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  1. #136
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    "funny enough, thats exactly where we were when those pictures were taken"

    I was pretty sure...the boat on the beach in the alley, the pics of you and Q on the gulf side...right?

    Everything works out right, I'll be down there in April, hauling the boat to Lake Placid.
    OK, I got down off the porch and ran with the big dogs....kinda sore now....think I'll just lay here in the flowerbed for a while...


    1976 Hydrodyne 18 I-O
    1969 Allison 15R, 1973 Merc 1500 (project)
    1995 Harris toon



  2. #137
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    Well,

    Its post-holidays more or less and I'm slowly trying to back at it. I finally got the pads off today and noticed both left and right had writing on them. "1005" I wonder if the numbers signify the template style or some type of production number?



    I also want to fire this out there and get some opinions before I commit to anything. I have this jackplate and have no idea of its origins or age. It is bolted to the transom with 6 bolts. It has a sliding plate which sits in channels and has 2 bolts on each side to lock it in. Here's the part that scares me....I'm sure it was fine with the V4 but the ends of side bolts have been turned down smooth and sit in holes drilled in the plate. There is nothing attaching the plate to the mount other than the grooves it sits in and 4 (bolts) or "pins" if you will......2 on each side. (Pics below for reference)

    Before you guys all tell me to buy a "good" jackplate listen to my reasoning then feel free to chime in. The transom has 10 holes in it.....4 which have dowels and have been sealed ( BIA pattern I believe? ) and 6 that the jackplate bolt through that is a much larger footprint than the std pattern. I like the idea that the bolt pattern is larger so it helps distribute the load over a wider area (in theory anyway). Would the existing plate be sufficient IF I figured out a way to thread the side bolts into the mount plate instead of them just holding it in a fixed position like dowels? Obviously I'm concerned about a side load that casue a failure or may force or open the channels enough for the plate and motor to seperate from the hull ( I may be over-thinking this )

    I ask this only because I, A.) don't want to drill any more on the hull than what is absolutely necessary...and B.) If I go back to a std jackplate using the BIA pattern, I'll have 6 holes that will need to be filled, sealed and 'masked' or 'matched' somehow. Keep in mind I'm not replacing the transom in the resto as its dry and in good shape with no gel cracks in the splashwell corners. Fire away.........






    1976 Hydrostream Viper - 2.5 EFI
    Resto Thread Here
    2010 Go-Pro Stuff

    "The true soldier fights not because he hates what is in front of him, but because he loves what is behind him." -G. K. Chesterton


  3. #138
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    put a nice aluminum plate on the transom to cover the holes and distribute the load and buy a real jack plate

  4. #139
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sonik View Post
    Before you guys all tell me to buy a "good" jackplate listen to my reasoning then feel free to chime in. The transom has 10 holes in it.....4 which have dowels and have been sealed ( BIA pattern I believe? ) and 6 that the jackplate bolt through that is a much larger footprint than the std pattern. I like the idea that the bolt pattern is larger so it helps distribute the load over a wider area (in theory anyway). Would the existing plate be sufficient IF I figured out a way to thread the side bolts into the mount plate instead of them just holding it in a fixed position like dowels? Obviously I'm concerned about a side load that casue a failure or may force or open the channels enough for the plate and motor to seperate from the hull ( I may be over-thinking this )
    MY Vking had the same plate with 6 holes in the transom.....

    Quote Originally Posted by RONNIE View Post
    put a nice aluminum plate on the transom to cover the holes and distribute the load and buy a real jack plate
    ....... is what i did, looked good

    buy a real jackplate
    Quartershot T-3R 15" 3.5L E-Tec 1.62 Sportmaster


  5. #140
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    From the pictures it looks like there isn't much keeping it from spreading, and in the big picture a new or different jackplate is cheaper than fishing for a motor. But then again it's easier to tell someone to spend more money than to do it myself.
    Chet Olson

  6. #141
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    The Bob's 2.5-5" convertible plate isn't too expensive.

  7. #142
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    Ok ok....sometimes my mouth gets ahead of my brain and then both conspire against my better judgement.....or lack thereof anyway. I was on a $$ saving kick yesterday......
    1976 Hydrostream Viper - 2.5 EFI
    Resto Thread Here
    2010 Go-Pro Stuff

    "The true soldier fights not because he hates what is in front of him, but because he loves what is behind him." -G. K. Chesterton


  8. #143
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    Hows the progress? How much of the core is still bonded?
    Chet Olson

  9. #144
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    Quote Originally Posted by samari View Post
    Hows the progress? How much of the core is still bonded?
    I guess the depends on whether you're a "glass half full" or "glass half empty" kinda guy really . I'm slackin' something fierce. only bad places were the outer core from the floor register outwards about 3-4 inches and the pad core in the rear. Bad enough to do it all I suppose.
    1976 Hydrostream Viper - 2.5 EFI
    Resto Thread Here
    2010 Go-Pro Stuff

    "The true soldier fights not because he hates what is in front of him, but because he loves what is behind him." -G. K. Chesterton


  10. #145
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sonik View Post
    Ok ok....sometimes my mouth gets ahead of my brain and then both conspire against my better judgement.....or lack thereof anyway. I was on a $$ saving kick yesterday......

    The jackplate isn't that pricey but I understand the desire to avoid more holes in the wood. The holes can be filled and sealed with resin and wood dowels.
    I'd get the new jackplate first and see how much of the old holes still show. A lot of people assume a bad transom if they see an aluminum plate covering it up.

    Only 2 1/2 months 'till spring! GIT 'ER DONE!!!!
    OK, I got down off the porch and ran with the big dogs....kinda sore now....think I'll just lay here in the flowerbed for a while...


    1976 Hydrodyne 18 I-O
    1969 Allison 15R, 1973 Merc 1500 (project)
    1995 Harris toon



  11. #146
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    2 1/2 months??? More like 4 for us in Midwest... Me, I guess in March I can start the itchy process on my Switzer, but I plan to take a week off at a time to really make sure I get her done in time.

  12. #147
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    viper

    better do it mint so you can sell it to me!!

    what a sweet viper
    i want it.

  13. #148
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sonik View Post
    I'm slackin' something fierce.
    Hey hey now. Even I was outside the past few days working on the V4. Git'er dun!! Before you know it spring will be here and you need time to tinker with the small stuff.

  14. #149
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    Quote Originally Posted by Riverman View Post
    Hey hey now. Even I was outside the past few days working on the V4. Git'er dun!! Before you know it spring will be here and you need time to tinker with the small stuff.


    Ya ya..... I'm workin on it!!!! I'll PM you in the near future Jeff for a phone # so I can soak up a whole bunch of your valuable time!!! Plan on pics and progress in the next week but have alot going on right now on the homefront. I also have a backup plan should I not have the time or resources to get it ready for the IL river run in june.....to be continued....


    Jeff
    1976 Hydrostream Viper - 2.5 EFI
    Resto Thread Here
    2010 Go-Pro Stuff

    "The true soldier fights not because he hates what is in front of him, but because he loves what is behind him." -G. K. Chesterton


  15. #150
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    It's pretty tough ya know to work on a boat when yer drinkin' rum at 2 am sitting in front of a computer....for shame.

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