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  1. #151
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    This weekend would be a good time for that Jeff. The temp has fallen again so I'm turning off the heat in the garage, I'll be in the kitchen cooking all weekend.

  2. #152
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    Well,

    Its been some time since I updated this thread. At any rate, I've been humpin' lately trying to get some things accomplished as its going to get the new core laid in it by someone more experienced than I. I have 5 more days of grinding before it leaves home so I have alot to do yet.

    Let me just say that anyone that does fiberglass work for a living...my hat is off to you. Good core that is still solidly laminated is absolutely no fun to get out. Either I'm making this alot harder than it is by using the wrong tools/methods, or it just is what it is. I don't know but man is it slow going. A few pictures of my progress today.....

    As you can see from a few of the pictures, there was some wet core outside of the stringers on the port side. But everything over 2 inches outside the floor register is dry as a bone which makes my job none the easier.









    1976 Hydrostream Viper - 2.5 EFI
    Resto Thread Here
    2010 Go-Pro Stuff

    "The true soldier fights not because he hates what is in front of him, but because he loves what is behind him." -G. K. Chesterton

  3. #153
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    Well it's about dam time! I can relate to the grinding. I'm pretty sure I got my grinding diploma from my boat. There is no fast way, but you're definitley getting there. Keep it up
    Quote Originally Posted by mrcrsr View Post
    and you could always add more hp!!
    There is only one way to avoid criticism: do nothing, say nothing, and be nothing. –Aristotle


    Quinten


    86' Hydrostream Vking YT, 2.4 Bridgeport EFI
    (Rigging and interior in the works)
    88' Hydrostream Voyager, 2.4 200 Merc
    Boat of The Month Feb. 2009
    resto here, http://forums.screamandfly.com/forum...d.php?t=144414
    Dedicated to you Dad, I miss you! 1935-2008

  4. #154
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    Ya still gotta get the core out of the pad too.
    Work, eat, sleep and grind.

  5. #155
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    Quote Originally Posted by Quinten View Post
    Well it's about dam time! I can relate to the grinding. I'm pretty sure I got my grinding diploma from my boat. There is no fast way, but you're definitley getting there. Keep it up
    I know Q, I've been slacking something terrible but this week I'm going to be busy.

    Quote Originally Posted by Riverman View Post
    Ya still gotta get the core out of the pad too.
    Work, eat, sleep and grind.

    Fortunately Jeff, the pad core in the rear will come out easily as it has been damp at some point, I just chose to leave it in until I get the outer stuff taken care of first as I can stand on the bare hull with no worries the way I have it bunked. but for today, I'm whooped and am going to bed!
    1976 Hydrostream Viper - 2.5 EFI
    Resto Thread Here
    2010 Go-Pro Stuff

    "The true soldier fights not because he hates what is in front of him, but because he loves what is behind him." -G. K. Chesterton

  6. #156
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    Grind bish! *points*

  7. #157
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    Since the bottom is no longer able to retain its original shape while on a trailer, I would remove the trailer & support the hull by blocking it up with cinder blocks & wood at the outside edges of the chines & forward center. Laying out that much new glass/coring, you should also consider its shrinkage rate. To compensate, weights can be applied during curing. What core material you going with?

  8. #158
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    Quote Originally Posted by AirRide View Post
    Since the bottom is no longer able to retain its original shape while on a trailer....

    ....you should also consider its shrinkage rate. To compensate, weights can be applied during curing.
    Can you say contradiction?

  9. #159
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    Quote Originally Posted by AirRide View Post
    Since the bottom is no longer able to retain its original shape while on a trailer, I would remove the trailer & support the hull by blocking it up with cinder blocks & wood at the outside edges of the chines & forward center. Laying out that much new glass/coring, you should also consider its shrinkage rate. To compensate, weights can be applied during curing. What core material you going with?


    AirRide,

    I have gone to great lengths to make sure the hull is properly supported. The trailer currently has 7 bunks. 2x6 6ft long along the pad, outside of that are 2x4 8ft long, outside of that are the original 2x6 bunks that came on the trailer that are 7ft long, outside of that are another set of 2x4 bunks 6ft long. almost all of the area between the strakes has been supported making sure the load has been distributed equally. The foremost roller on the trailer is making contact with the bow area just aft of where it turns upward to head to the bow eye and the bow pad height has been adjusted so the hull sits evenly on all the bunks while contacting 2 rollers lightly. i have pictures of this a few pages back should you want to look at how I supported the hull.

    As far as your question regarding materials, I'm in the process of hammering that out right now with the individual who will be laying in the new core. I am simply doing the demo as I'm not comfortable with laying in the new stuff with my limited fiberglass knowledge. It will be going back together as a balsa core boat if thats where you were going with that question.

    Jeff
    1976 Hydrostream Viper - 2.5 EFI
    Resto Thread Here
    2010 Go-Pro Stuff

    "The true soldier fights not because he hates what is in front of him, but because he loves what is behind him." -G. K. Chesterton

  10. #160
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    Glad to see you hard at it....

    I just wonder about removing the healthy part of the core. Why would it be less desirable to core around it? The core material is 1X2 blocks, which could be laid individually if required to fill erratic edges. Someone with more knowledge than me know why this would not work? Is it the joint between the old and new sections?

    Or is it just that you have to remove it to be certain it's solid?

    Oh, Jeff. GET BACK TO WORK!
    OK, I got down off the porch and ran with the big dogs....kinda sore now....think I'll just lay here in the flowerbed for a while...


    1976 Hydrodyne 18 I-O
    1969 Allison 15R, 1973 Merc 1500 (project)
    1995 Harris toon



  11. #161
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    Lookin great Jeff,I cant wait till I see this Hotrod tearing up the water

  12. #162
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    Quote Originally Posted by oldskier View Post
    Glad to see you hard at it....

    I just wonder about removing the healthy part of the core. Why would it be less desirable to core around it? The core material is 1X2 blocks, which could be laid individually if required to fill erratic edges. Someone with more knowledge than me know why this would not work? Is it the joint between the old and new sections?

    Or is it just that you have to remove it to be certain it's solid?

    Oh, Jeff. GET BACK TO WORK!

    Well Bernie,

    I went back and forth on this and after listening to a few differing opinions, I decided that I'd just get rid of all the old core along the running surface and aft of the bulkhead. There is ALOT of good core in this boat but it would be my luck that I'd decide to leave section here and a section there thinking it was dry because it looks dry on the edges and find out later there was a pinhole in the outer skin i missed, and have since soaked all the NEW core I just replaced. The risk, in my mind, isnt worth the chance even though the grinding really really really sucks. So, I'll most likely end up leaving some bow core in as most of it is good as well, but that is the only old core I'd consider leaving as it isnt exposed to the elements / wet occupants / etc.

    I'm not sure about old/new weaknesses but I'd imagine if done properly, there wouldnt be a problem. I'm sure there will be differing opinions on this as always but thats why I like this site.....lots of input.

    Jeff
    1976 Hydrostream Viper - 2.5 EFI
    Resto Thread Here
    2010 Go-Pro Stuff

    "The true soldier fights not because he hates what is in front of him, but because he loves what is behind him." -G. K. Chesterton

  13. #163
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    Jeff you might want to ask your re-corer if it should all come out. He may say no? Would save you both a bunch of work.

  14. #164
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    Quote Originally Posted by Riverman View Post
    Jeff you might want to ask your re-corer if it should all come out. He may say no? Would save you both a bunch of work.
    Jeff,

    Took you long enough to reply!! LoL. We had discussed this already Jeff and the answer is no, it doesn't all have to come out.....BUT, in my twisted pseudo-educated mind, I feel better having all new core along the inner and outer running surface so I know exactly what I'm working with in the end. The bow area, which in in really good shape, thats a different story....and we'll cross that bridge when we get there.

    I suppose one way to look at it is...do it once...do it right...I keep hearing that. And I just can't stomach the idea of doing it piecemeal only to have an issue later on becuase of something I/we overlooked. Maybe I'm over analyzing and creating more work for myself than need be. I suppose we'll see in the end As always Jeff, I appreciate your input


    Jeff
    1976 Hydrostream Viper - 2.5 EFI
    Resto Thread Here
    2010 Go-Pro Stuff

    "The true soldier fights not because he hates what is in front of him, but because he loves what is behind him." -G. K. Chesterton

  15. #165
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sonik View Post
    Well Bernie,

    I went back and forth on this and after listening to a few differing opinions, I decided that I'd just get rid of all the old core along the running surface and aft of the bulkhead. There is ALOT of good core in this boat but it would be my luck that I'd decide to leave section here and a section there thinking it was dry because it looks dry on the edges and find out later there was a pinhole in the outer skin i missed, and have since soaked all the NEW core I just replaced. The risk, in my mind, isnt worth the chance even though the grinding really really really sucks. So, I'll most likely end up leaving some bow core in as most of it is good as well, but that is the only old core I'd consider leaving as it isnt exposed to the elements / wet occupants / etc.

    I'm not sure about old/new weaknesses but I'd imagine if done properly, there wouldnt be a problem. I'm sure there will be differing opinions on this as always but thats why I like this site.....lots of input.

    Jeff
    When I did the partial replacements on mine, I built "dams" around the area of the new core, just folded up the edge of the mat and saturated it. I continued this process during replacement, to insure the new core would not be saturated by an older section, or, if a new section ever became damaged. I tried to make a core "mosaic", with independant sections.

    The balsa is extremely easy to cut and shape to butt against other sections. The most critical area for strength is the pad, and out to the first chine on either side, and the entire cored area from the transom foward about 4 feet.
    Living in the Freedom provided by Bud Conner and his fellow warriors.
    R.I.P. my Heathen Brother






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