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10-11-2008, 08:10 PM #165000 RPM
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WOW!! what a great find and project!! Wish I could find one like that. Good luck
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10-11-2008, 08:22 PM #17
It'll be itchy, but from the pics the hull is otherwise in great shape. good luck
Jim
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10-12-2008, 12:49 AM #18
I've never done this either my friend.....taking baby steps for the time being. Being of a mechanical background (militarily and recreationally) and having played with alot of various stuff over the years, I'm starting to get a feel of how this boat is put together.....which is something I didn't have when I started test cutting on it. I'll continue with small incremental progression until I get the jig situated (with some outside help of course) and the remainder of the floor / core out. THEN, I'm sure I'll have questions concerning preparation and application of the new materials. End case scenario, if it needs cut transom to bow, then so be it; I have a Hydrostream decal on my truck now so I'm in it to win it!!!
One initial question.....what is the BEST way to support the hull when removing the core??? Would adding 4 extra adjustable bunks to the trailer to support the pad and wing area along with existing bunks suffice OR make templates of the bottom beginning at the transom (port to starboard)and fabricating 4-5 more to support the hull along the bottom on the way to the bow....then tie them all together to make sure the bottom stays square? (big ass jig / cradle) Am I over-analyzing this and making it more complicated than it has to be??? - If so...someone please share their expertise. I know someone can pipe in here and clear this up.
JeffLast edited by Sonik; 10-12-2008 at 01:27 AM.
1976 Hydrostream Viper - 2.5 EFI
Resto Thread Here
2010 Go-Pro Stuff
"The true soldier fights not because he hates what is in front of him, but because he loves what is behind him." -G. K. Chesterton
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10-12-2008, 01:09 AM #19
Wow,
Mine required more than finger digging..... a 3" cutoff to see where I was at. I know the original construction was marginal at times apparently, but I could only find an occasional pinhole in conjunction with the 1" crack on the port side floor. I'm going for the floor and starboard sections next after I rig up some additional support to keep me from putting my big feet through the bottom. The finish isn't perfect by any stretch but considering I haven't seen another 32yr old gel to compare it to up close(outside of a few pics of my twin viper owned by Ronnie), I'll take your word for it. I'll say it again, Bernie, Quentin, Jeff, (and others I may not know or have forgotten) kudo's to you guys for making the commitment, learning the process, and saving some of the coolest hulls from the scrapyard for all of us to enjoy!! Hopefully come spring I'll be able to join the ranks and say I managed to get mine right!! TY
JeffLast edited by Sonik; 10-12-2008 at 01:28 AM.
1976 Hydrostream Viper - 2.5 EFI
Resto Thread Here
2010 Go-Pro Stuff
"The true soldier fights not because he hates what is in front of him, but because he loves what is behind him." -G. K. Chesterton
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10-12-2008, 08:45 AM #20
This makes a really good point about hull inspection. The "thump test" can fool you easily. Here's a boat with a solid core, but wet, and ready to delaminate. It may sound solid, but the reality is, all used streams need a new core. I doubt there's a better example of a pristine used boat anywhere, stored inside for years, yet still wet.
Everybody should know, when I worked for a Stream dealer in the 1970's, these boats were shipped uncovered, so there's no such thing as a boat that's never been rained on, no matter how the owner took care of it.
PeteLiving in the Freedom provided by Bud Conner and his fellow warriors.
R.I.P. my Heathen Brother
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10-12-2008, 06:44 PM #21
Pete, I tend to agree with the possible exception of boats that never were rigged or used. If it never had the core breached, MAYBE not enough moisture got into the balsa to begin rot.
It's amazing that boats like mine are still around. The core COMPLETELY dust or mud, and not broken in half and sunk.
Sonic, regardless of the rebuild method or materials, you will have a BETTER boat than the one that left the factory.OK, I got down off the porch and ran with the big dogs....kinda sore now....think I'll just lay here in the flowerbed for a while...
1976 Hydrodyne 18 I-O
1969 Allison 15R, 1973 Merc 1500 (project)
1995 Harris toon
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10-12-2008, 07:19 PM #22Screaming And Flying!
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10-13-2008, 08:13 AM #23
Good luck with your project, Jeff. I would have never guessed this. The boat looks darn near new, we tried to poke an awl in a bolt hole in the transom (still hard as steel), and had we not hit that spot putting in the new steering we never would have known. We pounded on that thing for an hour after Jeff found the spots and it sounds like a rock everywhere except the areas indicated. I hope it is isolated and you don't have to shred the entire hull. I do know when your done it will be solid.
When you get the upholstery peeled off I will cut some new wood. I would try to do the work while it is on the trailer if it was mine but if you want to put it on the roll around cart I spoke of just let me know. I don't know what support issues are involved when recoring. I've never done that.
I'm sure it sucks about now but this spring when your running about 80 you will feel better about it. We need to see if that glass I have is useable. I have two different types and sizes and you are welcome to it. Maybe we can cut off a couple samples and take them to someone that knows what it is.
RockTeam Junk
No sparkling wiggles in here, only dump truck grinches.
"Screamin Heathen"
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10-13-2008, 08:43 AM #24
Good thing you found it now, before it was too bad and going into the off season.
Good luck.'86 Valero YT, 2.5 200
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10-13-2008, 09:49 AM #25
as far as the itchy part of the job,while at my local fiberglass supply store I mentioned the itchy part to them and they suggested before washing up your arms and such to give them a wipe with vaseline and it pulls it from your skin..it helped a lot..good luck with the project mines just about done so I know what your dealing with !
Variety of stuff
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10-13-2008, 04:41 PM #26
Rub baby powder on all exposed body parts before starting. The glass won't stick that way because your pores already have powder in them.
Looks like a fun project. Even though you could get away with just replacing the soft spots, the overall results will be better with a re-core at least from the seats back. Otherwise you will have hard and soft spots that may affect handling.
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10-13-2008, 05:23 PM #27
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10-13-2008, 05:34 PM #28
OOO ya
i couldn't do it... i bought one and it was rotten in the same spots.... and it went all the way up passed the seat box and up under that shelf in the front... its terrible... mine wasn't as beautiful as yours is though...
heres mine
i wish i would of stuck with it because i would of like to say that i did it as well. but i found my vking so i got rid of it.... but stick with it and if your gonna do it i suggest you do it all make sure it is solid... so just make sure it is solid so you dont loose that beautifull boat and good luck and keep us postedLast edited by BeefKid; 10-13-2008 at 05:39 PM.
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10-13-2008, 05:59 PM #29
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10-13-2008, 07:43 PM #30