No water pressure/flow

**Sum0n3** · 04-19-2009, 11:48 PM

I ran my 88 175hp vro today on bunny ears and noticed that no water was coming out of the pisser and the engine got warm quick(one head was a bit hotter than the other).

I pulled the lower to check the pump and the impeller looks to be in good condition. The only thing I noticed is the part that connect to the feed pipe in the mid, is a bit chewed up. Also I pulled both thermostats and noticed a bit of crap in there, like weeds and stuff.

Any idea what the issue might be? Would I not get any water flow out of the pisser with stuck t-stats? Any other problems that would prevent water from flowing?

Thanks in advance for any help.

**inspectorlance** · 04-20-2009, 12:26 AM

Make sure the pisser is not plugged. They plug real easy. If you have debris in the thermostats, then you likley have debris blocking the pisser.

Did you fire it off with the thermostats removed to see if you have flow ?

**Sum0n3** · 04-20-2009, 12:34 AM

Yes I did fire it up with the t-stat removed, but it was only for a second(tank was already out, and it ran on residual). I didn't see any flow from the t-stat holes, but as I mentioned, it was only a second or two.

**inspectorlance** · 04-20-2009, 12:42 AM

I have been playing around with some water issues lately too. Mine takes about 20-30 seconds to have water come out the heads when the thermostats and covers are removed. I am also running mine in a 100 gallon tank, not on the hose.

Got my issues all fixed, and running great now.

**inspectorlance** · 04-20-2009, 12:51 AM

Of course I should mention that I am only running a OMC powerhead, but its a Merc lower. Im sure it makes a difference.
I have had high water pressure and hign flow issues, and it still takes 20 to 30 seconds to get flow.

**baja200merk** · 04-20-2009, 02:44 AM

depends on t-stats and water routing... looper vs crossflow=different story

**Sum0n3** · 04-20-2009, 02:50 AM

I guess I might have jumped the gun on the no flow.. I'll just throw in a new pump to be safe and put the lower back. Hopefully I will get flow after running it for a while, but if not what else should I be looking for? Is there any thing else that can be clogged with weeds and what not? Anyway to flush it if so?

I would like to get as much possibilities down as I only have access to the boat on the weekends(120 mile drive), so I would like to be armed with as much knowledge as possible come friday..

Also on another note, what would be a bad compression number to rebuild. Meaning I have about 100psi average on all holes but one which is about 90. Do you think it would survive the summer, or should I be thinking about a rebuild now. Also I did the compression test on a cold engine, as I didn't want to run it with no flow. Not really sure how much effect that would have.

**EMDSAPMGR** · 04-20-2009, 04:20 AM

If you've got debris in the thermostat housing, you could also have some inside the heads. Did you remove the head covers and have a look? The low compression may be nothing, but it is getting close to the 10% variance condemning limit. To rest easy, I'd pull the head on that side and see what that cyl and piston top look like. If you've got pits on the head and piston face, you may have a bad ring. Also, pull the intake side cover and see if the rings appear intact- are the rings carboned up? If you see a lot of carbon around the ringset, run some Bombardier Engine Tuner through the engine. This process typically will help get rid of carbon on the piston skirt and ring areas, helps idling and may aid compression.

**Carter Powell** · 04-20-2009, 12:09 PM

Here is a little thing you might try! Take an air hose with a rubber tipped nozzel and blow air into the pee hole. I have found that many time this is the magic trick. Most times it will clear out the problem completely if the air pressure is 100PSI or better.

Carter Powell

**laserfish** · 04-20-2009, 01:37 PM

Here is one for you. Last year fired up the 'rude before the first fishing tournament on the muffs and had no flow and the warning buzzer started going off really quick. Figured it was probably the impeller since it had been a few years since it was replaced. Pulled off the lower and the impeller was full of ants. Pulled the t-stats, full of ants, pulled the head water jacket covers, full of ants. You cannot believe how many ants we flushed out of that motor. When we store it for the winter now we spray inside the prop with ant spray really well. Not that this is your problem, but it is not always the obvious. You just never know what might be stopping the flow.

**Sum0n3** · 04-20-2009, 01:41 PM

I think I'll try to run it first to make sure I hve no flow. If that fails I'll pull the heads and check the passages, and get a look at the pistons then. I'm assuming I will need new head gaskets? I also will probably run a can of the engine tuner to see if it helps. On the compression front the manual varies. Over the years they changed the limits, from 5 psi to 10 psi, then 15psi, and now it's a variance of 20%(according to seloc that is).

The compressed air seems like a good idea, but wouldn't it just blow all the dirt back into the engine? Maybe I'll just remove the hose from the back of the engine and then blow through it . Also how about pulling the rear cover where the pisser plugs into.. Would there be anything that can clog up in there?

On another note, what is a good place to buy parts? I was going to order direct from Evinrude but just wanted to see if there is any other places. Mainly need the t-stats, water pump kit, and some spark plugs for now.

Last but not least, do the t-stat kits come with the paper gaskets for the covers? I seen some pics but they don't show the gasket. Do people just use silicone or get them seperate?

Thanks for the help guys!

**Sum0n3** · 04-20-2009, 01:45 PM

Laserfish, that is a thing to consider. Tho I didn't see any wildlife in the t-stats.

Plus the last owner had the prop covered with plastic and taped up. Tho I have a feeling that something is clogged. The head water jackets you mentioned, do they require you to pull the whole heads? Or is it just covers above them or something. I really need to review the manual, still a bit lost.

**laserfish** · 04-20-2009, 01:55 PM

If ants were the problem, you would have probably seen some by now. The covers on my old crossflow can be removed without removing the heads. This exposed the water jackets. That would be the last thing I would try in your situation. I was kind of glad they were in the motor and not the boat itself. Wood ants can do a lot of damage.

**Sum0n3** · 04-20-2009, 02:17 PM

How do i figure out if my motor is a crossflow or a looper? Also you say it's the last thing you would try; is it a hard job to do? Sorry for all the newbie questions.

Edit: Ok it turns out my engine is a crossflow.