Some Twister II questions, rest. project..

[Jeff_G]

While I'm not famaliar with the housing with the water ports, the T2 did use a number of different housings. The differed in the exhaust tube lengths and water dump. I had one that dumped water directly into the exhaust at the adapter plate right at #6. To prevent any water intrusion I welded it shut and drilled holes downward in the cavity to allow water to dump inside the housing without going into the exhaust right at the powerhead. This way everything cooled yet no water in the PH.
I believe what they were trying to do was similar to water injection tuning, since the tube on those cylinders was so short, hence no tuning.
It didn't make any difference either way running a XS powerhead on the T2 mid.

[dale robertson]

Unless my memory has failed me AGAIN the T2's didn't have the power port in the side of the piston. If this is true you could probably run the '75 and OLDER 1150 pistons, which would have the high domes you're looking for

I remember it the same way you do, but sometimes I can't remember what I had for breakfast. I never could understand why they didn't use this tranfer port set-up in the stock motors.

[Droll]

Some follow up pictures and some new questions...




Extra housing.... no fitting BUT it did have a small hole ( 1/16" ) tru the housing .




This is the housing from my T2, hole inside the fitting are ? 3/16" .... Where did this hose go or come from ??



Xtra housing + the T2 on the right .... was this BIG hole from the factory ??.
( the long tuner ends just above the hole )


And now a new question...



The baffle plate in the middle are from my T2, the one on the right came in a box with the T2 ( not for the T2 I know ), take a close look at the bottom.... bout are cut down some , same mechanic probably did bout ?, as the came from the same place ? .
The baffle plate to the right are unmolested..



This picture shows bout T2 baffle plates....

I think I know WHY the baffle plate was cut down some, uncut it would NOT be possible to bolt it down to the dsh ( would hit the steel plate for the pan ).
So my question would be, should there be a distance plate between powerhead and drive shaft housing ?? , a 1/4" plate should do the job ? ( shaped like the gasket between PH and DSH ) .

The outer cover was cut down too, will probably make a new one as it looks so diy ...

A parts manual for the T2 would have been nice ....


Arne Kjetil

[R.grover]

i do know of sum brand new inline 6 tower of power blocks if twister block is the same

[Droll]

i do know of sum brand new inline 6 tower of power blocks if twister block is the same

Probably same casting, but different machining ( bigger ports and more of them... ), the front from the T2 will be a direct bolt on to the 1972 140hp + 1973 > 1979 ( 90 > 150 hp ) block, but ...







Picture of the underside of the block with the pans fit....well doesn't fit .



Also taken from underneath the pan.....someone wasn't sober when they fitted this pan, everything are way of ...lots of space on starboard side...less than nothing on port side...

Well figured out the problem, should be an easy but time consuming fix.


Arne Kjetil

[Dave S]

What kind of glove is that..... high temp for hot exhaust.

[Droll]

high temp for hot exhaust.

You see the white stuff on the ground ?? it's cold





Ran into a little problem with one of the carbs today ....



This is definitely not good , old damage, looks like corrosion..



But thankfully the rest of the carbs were good.

Anyone got any ideas about how to fix, or are the only option to find some replacements ??,


Arne Kjetil

[Bruster]

Seems like the carbs shouldn't be to hard to come by. They are probably the only componet on this motor that is not normally the subject of catrostrophic failure.

You see the white stuff on the ground ?? it's cold





Ran into a little problem with one of the carbs today ....


This is definitely not good , old damage, looks like corrosion..


But thankfully the rest of the carbs were good.

Anyone got any ideas about how to fix, or are the only option to find some replacements ??,


Arne Kjetil

[Droll]

Seems like the carbs shouldn't be to hard to come by. They are probably the only componet on this motor that is not normally the subject of catrostrophic failure.

Found myself 3 carbs some time ago....



Some new questions...

Front prop shaft bearing ( the roller bearing just behind the nose cone ) are there any other bearing # for this bearing?, other than the 31-38681A1 ??

Reason for this asking... planing to use a later model SSM ( still "classic" super ) and want to replace some of the bearings since I had to open it up anyway....

Got the parts manual for the old SSM, but there are some minor changes ... this later model uses a slightly different prop shaft ( longer splines, same length as the SSM VI ) and therefor requires a slightly modified bearing ( still same Timken ( cone #HM81649 + cup #HM81610 ) bearing but modified ).

Are this the same bearing as used on the later SSM VI ?? (#31-35924T1 )

The differences between old and new bearing...

• Old bearing are a stock Timken cone #HM81649 + cup #HM81610
• New bearing uses the same Timken bearings, BUT the cone got an enlarged hole half way true ( to make room for the splines )

Arne Kjetil

[Mark75H]

You may be asking questions that only someone like Steckbauer would know

[Droll]

You may be asking questions that only someone like Steckbauer would know

To simplify the question some.... can the bearing used on the later SSM ( still super ) be bought or does the bearing have to be modified by me.


Left one are from the later SSM, right one are a stock bearing used on the early SSM units.

Any reason for this change ??, did they have some problems with the original way ??

Arne Kjetil

[Droll]

Got some new questions....

What's the story about the casting at the end of the arrow in the picture, since they made the casting they probably got some idea about it ??



And now a more serious question....
In this picture I have mounted the Speedmaster I probably gonna use, it's a bit newer model..and it got less holes in it ( don't want the engine to be unusable noisy ), some pictures of the unit that came with the T2 here. ( holes in front needs to be welded since they does weaken the housing ( already cracked.. )..

Plan to block the BIG hole on the leg ( removable plate ), would this hurt the performance ?? .




Plan to weld some of these holes too, just leave the 2 at the top ??

And last, a simple one...
Length of the driveshaft ABOVE leg/adapter ...


Arne Kjetil

[Raceman]

I wouldn't think it'd hurt it. The gearcase adapter plate still has what's probably adequate exhaust relief itself, and so does the gearcase. Where you're gonna find the problem is getting the boat on top. The T2's are pretty boggy off idle anyway, being SUPER over carbed combined with the efficiency/non slip of the Speedmaster & prop, and that's where the extra exhaust relief is real helpful...................... gettin' on top.

Along the same lines, I never could tell any difference top end whatsoever between an offshore and std. leg on V6 engines, but the difference in off plane acceleration was substantial.

[Raceman]

And last, a simple one...
Length of the driveshaft ABOVE leg/adapter ...


Arne Kjetil

That may not be so simple. There're two different thicknesses of Speedmaster adapters that look almost identical. I think there's about 3/4 inch difference between the two, and have bought T2's with both thicknesses, but DO think it was originally a T1 to T2 type difference............. just don't remember which originally came on which. One of 'em will take a std 1500XS gearcase with it's production length driveshaft and the other won't.

[Droll]

That may not be so simple**

I know , that's why I asked about the shaft height ABOVE leg.....

The adapter I got mounted are 3-3/4", also got a 2-7/8" adapter..

With the 3-3/4" adapter I got 1.5" of the shaft above the leg top ( minus pan plate and 2 gasket... )

One of 'em will take a std 1500XS gearcase

My money would be on the 3-3/4" adapter..... as I got an adapter with the hole/guiding tube for a shift shaft.

Arne Kjetil