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  1. #1
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    test stator, eliminate it run on battery

    Hello guys, I'm working on my 1989 Evinrude 150 v6. I get no spark.
    It was getting spark on 1-1/2 cylinders, but after messing with it I get none.
    I read through the manual and checked the stator with my DVM.
    I checked the ohms, and they seem good. I'm confused about the voltages, is this DC or AC or what?? I see 60v out of the power stator on AC, nothing on DC, and nothing on peak detect DC. The stator signal wires seem to yeild .9v on AC which I guess is good.

    I have tried to remove the flywheel to inspect the stator, but it won't budge.
    Impact wrench and puller, and it just bends the bolts. Heat is next, but I suspect this is going to melt the stator? Any tips to remove the flywheel?

    I'm wondering if I can eliminate the stator and see if the power pack is working and heck just run the motor on battery anyway. Can I just feed 150v DC to the power pack? I can rig a 12v to 150vdc pretty easily, a 12v to 120v AC is even easier.

    If I get nowhere, I'm going to replace this ignition system entirely, with a MegaSquirt controller and use 12v coils and run on battery.

  2. #2
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    Quote Originally Posted by nimblemotorsports View Post
    Hello guys, I'm working on my 1989 Evinrude 150 v6. I get no spark.
    It was getting spark on 1-1/2 cylinders, but after messing with it I get none.
    I read through the manual and checked the stator with my DVM.
    I checked the ohms, and they seem good. I'm confused about the voltages, is this DC or AC or what?? I see 60v out of the power stator on AC, nothing on DC, and nothing on peak detect DC. The stator signal wires seem to yeild .9v on AC which I guess is good.

    I have tried to remove the flywheel to inspect the stator, but it won't budge.
    Impact wrench and puller, and it just bends the bolts. Heat is next, but I suspect this is going to melt the stator? Any tips to remove the flywheel?

    I'm wondering if I can eliminate the stator and see if the power pack is working and heck just run the motor on battery anyway. Can I just feed 150v DC to the power pack? I can rig a 12v to 150vdc pretty easily, a 12v to 120v AC is even easier.

    If I get nowhere, I'm going to replace this ignition system entirely, with a MegaSquirt controller and use 12v coils and run on battery.
    you need to take it to a shop that works on them before you do something to it that will destroy that motor. You sound like a car motor guy and outboards are a complete different animal.

  3. #3
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    rust on flywheel effect stator voltage?

    yep, I'm a old race car guy..Greg, I didn't learn to build cars by taking my car to the mechanic. The engine doesn't run, it is worthless junk as-is.

    Finally got the flywheel off. The stator LOOKS fine. Can't see a reason it would be bad if the ohms read right. I noticed some rust on flywheel magnets. Could that lower the output voltage?

    Did a compression test and saw 80 on all cylinders. That seems too low, but it is exactly the same across all 6 cylinders. I dunno, might just ****can this engine.

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by nimblemotorsports View Post
    yep, I'm a old race car guy..Greg, I didn't learn to build cars by taking my car to the mechanic. The engine doesn't run, it is worthless junk as-is.

    Finally got the flywheel off. The stator LOOKS fine. Can't see a reason it would be bad if the ohms read right. I noticed some rust on flywheel magnets. Could that lower the output voltage?

    Did a compression test and saw 80 on all cylinders. That seems too low, but it is exactly the same across all 6 cylinders. I dunno, might just ****can this engine.
    damn shame to **** can the engine if the kill switch is malfunctioning or stator isn't working properly. pretty simple fix.

    OMC crossflows run low compression 80 lbs. isn't bad at all. Do you have the proper factory manual?

  5. #5
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    try this

    go here and this will help you trouble shoot it. It just takes some basic troubleshooting knowledge to figure out what it is. It most likely is something like the kill circuit or stator if all cylinders are out. If it's just one bank then it most likely is power pack or stator. This troubleshooting info is something you should save if your going to be doing this very often.

    http://www.rapair.com/LinkClick.aspx...language=en-US

  6. #6
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    not the kill switch

    yes i have the manual. checked the kill switch first thing, it works correctly.
    It can be bypassed at the powerpack.
    Manual says if I don't get 150volts replace the stator.
    I get 60volts peak AC, that is my kinda my real question, is that correct?
    They call for the test done with a special peak volt meter, is that just peak voltage or something else? My expensive DVM meter does peak voltage readings. What the heck goes bad in a stator that looks sealed up and in pristine condition and has the proper ohms, so the windings would appear to be intact. Air gap too big, worn down the surface from the rust and debris acting like sandpaper?

    So 80 is a good compression? I think the manual says 100 is minimum, but I'm checking it cold since it doesn't run, and I think it supposed be checked warm.

  7. #7
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    You can't read the peak voltage with a stock volt meter. The peaks the stator puts out are more like spikes not a sine wave. . check the key switch and kill circuit by removing the black with yellow strip wires from the plugs going to the power packs and see if it fires. If it does you might have some diodes bad in the wire loom on the engine or the wiring in the boat for key and kill is bad. Read the trouble shooting I sent you the link and you should be OK..99% of the time if something Ohms out OK them it should work. The stator is just wires wound on a steel core, they heat up and the vanish insulation melts away and then it shorts out. If the stator ohm in spec I would start looking for something else.

  8. #8
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    Got it running

    Well, I cleaned up the little rust on the flywheel, put it back together,
    and got it started.
    Doesn't want to idle though as yet. Will mess with it more tomorrow.

  9. #9
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    If a stator has a single shorted turn, it will look good, ohm good, and not put out full voltage.

    hope it helps
    John
    To fish or not to fish? What a STUPID question.

  10. #10
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    Don't overlook low cranking speed. It should be around 350 rpm for best starting and ignition output. Check your starter condition, voltage drop at each cable, and that the battery is strong enough. That also may explain why your compression is 80# and not closer to 90 which most motors like yours have.

  11. #11
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    Since you have the OEM manual I would suggest you read up on the theory of the ignition system to learn how it operates. It will make troubleshooting much easier and you won't need to ask some of the questions you have asked. Not trying to be a hard a** about this either, but the information is right there in the manual. If you don't understand the system, you can't diagnose it properly.
    Never argue with an idiot. They drag you down to their level, then beat you with experience.

    3 X APBA Formula V Nat'l Champion
    APBA Formula V US-1
    It took me 29 years to become an overnight success.

  12. #12
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    seems OK

    Yeah, thought cranking speed might be an issue as I didn't actually measure it. But it certainly SEEMED like it cranked just fine. I was using a new and fully charged optima yellow-top battery. I'm not familiar with outboards, so maybe it needs to crank a lot faster than I think. I did hook up my charger/starter this time (which outputs 16v) to be sure. but with it disconnected, it starts up on just battery too. Dunno. If it is that sensitive to battery, I'm afraid I'll be left stranded pretty easy after running the stereo for a day?

    I have read through the manual. What it doesn't explain is what the peak voltage reading is. Just says to use a meter I've never heard of.
    I've built lots of electronics, and have an oscilliscope (although still packed up haven't seen it lately).

    Sorry if I ask dumb newbie questions!

    Played with it today, and bumped up the idle and it took a little while to warm up, but then it idles ok and I lowered the idle. Might just needed the cobwebs blown out, it had been sitting a while the former owner told me.

    Next is take it out to the river and see how it goes.

    Still would like to build a four-stroke outboard, and a 13b rotary looks like the way to go. We'll see when I get time to pursue that.

  13. #13
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    runs great

    Well, took the boat out on the river and lake a few times last week, and it runs great! starts and idles perfect. So now I can just enjoy it.
    I did buy a new power pack for it that I didn't need, and they won't let me send it back, so if anyone needs a power pack for a 89-91 Envinrude 150hp V6 with 35amp stator, let me know.

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