Some Twister II questions, rest. project..

[Droll]

Got myself a restoration project for the winter/next summer, therefore I got some questions....

First some pictures....



First question: Compression.... does this engine got any higher comp. than a regular inline, if so... how did they manage to do so ??

• Same stroke as the other inlines
• Same length on the rods ??
• Same block as some other inline engines ( different port map thou )
• Pistons ??, some differences from the std inline..( rings ++ )

Reason for my question.....my engine had been stored in a barn for some time, and a friend of the previous owner needed some parts for his 1500....
So I need some rods and 6 pistons.....planing to use some high dome 3 ring pistons ( recommended by one of the inline gurus here , Jeff G ) + late style inline rods ( cracked style )

Would my choice in parts give any disadvantages ?? any change in the engines comp. ??

Also thinking about it's fuel recommendations, could this engine run on pump gas ?? we got 95 ( link to tech sheet ) And 98 ( link to tech sheet ) lead free...no more,no less.....
Retard timing I know

Next question....are looking for some steering bars, or if anyone could provide a drawing/pattern I could make some.....

Would like to get it restored back to a running engine, if so it will be used ( NOT abused )
Probably got more questions later


Arne Kjetil

[Jeff_G]

Send me a e-mail, I'll trace some OEM bars for ya.

[largecar91]

I am sure Jeff will answer most of your questions but blocks are different, cranks have different firing order. Pistons came in various configurations. Porting was different between stock engine plus it was different between T2's depending on if it was stock or a team motor or was ported by a privateer. I think the 3 ring pistons are the way to go. I am just about done with a pair of T2X's and I used 3 ring pistons. They will be good for durability and like you I will not run these 2 engines to their peak RPM's so they should be fairly reliable. I also have a spare set of bars.

[Droll]

but blocks are different,

After they are machined yes, but they used the same raw casting on other non Twisters too ( mine got the casting number 852 5033, some info here

cranks have different firing order

Yes but the same stroke....

Pistons came in various configurations.

Since I am missing 6, I will use 6 normal inline pistons, finding 6 NOS .015 T2 pistons might be difficult

Porting was different between stock engine plus it was different between T2's depending on if it was stock or a team motor or was ported by a privateer

I know....my guess based on what I have seen/read...this engine was stock, not any fancy porting ( the ports ARE a lot bigger than a normal inline )+ I know about one other engine with the same portmap ( or very close ).....only mod I can see are it's polished inside...polished from the reeds and all the way to the cylinders....

Arne Kjetil

[Droll]

This picture are from the port side of my T2, under the pan ( lots of holes, covered by duck tape....), found a fitting with a cut of hose ...



Picture shows the location for the fitting, what's inside here ?, high pressure water/water dump ?, did the hose go into the cowl tru the hole above ? if so ? where to/from ??

Factory or someones mod ??

Got another T2 driveshaft housing too, whitout this fitting.

Powerhead was separated from the rest when I got the engine....therfore I don't know anything about this spesific engine .

Arne Kjetil

[Raceman]

Since I am missing 6, I will use 6 normal inline pistons, finding 6 NOS .015 T2 pistons might be difficult

Unless my memory has failed me AGAIN the T2's didn't have the power port in the side of the piston. If this is true you could probably run the '75 and OLDER 1150 pistons, which would have the high domes you're looking for.

I'm not absolutely sure about the power port, (haven't been in one since the '70's) but just thought I'd throw it out for discussion so you can check before you start ordering parts.

[Bruster]

Unless my memory has failed me AGAIN the T2's didn't have the power port in the side of the piston. If this is true you could probably run the '75 and OLDER 1150 pistons, which would have the high domes you're looking for.

I'm not absolutely sure about the power port, (haven't been in one since the '70's) but just thought I'd throw it out for discussion so you can check before you start ordering parts.

Seems like most all of the replacement pistons are power ported. If your motor doesn't have the ports it doesn't matter, so there is 1 less part number to deal with. I think what you'll find is low & high dome and 2 ring & 3 ring configuration.

[LightNBug]

The T2 is where the power port originated. That is the reason for the third transfer port window, to match the power port. Not sure what is available in pistons anymore, I haven't researched it for a few years. I would recommend using three ring pistons for general use.

I'm still looking through notes as I have time, trying to find an answer to your water fitting question. I think it was added to some of the later motors, but I don't remember why.

[LightNBug]

I found some notes on this but they are not real clear. It seems this fitting was added to have a dump path for water that was going into the exhaust. Looks like I tried different size fittings here as well as restrictors in the bottom exhaust adaptor where the water dumped. I ended with a 5/16" opening in the bottom plate and a 1/8" fitting coming out the side. What I don't remember is if the normal overboard fitting was blocked or left open. I think it was left as normal. Hope this helps. If I find more info I'll let you know.

[Droll]

I'm not absolutely sure about the power port, (haven't been in one since the '70's) but just thought I'd throw it out for discussion so you can check before you start ordering parts.

I think what you'll find is low & high dome and 2 ring & 3 ring configuration.

The T2 is where the power port originated. That is the reason for the third transfer port window, to match the power port. Not sure what is available in pistons anymore

Got the same answerer from another inline guru here on S&F, he told me this was basically the same as the power ports used on the production engines ( different way to skin the cat .. ).

His advice was to use 3-ring high dome PP pistons .



Nice BIG holes , the middle hole was probably lowered to make a better spread of the air/fuel.... for better cooling of the pistons... some extra hp was only a bonus.



Add this and we got a nice directed flow...got a little file job on this one old damage, all cylinders are fine .

It seems this fitting was added to have a dump path for water that was going into the exhaust. Looks like I tried different size fittings here as well as restrictors in the bottom exhaust adaptor where the water dumped. I ended with a 5/16" opening in the bottom plate and a 1/8" fitting coming out the side. What I don't remember is if the normal overboard fitting was blocked or left open. I think it was left as normal.

All info does help , so this was a simple way to cool the tuner/housing ....OK this gives me the direction of the water flow...next question would be from where...
Haven't looked for any fitting on the block/covers yet but there should be one ?
Only fitting I have seen was located high up on the exhaust cover, assumed this was for the tell tale...will look closer next time I am out there...

Could this "mod" tell anything about the year produced, I am might consider this T2 to be a later model ??

• This water mod
• 2 tube carbs
• Double fasting of it's cowl ( rubber hold down + pins on the top.. )

But then the "Circle C" block...might tell another story....( only got the same casting, porting are T2 )


Biggest problem...solved , this one threatened the whole restoration project but now it's all good..


My crankshaft.... nice



Same crankshaft, some $ later..... he might regret he took the job, but it sure looks nice ... a BIG to David at Marine Crankshaft .



Anyone got anything on these ??, found them at the bottom of one of the parts boxes I got together with the T2.... no prize for telling me they are for the T2/T2x , probably only used on the earliest models ??


Arne Kjetil

[LightNBug]

Never saw anything like the seed rake looking gizmos. Looks like the same screw pattern as the reed blocks. Maybe some type reed stop??

The purpose of the water fitting was not to get water to cool the exhaust, rather to stop water from going into exhaust. A early idea for "dry stacking". If you look at the water flow you should see that it dumps into the exhaust housing from the cavity where the fitting comes out. The idea was to block off the dump into the housing and give another exit point so the water could still flow and not cause an overheat. I found that if all water was blocked from entering the exhaust housing everything in there would melt including the water pump. That's the reason I had a restrictor in the dump cavity to restrict flow but not stop it. For what it's worth, I never saw any advantage. My advice would be to block off the fitting, but be sure water dump inside cavity is open.

[largecar91]

I have a C6 at home and they do not use stops like that.

[Raceman]

I'm seein' something on your crankshaft that I don't like UNLESS the picture is fooling me. How 'bout postin' another one showing the main bearing journal BELOW the _1 rod throw, or even a pic of the whole crank.

Incidentally, of the 3 T2's I have now, and the 2 others I had in the past, I've never seen the fitting on the mid. Don't know if that means all my stuff was earlier, or if it was a mod later.

I'm gonna take my bore scope to work tomorrow and look in one of the T2 powerheads for the power port. I sure wuz thinkin' they didn't have em.

[Droll]

I'm seein' something on your crankshaft that I don't like UNLESS the picture is fooling me. How 'bout postin' another one showing the main bearing journal BELOW the _1 rod throw, or even a pic of the whole crank.

Or a big image here, What do you see ??, making me worry at bit here... I might know what you thinking about, but it should not be a problem ( got a dog )..

Incidentally, of the 3 T2's I have now, and the 2 others I had in the past, I've never seen the fitting on the mid. Don't know if that means all my stuff was earlier, or if it was a mod later.

Got another T2 mid too, no fitting there .

I have a C6 at home and they do not use stops like that.

Never saw anything like the seed rake looking gizmos. Looks like the same screw pattern as the reed blocks. Maybe some type reed stop??

I don't know where the came from, only know they do fit the T2 reedcage ( and it's 12 of them ).... maybe it got something to do with some other parts I have, take a look at the picture in this post..... it's NOT home made.



Arne Kjetil

[LightNBug]

If you are referring to the bottom picture of the lower pan as pertains to the water fitting, it looks like it could be part of the same set-up.