So apparently I have a winter project.....

[Sonik]

After what I thought was a pretty thorough pre-purchase inspection, I've found that my boat has suffered the same fate as almost every other surviving hydrostream. I was rigging the new teleflex dual rack and cables and was fishing a cable through the starboard rear when I shifted my weight and heard a 'crack'. I knew right then and there the work to come should I choose to keep it....and I think am up for the challenge.

Off came the new V6 and misc rigging and I brought the boat home. I found 2 soft spots directly in front of the fuel tank shelves (right on top of the trailer bunks which is why I most likely missed it when checking the bottom) right outside of where the floor is glassed in. So tomorrow I begin my excursion into the wonderful world of itchy and scratchy with some test cuts to see how far the damage has spread. Everything ahead of the seatbox feels and sounds solid but I won't be happy unless I know for sure what the core in the pad area looks like.

So, I'm going to try and document, as best I can, learn something throughout the process, and hopefully end up with a solid setup come spring and be able to say I did it myself(with help from those more educated than I). I'm not going to split the boat as I want to retain the original rubrail and gel so from what I read of Jeff's (Riverman) resto, I have my work cut out for me.

Got the boat home this afternoon and removed the interior and carpet and will start with removing the fuel tank shelves followed by some shallow cuts to see where I'm at. Took a few pictures but they're marginal at best......

I want to give a big thanks to Randy "Rock" for being such a stand-up guy and offering his knowledge, skills, and expertice to a newbie. Without his involvement, I would have most likely never repowered the boat or found the problem with the hull. Thank you sir....


Never finished the work on the hot foot....

The spot in question can be seen in the 2nd and 3rd photos pretty easily. In the second, the crack is 8 or so inches behind the port holddown for the seats slightly inboard right up next to the floor. the long white lines above that area are surface only




Plenty more to come I'm sure.....

Jeff

[Riverman]

Jeff, those are the first detailed pics I've seen of your Viper. Man, what a beauty!!!

Judging by the condition of the rest, I'd just go until you find dry core and stop. In your case (smallish area to repair) epoxy should be the chit. I'd remove the floor though, just to ensure the pad core is good. A bunch more work but not much more $$.

Keep the pics coming! Great photo quality by the way.

[Sonik]

Well, my suspiscions were true. I limited how much cutting I did today until I get a jig / additional support on the hull. Alot of my would-be questions have been addressed in Rivermans and Oldskiers resto threads so I'll do my best to avoid redundancy. The pictures speak for themselves....

Hard to believe that something that survived so well externally ended up so poorly internally....


First test cuts...


And the result....


And another section..


and another..






End result thus far...


On a positive note, I did find this......



More to come......

Jeff

[mirage243]

Are you itching yet?

Seriously, great looking boat and I wish you well with your project. Keep the pics and updates coming.

[crabby ron]

jeff i just got my hands on the same boat same floor problems like your pics on the repairs

[Quinten]

Subscribed. Better now than later, at least the gel cote has not been compromised. Looking forward to seeing the progress. Best of luck!

[king gill]

Great pics jeff,Now im starting to understand what stuff looks like under there.Ive never been involved with restoring a boat,No one gets into this stuff around here.... cool!Very educational for us rookies!Good luck

[transomstand]

That's where mine broke up first. I like a little more beef in that area when it's repaired, from the transom foward 4 feet or so.

That's really not too bad, a lot of these come apart with almost no balsa left, it rots away inside the skin. I agree with Riverman, you might be able to stop at the seat box if the core is still dry, but you'll need to do the whole pad. My boat still has some of the original core.

[XSive]

Another good reference is the articles by Dan Rickey on the Hydrostream site where he redid his V-King. I know he used expoy (WestSystem) and it turned out great.



http://www.hydrostream.org/Topic.htm

[Sonik]

Great pics jeff,Now im starting to understand what stuff looks like under there.Ive never been involved with restoring a boat,No one gets into this stuff around here.... cool!Very educational for us rookies!Good luck

I've never done this either my friend.....taking baby steps for the time being. Being of a mechanical background (militarily and recreationally) and having played with alot of various stuff over the years, I'm starting to get a feel of how this boat is put together.....which is something I didn't have when I started test cutting on it. I'll continue with small incremental progression until I get the jig situated (with some outside help of course) and the remainder of the floor / core out. THEN, I'm sure I'll have questions concerning preparation and application of the new materials. End case scenario, if it needs cut transom to bow, then so be it; I have a Hydrostream decal on my truck now so I'm in it to win it!!!

One initial question.....what is the BEST way to support the hull when removing the core??? Would adding 4 extra adjustable bunks to the trailer to support the pad and wing area along with existing bunks suffice OR make templates of the bottom beginning at the transom (port to starboard)and fabricating 4-5 more to support the hull along the bottom on the way to the bow....then tie them all together to make sure the bottom stays square? (big ass jig / cradle) Am I over-analyzing this and making it more complicated than it has to be??? - If so...someone please share their expertise. I know someone can pipe in here and clear this up.

Jeff

[njj502]

Good luck with it man! I was over at Rock's the other night and saw the soft spots. Good luck and if ya need a hand just holler.

DIK

[RONNIE]

stop jerking around and cut it all and do it better than the factory did.

Im told you so nice design built like crap



mine has it too

[benski]

You've got lots of help and advice available. I'm confident you'll get that winter project "screamin' and flyin'" in the months to come!Keep us posted, and good luck.

[Pro300x24LD]

stop jerking around and cut it all and do it better than the factory did.

Couldn't agree more.

Do it all, do it once, do it right. Wortht he extra time and $$$ (which really wouldn't be much extra.)

[rock]

Good luck with your project, Jeff. I would have never guessed this. The boat looks darn near new, we tried to poke an awl in a bolt hole in the transom (still hard as steel), and had we not hit that spot putting in the new steering we never would have known. We pounded on that thing for an hour after Jeff found the spots and it sounds like a rock everywhere except the areas indicated. I hope it is isolated and you don't have to shred the entire hull. I do know when your done it will be solid.
When you get the upholstery peeled off I will cut some new wood. I would try to do the work while it is on the trailer if it was mine but if you want to put it on the roll around cart I spoke of just let me know. I don't know what support issues are involved when recoring. I've never done that.
I'm sure it sucks about now but this spring when your running about 80 you will feel better about it. We need to see if that glass I have is useable. I have two different types and sizes and you are welcome to it. Maybe we can cut off a couple samples and take them to someone that knows what it is.
Rock