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Thread: strange starter behavior
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08-09-2009, 12:37 AM #1Team Member
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strange starter behavior
evinrude 135hp crossflow v-4, 1975, 135583e, if it matters...
the motor starts easily and runs like a champ... at least it does if the starter motor works. seems the starter motor has become intermittent on me. sometimes it works and zings the motor right to life, other times i just get a single click, not a series of clicks like you'd get with a weak battery, just a single strong click. i've tried other known-good batteries and they have the same behavior. trouble shooting process:
1] the click seems to emanate from the solenoid assembly, as when i have my wife turn the key to get the click, with my finger on the solenoid, i can feel the relay or whatever it is inside there clicking.
the following are things i have observed when it does not work normally:
2] i have observed that somtimes, the starter motor turns weakly and slowly without jumping up and engaging the flywheel
3] sometimes it jumps up weakly and engages the flywheel but can't turn it
4] sometimes i just get the click and nothing visible at all occurs with the starter motor
5] moving the starter a little bit by hand to move it off of dead spots on the commutator does not seem to have any effect on whether it will work or not, but i have not tried every position all the way around, just tried it once or twice
and finally:
6] sometimes it works completely normally, but not often enough to chance it on the lake. sometimes it works after i rotate some of the thick power and ground wires on their lugs to freshen the contact, but sometimes it doesn't
weird, huh?
what would you suggest for the next step in troubleshooting?
-Peter
__________________
"such action would be a bad scene, a very bad scene"
-one of the warnings in the Seloc manual. classic!
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08-09-2009, 12:53 AM #2
clean all grounds with a wire brush. If still not working properly jump the solenoid to see if thats the issue.
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08-09-2009, 07:09 AM #35000 RPM
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The starter could have an intermittent problem, but the single click you describe is usually the sign of a bad starter solenoid with internal corrosion. They are fairly inexpensive so be sure to buy an OEM solenoid from a dealer and not try to jury-rig an automotive one.
This would also be a good time to get the starter rebuilt and inspect the battery, connections, and cables closely.
You are dealing with 34 year old components so there is likely more than one problem affecting the starting.
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08-09-2009, 10:18 AM #46000 RPM
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http://www.aa1car.com/library/voltage_drop_testing.htm
Read this and use it. If you learn to use it life will be good!Gary
I don't know enough, to leave well enough alone.
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08-09-2009, 11:16 AM #5Screaming And Flying!
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Finch that is a great article, thanks for posting it!
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08-09-2009, 11:34 AM #6
One of my starters did this and I replaced the brushes and it worked like a champ after that. I found that the brushes were worn down so far that the springs below them would not apply enough pressure to the stator to get a good connection. Plus it helps to clean all the gook out.
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08-09-2009, 11:37 AM #7
The solenoid has a round copper disk inside. When the solenoid is activated the plunger contacts the disk sending current through the solenoid. When this happens the disk builds up carbon from the voltage arcing, like on a set of points. This disk does rotate some from vibration. If you end up on a carboned up spot it will not allow the current to pass. Other times it will do fine as it contacts on a clean spot.
Replace the solenoid. Always use a marine certified solenoid. Auto solenoids are dangerous, not ignition protected.
As posted above the starter can have a dead spot as well. If you have current going through the solenoid then replace the starter.Never argue with an idiot. They drag you down to their level, then beat you with experience.
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08-09-2009, 12:27 PM #86000 RPM
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I work on cars for a living butt electricity is what it is.
First CLEAN the battery posts and clamps, don't look at them CLEAN them. If I had a nickle........ Get rid of the Wing Nuts. They don't use them on air plane wings, so they don't belong on boats either!
One way I check a circuit quickly is to hook a head light to the wire as close to the terminal as possible. In this case to the wire from the key at the solenoid. I touch the other wire from the headlight briefly to the positive post of the battery to make sure of the connection (light glows) then attach it to the negative post.
Doing this puts a higher demand on the circuit. If you turn the key to the start position but starter doesn't crank and you have a bright head light the key portion of the circuit is good.
Carefully (you are dealing with potential arc welding capability) bridge the large posts of the solenoid, starter should crank. If there is a safe way..... the best is to use a GOOD set of jumper cables. Hook one end to the starter side of the solenoid and briefly touch the other cable end to the battery side of the solenoid. Why. Cuz the jumper cable isn't connected to the battery and able to arc weld to what ever it comes in contact with when/if you drop it, when surprised. Connect to the nut not the threads, remember arc welding will displace metal, those threads will be damaged.Gary
I don't know enough, to leave well enough alone.
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08-09-2009, 12:32 PM #96000 RPM
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"You let the factory smoke out of it. All products have smoke installed in them from the factory. You can not purchase this smoke. The problem is, when you let the smoke out of it, the part is ruined and you have to get a new one. I wish I could find a place that sold the factory smoke.
Just like the person asking for a new ignition coil because the sparks were all used up.
I'll say one thing about that factory smoke though, it sure stinks when you let it out! The aftermarket smoke doesn't smell as bad!Gary
I don't know enough, to leave well enough alone.
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08-09-2009, 12:35 PM #106000 RPM
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08-19-2009, 03:05 AM #11Team Member
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thanks, guys. turned out to be the solenoid. i took the starter and solenoid to an old skool starter and alternator rebuilder that does a big business with hot rodders here in southern cal. when they bench tested the starter, it worked every time they put the current to it on the bench tester. then they tested the solenoid. they hit it 10 times, and it only passed current across the big lugs once. so i got a new replacement and all's been fine since.
thanks for all the tips and good reads.
-peterLast edited by pcrussell50; 08-19-2009 at 12:42 PM.