OMC Solid Motor Mounts

[BarryStrawn]

For the upper on my crossflows, I have always pressed appropriately sized shims made from aluminum plate through the spaces in front and behind the crossbar. Makes them nice and firm without the harsh vibration of a solid cast upper. Damn near free also. I also have a Second Effort solid aluminum mount and I don't remember it driving any better. It also looks a little weak compared to the steel OEM mount. I'd want to crack check it frequently. I use the old Land&Sea cast aluminum lowers that fit under the stock covers. Works for me.

Have also heard of folks with solid uppers cracking exhaust towers. I think they were also dry stacked which might have been part of the problem.

[Rickracer]

I saw your other post about the L&S Posi Steer, and so I checked and guess what? Dun da dun dunt, that isn't in L&S's price sheet anymore either, which I have begun to discern means they quit making it. It does look like a good idea, and probably not too hard to do.

[Rickracer]

...and free is always a welcome benefit.

[Nosubforcid]

Freakin L&S morons that was one of the only products they made that was worth a damn. If I can drive a looper powered XS2003 107 mph with a plate and high durometer rubber mounts it will work on 99.8% of all lake boats. I have a CAD drawing of one archived on cd here somewhere. I post it here when I find it.

[Laker]

posi steer!!! Yess I forgot about that! I loved it on the early V4s. Vibration control but positive stearing!! Very very simple too! gonna have to make up some of those!
Gary????

[racer]

The 1985, 3.6 mount is also a good choice on a v-6, very stiff but not hard on the adapter/mid section. Raced with the shimmed upper and pinned lowers for years.

[Robert]

V-8 Sea Drive P/N 984468

[dan agnew]

i dont think anybody makes upper omc mts and sells em commercialy.
we just did a friends upper mt on his 225 omc on a mirage that kept popping the skeg off when he jumped out of the throttle boat was so sloppy that it felt like skating on ice in or out of throttle. we pulled powerhead and drilled two 1/2 inch holes thru upper mount plate into rubber mt and drove stainless steel rods into the rubber then welded the rod tops to the plate. no movement and no skeg breaking.

Danny
lowers same way just a rod thru the mount

[argo1919]

I think the above post was sort of confusing the tiller shaft splines tend to get pounded out if you run lowers only. Running the upper by itself will not cause excess spline wear. I am not excited about solid mounts on any lakeboat run a new set of stl or sl mounts and add a L&S posi-steer plate or equivalent. The plate limits deflection in the mounts on the steering axis but doesn't unnecessarily stiffen the mountings in any other direction.

2" lower solid motor mounts to
...140hv 87 jonhson

[krank21]

I can do the lowers but not the uppers. I might just have to see if I can get some made, if there's a big enough market.

I know this is an old thread but I'm in search of solid uppers and lowers for a 2001 225 Rude Ram, any chance you have some or still make them?

[gfinch]

I see your already here. From the Allison site. "I've drilled a hole thru the mounts and then drive a tight fitting pin thru them, cut off excess and install. it's still got the rubber surface to case that will give slightly. Theres a guy on Scream & Fly that makes a solid upper mount also makes the Taylor 16" mid section. Sam B?"

[Speed Jr.]

I know this is an old thread but I'm in search of solid uppers and lowers for a 2001 225 Rude Ram, any chance you have some or still make them?

Sam Jenkins has them in stock.

[krank21]

Sam Jenkins has them in stock.

Awesome! How do I get a hold of Sam Jenkins? Sorry I'm new to the forum and to fast boats to be honest.

Let me know, thanks!

[krank21]

Found Sam and sent him a note, thanks!

[gfinch]

That's who I meant LOL.