pressure regulators

[ford_forgotton]

Thats EXACTLY what I was looking for. Thank you very much.

[ford_forgotton]

well, took a look at the plumbing today, since I was ripping out all the interior.

Appears to match exactly as posted in the diagram, but no gate valve. Looks like a straight shot from the pump housing into the cooling system. There is an inline fitting for hooking up a garden hose tho. It will get used tomorrow if I can scrounge up a battery that actually holds a charge and I run the engine.

Is the gate valve really needed, or is straight feed OK?

[Propless]

As long as your working on it I would add a gate valve at the pump for 2 reasons.

One, it can help with bringing up your motors temp in cold water by slowing down the water flow (not as much of an issue with log manifolds because they preheat the water a bit).

Two, when the boat is in the water the water outlet from the pump is below water level. Someday if a hose fails or comes off, its nice to be able to just go back there and shut off the valve until you get the hose back on.

[ford_forgotton]

Will do. I agree with the reasons completely.

[OldSleekOlds]

im looking at all kinds of pressure regulators and wondering how many gph or gpm my 455 olds with logs will need. anyone have a clue?

also wonder what kind of psi i have incoming from the pump.


thanks in advance!

The pump pressure can run over 300 psi at WOT. A 455 Olds does not handle water pressure well. The sheet metal cover that covers the timing chain seals oil and water. The part that seals the water gets rusty and pitted. There are also water ports in the intake manifold that like to leak. Once you get the leak started, you get to take it all apart and replace gaskets and possibly other parts.

Pressure regulators work well for controlling air pressure. They do not work as well with water. Lake water is loaded with dirt, weed stuff, sticks, rocks, and lots of other junk that a regulator can NOT deal with.

If you are interested in engine life, you will want your boat engine to get hot enough to remove condensation that is always present. That's a good reason for a thermostat. The best way to insure a good flow of cooling water at a pressure that will not cause a problem is to use a "dump" type water bypass valve. I have mine set to maintain about 10 psi in the engine. I have had this type setup for over 20 years without a problem. The dirty lake water does not prevent the valve from working properly.

Hi-Tech Performance now supplies exactly what you need to do it right.

http://www.hi-techperformance.com
http://www.hi-techperformance.com/Wa...ass%203714.JPG

Looks like this.........



Good Luck

[boatermike]

i like to think stuff out and possibly right out of the box. when i go to a site and see what is obviously about 50 bucks worth of normal plumbing stuff just stuck together with name and a price of 160 bucks im thinking thats an item i'll opt to not take out of the box.

while im out of the box i gotta wonder what kinda control that system would have with nothing more than a hose my finger barely fits in being responsible for dumping off a possible 300 psi . wouldnt the restriction of the dump hose flow limits over ride the little pressure relief valve and result in higher than 10 psi?
doesnt anyone worry about the little thermostat getting clogged ? any clog in the system would over heat it. havent heard anyoine say they get clogged there.
i guess i just gotta find out for myself and build what i think will work best and face the consequences.

2 things for sure, its over priced like crazy and you know it has worked good for you for a long time in i suspect many boats.

just micro analizing this crap outta boredome in my dome head

[Propless]

If you are interested in engine life, you will want your boat engine to get hot enough to remove condensation that is always present. That's a good reason for a thermostat.

Oh boy here we go, thermostat kits.

I have to admit I'm not a fan of them. Do they work, yea. They can help get your water temp up and have a more consistent temp, all good things.

Are they necessary, no. Why complicate your cooling system to gain 10 or 20 deg of water temp? I'll assume the condensation you mention would show up in the oil, right? Do you really believe a BB anything (or even a SB) in a jet boat has any trouble getting enough oil temp to evaporate some condensation from the oil ??

And as far as water temps, remember this is a open loop cooling system. Just because you temp gauge shows a lower temp than may be considered optimum in a car it doesn't mean the block temp or oil temp is any lower. Your heating fresh cool lake water to get that temp, not recycled warm/hot water from a radiator.

This is just my opinion, but these boats have survived a long time without thermostats and pressure bypass valves. And in mild form, if you do things right they will work fine for a long time to come.

[OldSleekOlds]

This is just my opinion, but these boats have survived a long time without thermostats and pressure bypass valves. And in mild form, if you do things right they will work fine for a long time to come.

Hey, don't hold back. Tell us how to do it "right". What size orifices in the fittings? What size water hoses? I'm sure you have all this information.....why not share it? Be sure to include the power range for each hose/orifice setup.