have a book that covers 1977-1989. Looks like there are several different carbs that were used. I could give you some info with a pic of the carb or a real good description. In the SELOC book mine is style D. They have A, B, C, D, E.

[wogi]

What lake do you run on? Just wondering, if we were close to each other Id take a peek at it for sh-ts and grins!

[romanowichm]

We were at Brown's Lake yesterday. I will pull the cowling and find out which carbs they are.

[Jeff_G]

You don't have to pull the carbs. Remove the float bowl covers, 2 screws, with the float bowl covers upside down the levers should be level. Also make sure the floats float in gas.

[romanowichm]

I will give that a try. Thanks.

[romanowichm]

Here are the pics of my carbs.

[BigJohnson]

Can you get at the carbs to take the bowls off like Jeff said? He is the expert here. I learned a lot about these engines from reading his posts. Did you try the adjustments he mentioned? If they don't respond to adjustments you'll also know if there is a carb problem. Mine are very sensitive to adjustments. Open and close the float by hand see if the needle sticks. See if the bowl looks clean, check float level like described above. The level usually changes when the needle and seat are worn.

[BigJohnson]

Here are the pics of my carbs.

Hmm, the picture doesn't look like any carb in my book. Closest to a type A but not the same.

[daveswaves]

Hmm, the picture doesn't look like any carb in my book. Closest to a type A but not the same.

Its a type A but with the midrange tube, lowers the atmospheric pressure in the fuel bowl at midrange to lean it out. We usually plug the tubes with a BB.

[ChrisCarsonMarine]

There are bleed restrictors in the intake side of the block,in the lowest part of the bypass covers,facing down,and in.The holes themselves are about 1/8 if i remember right,and a small plastic restrictor was tapped into the hole,then staked in place,to prevent it from backing out.Time,and overheats make them dissapear,this negatively effects idle quality.Worth checking,and most folks don't know their supposed to be there.