Hello From Alaska, and now a little about......

[ak49er]

...boats.

I'm running two types....

1) 1976 Barracuda, Flat Bottom Dragboat, with a "Roller" 454, Basset Headers, Casale V-Drive. Currently disassembled following rod bolt failure.

2) My current runner, 1977 Hawaiian, Jacuzzi 12YJ, 460 Ford, Offenhauser Single Carb Tunnel Ram, with Basset, Traditional Meg tip Headers.Demon 850

To the Hawaiian 460, I have added a drilled thermostat, a Watts Bypass Flow Control Regulator Valve, added three dumps, one for the Watts Valve, and two for dumps from the thermostat housing.

I added this mod when I switched from water jacketed aluminum exhaust logs to headers. It made sense as the author explained that it would allow for full block volume, while allowing for proper operating temp, and fially to control block pressure. This system works great, as designed.

I bought a water control valve from CP Perf, and I want to add it to the system. While replumbing I found that one -AN to -AN fitiing, for the water injection manifold, at the header, had a "restrictor" Style -AN fitting, whereas the other side had a regular "open" -AN to -AN fitiing.

I have seen restrictors before, and they are the type that you tap threads into your "Tee, Check Valve" for, but I have never saw them right at the header, nor can I find any of this type of fitting at any of the big parts houses.

I think I can do away with this restricted fitting and go "open" on both sides, now that I will be adding the hand operated header feed valve.

Any thoughts?

The image of the boat is from before the addition of the headers.

[ak49er]

Ok,.... no help, I'll just figure it out.....

so I omitted the odd ball -8AN M to -8AN M Orficed connector, and am going to plumb in with a Hardin Marine Flow Control Valve, a hnady little lever valve with three different orficed settings. I will also source a 12 volt solenoid, to create my own water shutoff, independant of the installed check valve 'tee'.

Attached are images of the progress I have made plumbing the cooling water systems using Swagelock tubing. I am probably adding a few pounds, but the install looks nice and clean. I have only had two make two bends, with two more remaining, the rest of the runs are from decomissioned scrap from a plant.

Aslo included is an image of the slip in headers I am going to run this summer. I have the Basset Traditional Style header, with the Long Collector and 5" Megaphone tips. I want to see if they sound good. I was thinking of drilling the mounting bolt holes at (Looking stern forward) Port- 4 O'Clock Staboard- 7 O'Clock. want the holes a slow as possible to hide the bolt head, but I don't want any water and carbon to dip out on the stern "deck".

Any body do this already?

[gatahiti]

is that in your basement?! Kick ass pressure tank with the stickers I run logs so i dont know about headers and the water plumbing sorry :/

[BIGA]

i have bought the restrictors -8 male on each end from rex marine in calif. before. try www.rexmar for more info.

[ak49er]

BIGA what was you application? I would like to think I can get away with the selection of three restrictor orfices at the Hardin Marine Flow control valve, and not really need one at each exhaust, header injector, manifold.

[Darkside's Calling]

Rather than running the manual orifice valve and an electric shut off valve look at a "Banderlog valve" www. banderlog.com . They are RPM based elec valves with a flow valve included. I put one on my SBC/OMC 800 Tahiti with my Bassetts and love it. On at > 1500, off at < 1500, or you can opt for a 2000 rpm on/off, and a 10 second full throttle cut off for dry stacking.