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Thread: Inline 6 Carb swap
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12-05-2009, 08:37 AM #16
I have a set of Inline 140 carbs if they will do you any good
11-20 -08 1980 14' Allison
2018 Carbon Fiber 15' Allison
homemade 15" 90 Yamaha
nice and quick 7900 rpm
Happiest driver on the board. Chris Carlson reeds are the way to go. CCM
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KQyBn...er_profilepage
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12-05-2009, 11:21 AM #17
porting
Youre right Sam I forgot about the 10/8 reed cages, most of the 1150.s had the 10/10. I agree that compression comes into it with vettes, dirt bikes jetskis etc, the only thing I was trying to point out is that port timing is critical and it does make a difference. The problem is it does not make a difference on its own. There is no value to having the ports open longer or wider if you don,t have the mixture behind it to fill the cyl during the opportunity time. Flow velocity and volume all come into it. I know I am preaching to the converted here, but it is the dynamics of what is happening that is important. You can hog out the reed block and create more volume behind the carb but you have to have additional flow to fill that void or the charge will be late getting to the combustion chamber.
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12-05-2009, 11:34 AM #18
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12-05-2009, 12:04 PM #19
The sure way to sure HP is start out with sure HP from the factory.
With that said, I have a 150 "D" port drop on powerhead. The "D" port was only used on the '73 longshaft motor. Racers claimed it was the next best thing to a XS "J" powerhead, maybe, maybe not, but when it's rebuilt it will make a sure 150 HP. $400 + shipping.Bruster's Mercury solid motor mounts, details here:
http://www.powercatboat.com/Bruster/Bruster.htmlI'm been living in fast forward, now I need to rewind real slow....
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12-05-2009, 04:42 PM #20Screaming And Flying!
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We Should Allways
Just copy what Merc did. Open the ports. And look at a T2 and Smmmoooth things. Then Merc copied the racers and made racey motors. Will the circle be broken. The 8-10 reed cages are meant to get more flow to get gas even to the top clys.... note the different reed stops and styles of reeds. If ya can't get a mill use a hand held one.
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12-05-2009, 04:53 PM #21
dennis and i think u have to manny poststripps
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12-05-2009, 05:00 PM #22Screaming And Flying!
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Damm Fool Club
Is Dennis in town? Do you Konw anything about head porting.
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12-31-2010, 07:01 PM #23Junior Member
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12-31-2010, 08:56 PM #24
You can, but there will most likely be no difference. There is a great difference in the porting of the 140/150 that needs the 10/10's for power.
As a wild guess I'd think the 10/8's improve fuel economy and possibly low end torque ... so putting them in a 90 or 115 might slow it down a little getting over plane/pulling up skiers and use more gas without making any more power or top end speedLast edited by Mark75H; 12-31-2010 at 09:00 PM.
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01-01-2011, 02:28 AM #25Junior Member
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Thanks for that. I was asking as when we stripped engine to rebuild it, it appears to have incorrect reed block from late model 90 fitted (10/10 non banjo). Was concerned that this would constrict the engine, and as the 10/8 are NLA as a new part thought I might have more luck sourcing reed blocks from 150 if I can't find good used 10/8 reed blocks.
Mine is 1988 115 which I understand to have similar, if not the same porting as the 140/150.