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  1. #16
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    If you know the size exactly you want buy an ROC (ROCK) drill bit, but be sitting down when you ask for the price, but that will be the last drill bit you ever buy in that size unless you break it. All the rest of the suggestions are great. Center Punch and Pilot Hole, 250-500 RPM drill press with constant lube (I use cold cut it's like a wax). irwin Unibits work well as well on softer stuff less than 304 SS, I would not try to drill anything over .250" with one though.

    Dave

  2. #17
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    Aug 2001
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    Channahon IL.
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    If you are drilling,milling or threading stainless the ONLY cutting fluid to use is TAP MAGIC. it turns stainless in to BUTTER. I have used it for nearly 30 years. They make a formula for aluminum also. The Steco Corporation--1-800-643-8026 or 501-375-5644. They are in Little Rock, Arkansas. Believe me it works!!!!
    POPS


    \


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  4. #18
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    Aug 2010
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    lake havasu
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    Quote Originally Posted by yachter55 View Post
    I have a stainless tank and I need to drill holes for the fuel sender.I have broke three bits so far and have not gotten a hole drilled.one got red hot,one broke,the last just wore flat.I was using a 7/32nd bit as I was going to use sheet metal screws.so who makes the best small bit?
    I know, old thread, but a different way of doing things.
    Drilling/cutting metal generates heat. It begins at the microscopic level and increases in size as long as the source is still present. Most drill lubes are a lubricant. Lubrication is intended to keep metal parts from actually touching. In the case of a drill bit the edge that cuts must burn away the lubricant before the cut can begin. Try motor oil....it vaporizes at a high temp.....bees wax, low temp, nothing at all? With sufficient pressure the cut begins immediately. Two options....water based coolant, as used in a mill...all it is water, an antibacterial to keep things
    from growing in it and a rust inhibitor to prevent oxidation of the tooling.

    Or plan "B'
    High pressure, low to medium speed......for a short period of time...and on to the next hole..do the same thing.... what happens is....the bit gets a little warm at the cut edge...it can take it, it's harder than stainless....the beginning of the hole gets hot, it's time to let that spot cool down and move to another spot. The second you let the hole get hot it's a done deal, you just work hardened the metal and it will wreck the cut edge of the bit next try.

    I used to drill vent holes in motorcycle brake rotors...sometimes 100 holes in each rotor.....2 bits...no lube of any kind and done in half an hour. I use another rotor for the pattern, clamp the 2 rotors together, chuck the finish size bit in drill press, run the drill through the pattern rotor just long enough to barely start the hole..just push and let off..do all the holes, remove the pattern rotor, chuck a bit 1/3 the size of the finish hole in the chuck. Drill with high pressure till it start to cut...and STOP go to the next hole and repeat...do 20 holes...check for heat...you might feel barely warm, but the bit won't even be hot enough to burn your finger...and if the bit doesn't get hot, it won't get dull either....

  5. #19
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Washington N.C.
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    I saw them machining Crankshafts at Weber Motors. Cutting with no fluid, including drilling the oil journals. Explained to me that the chips took the heat away. Amazing.

    Old school I use turpentine, slow speed and never let it slip. I have drilled a half inch hole in half inch stainless steel with a Brace and bit at sea in an emergency. Started at 1/8 inch and worked my way up.

  6. #20
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
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    Wow , youve got my vote !!! I ALWAYS USE 135 DEGREE BITS
    Last edited by Skater 32; 04-13-2011 at 08:25 AM.

  7. #21
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    Aug 2008
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    Stoneville NC
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    plow of the bit needs to be small and sharp. sharp rake also. Smaller the plow of the bit the less pressure it takes to move the metal.
    20ft Gambler with Merc 260
    Too many projects to liist..

  8. #22
    Join Date
    May 2008
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    KEYSTONE HEIGHTS FL./ Moncks Corner Sc
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    The best bits for metal are carbide. Being an aircraft structure mechanic I have no time for a dull bit. None of them last forever. You get what you pay for but a good carbide bit will drill through titanium, steel or any other alloy but your drill speed is the key to making the bit last. When they get hot they are junk. Boelube is some really good stuff for lube. Made by the Boeing company.
    The evidence of poor quality lingers much longer than the success of meeting a budget.

  9. #23
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
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    Florida
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    All the above things are good advice low rpm, cobalt is the best, but an inexpensive bit will work. The best lub for stainless drilling or tapping is coconut oil. I know you think I'm nuts but try it you will see it works well on steel also and cheap at Walmart. This is what we use in the machine shop at the Space Center (Kenndy) and believe it or not for Aluminum use Goop yes hand cleaner no grit type.

    BobK
    Bob'K

  10. #24
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    Jul 2013
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    California
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    What's Kenndy?

  11. #25
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    Aug 2006
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    virginia
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    cracked clevis nuckle.....since i machine my own boat parts out of 316 stainless steel.....i use carbide drill bits, carbide end mills and cutting fluid. at 500$ for a pair of these they're out of their minds.

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    Last edited by SUNKIST; 03-24-2015 at 08:45 AM.

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