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  1. #1
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    Question New Hydrostream Owner & First Time Outboard Owner Questions

    Hey Guys -

    I just bought a 1980 Hydrostream Viking, and it has a 200HP Mercury on it, supposedly with some work to the powerhead. I know it has a low-water pickup, and a 26P Prop, and it runs like a raped ape on the water, but beyond this, I know little about outboards, as my other boat is a 69 Larson I/O with the little 120HP 'Iron Duke' 4-cylinder. I know on the test drive we ran about 65MPH in a very short distance.
    I am finally able to take the boat out for the first time tomorrow for a shakedown run at the lake, and I had a couple of questions, which may seem trivial to you seasoned outboard owners, so I apologize.

    The boat is hard to start after sitting, and it doesn't like being cold, but I already knew this. I did get it started today here in the driveway though, and it sounded good.
    It has an internal fuel tank, using a Purolator electric fuel pump, and fuel pressure regulator.
    I mixed up some Amsoil 2-stroke synthetic oil at 50:1 with 5 gallons of gas.

    Anywho, there's 2 main questions I have.

    1) Is it just the Amsoil or what, because I got no smoke out of the exhaust, which I have come to expect from my limited 2-stroke experience, which consists only of my weedeater and my leaf blower, hehe. Am I using the right ratio?
    2) Sine this thing doesn't have a Water Temp gauge, but it does have a Water Pressure gauge, how should I read it to keep an eye out for an overheating engine, and what should it read at idle in neutral, at idle speed in gear, and at WOT? I want to know how to tell when this thing needs a new impeller, is running hot, and how not to cook the engine and shut it down. When I was running it with the low-water muffs on, I was only getting 3-4PSI at idle, and it would only get up to 5-7PSI when I opened it up either in neutral or in gear. I also noted that the small 'pee-hole' thing on the upper rear of the outboard that shoots out a small stream to the starboard side was not shooting it out at a constant rate. It seemed to be only shooting it out sporadically at best. This seems incorrect to me, and again, I do not want to damage the engine by not knowing what to look for, etc. .

    Anything else to look for on the shakedown run, other than not to trim it out too much and flip it over?

    Thanks..........

  2. #2
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    i dont think u should run it with that water pressure. that is a (must fix) issue. u should change the impellor just to know where u are.
    pee hole should never be sporatic at any constant rpm. my 2cents
    way more knowledgable people will be chiming in. i hope my answer helps have a good one
    if you dont take a chance.....you dont have a chance

  3. #3
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    WASHINGTON N.C.. I TOO HAVE A BOATING PROBLEM
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    [QUOTE=
    Anything else to look for on the shakedown run, other than not to trim it out too much and flip it over?

    Thanks..........[/QUOTE]

    Yea.........don't try what I am doing at 75 MPH in my signiture picture.
    JOHN MASON
    '83/VECTOR/MERC 200-- SOLD
    '98 Quartershot T-3/ MERC 200




    "If your not living on the edge, your taking up to much space"

  4. #4
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    A little confused, you got a LWP and you were running it in the driveway on the muffs? What kind of LWP and what kind of muffs? I got a Bobs cone/LWP and it needs a special 'mask' type flushing device.

    10-12 lbs min on the gauge, or put an impeller in it.
    OK, I got down off the porch and ran with the big dogs....kinda sore now....think I'll just lay here in the flowerbed for a while...


    1976 Hydrodyne 18 I-O
    1969 Allison 15R, 1973 Merc 1500 (project)
    1995 Harris toon



  5. #5
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    Based on my limited experience, that water press sounds fine for on the hose, on mine as I rev it up it'll get up a little over 7#'s when up close to 2k rpm and the gage will start fluctuating, telling me that the pump is starving for water on the hose, so that's all I've ever gotten. I've got 20-25#'s at WOT on the lake. Also, my pee hole will fluctuate also until the motor is up to temp and the thermostats settle out. HOWEVER, if you don't know when the last time the impeller was changed, it NEVER hurts to throw a new one in there just so you know...cheap insurance in my opinion. And yes, 50:1 is the right ratio for the oil. If you want hours of reading and entertainment, type in a search for oil and read thru the results and judge for yourself, I'm not gonna open that can of worms here on this thread. Also, I'd recommend getting a temp gage for it too...again, cheap insurance, and you'll actually know what the motor is doing temp wise. Water pressure does not necessarily tell you exactly what temperature may or may not be doing. Good luck!

    Brian
    1995 Allison XB-2003, 225 Promax
    2002 Trans Am, pulls the boat fine.

  6. #6
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    Those engines have a poppet valve in the cooling system that can make the indicator stream sporatic at idle. If you don't know the history of the impeller it's a good thing to replace it. I've never run a water temp guage on a V6 Merc and have been runnin' em since the first one came out in 1976. Be careful running at speeds above idle on muffs. I've had one powerhead failure on a V6 Merc outboard in over 30 years of owning countless ones, and it was due to somebody else's gas/oil mix in a used boat I bought and threw my engine on and IMPATIENTLY dropped it in the lake. I like a good full synthetic (Klotz in my stuff, but many people like the Pennzoil full too). I run mine at 32:1 but feel that 40:1 is adequate, is cheap insurance, and has no downside except a little extra smoke. I would recommend that you do a search on oil. If I were to tell you that I think Amsoil is basically a marketing gimmick and some people around here have had less than good experiences it would start another bare knuckled brawl, so I'm not going to touch that subject. Oil opinions around here are more volatile than politics and religion combined.

    As far as what to do on the shakedown, wear a good life jacket and a kill switch and spend a lot of time in the seat before you try to air it out. The Streams REALLY NEED a foot throttle, solid mounts, and properly adjusted dual cable steering as bare minimums for safety and handling.
    Membership upgrade options: http://www.screamandfly.com/payments.php

  7. #7
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    A little more knowledge

    Hey Guys -

    Yes, I do have the correct cone for it, not standard muffs. I was just using a somewhat familiar term, at least to me.

    True, when I had it in the water, it had a much more consistent water pressure, but like a couple of you said, I will be putting in a new impeller at the least before I start using it.

    On the test drive, I found some kind of problem with the engine. It's either the stator, or something else electrical.
    - It's cold natured as hell, and it takes a while to get it to stay running in neutral. When it finally does, as soon as you go to put it in gear, it wants to die.
    - I was literally the only one on the lake yesterday, so it was nearly perfect conditions on West Point Lake. It was dead calm too. I slowly aired it out, but as I ran up through the RPM range, I noticed it was surging quite a bit. I got up to 65MPH, and it just basically acted like it was shutting down. The RPM would cut sharpyly, and then it acted like it would start running again as I came down through the RPM range.

    So I'm going to do some reading on stators, as this is my first outboard, as well as replacing the water pump, and go from there. I also plan on a compression test as a starting point. A guy at the marina mentioned it sounded like someone had removed an exhaust tube from it too, as it was really loud.

    My goal is to have a boat that's fast, but also to have a boat that I can get in, start, and enjoy, without having to cross my fingers or try for half an hour to get it running and/or in gear successfully.

    So for now, I'll be taking out the 69 Larson All American until this one is straightened out. 30MPH top speed, but it's very very simple, and pretty damn reliable.

    Thanks for your input so far, and have a great Holiday Weekend!

  8. #8
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    You might want to go through the fuel system too. Also, I think it's always a good idea to run a compression test for comparison between the cyls and to look for signs of water on spark plugs.
    Membership upgrade options: http://www.screamandfly.com/payments.php

  9. #9
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    Surging problem for your 200 Merc V-6

    1) First thing I would do is check your compression on all cylinders. Like Raceman says also look at your plugs for signs of water on them. 2) The cold natured starting and dying-out when you put it in gear problem - sounds like you need to check the jets in all your carbs (especially if the motor has been sitting for awhile) clogged jets can cause exactly what you've described. 3) Older motors that sit around also tend to develop the problems you've described due to the pick-ups "curved magnets on the flywheel being (rusty/dirty) where they fire off of the stator. Pop the flywheel clean the pick-ups and go for another test run. 4) Test the coils on the motor for "output" a weak or bad coil can also give you that "surging" problem you described. 5) Remember you're driving a Hydrostream V-king with a 200hp Mercury you should be running 75-80mph if the motor is running right, have the right set-back and engine height, and are running the right prop. That being said...once you get over 65 mph (you're going to have to "handle" the boat or, the boat is going to "handle: you! Best of luck and enjoy...

  10. #10
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    With the driveability issues you have, I wouldn't waste time with the stator. Carbs are probably full of crap, and a fuel pump rebuild would be in order also. I wouldn't push the motor too hard yet, if it's running lean, that's a good way to burn a piston.

    Has the boat been sitting for awhile?


  11. #11
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    New 'stream

    Trip..GA:
    You'll find that one of the attributes of Amsoil is its lack of smoke, as compared to the mosquito fogging of some other oils used at richer ratios. Don't forget to run a synthetic marine gear lube in your Merc as well, and welcome to the band of merry misfits! Raceman is right about how to start a brisk conversation on the site. Just ask "what 2-stroke oil do you use, what ratio do you run in your motor, and why? You'll generate enough sparks to warm up even Hillary Clinton..

  12. #12
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    Thanks for the advice guys.

    The PO of the boat only bought it back in April or May of this year, put a new interior in it, had it painted, and then got into some serious money problems (home builder), so he had to unload it, which is where I came in. I don't think he knew much about the engine setup. I don't know how much the boat has sat.
    The boat is using a manual jack plate, and is running a SS 26P Prop, as I remember (it's dark here now, so I can't check). He also gave me another prop he said he uses for skiing, etc., so I assume more for torque.

    Yes, a compression check was going to be the first thing I did, before I did anything else, just to get some basic info on the boat.

    Yes, I realize that something like this has to be taken a little at a time to learn the boat, and not all in one gulp. If I were still in my 20s, I might throw caution to the wind, but I tend to be slightly more conservative now.

    I'm going to see if I can pick up a Factory Service Manual on this type of engine, but I'm not sure how much help that would be, since I know it's been tweaked in some ways. At the very least it should give me the basic architecture, and diagnosis of the basics, such as stators, magnets, blah blah blah.
    Like I said, I know a lot about 4-cycle engines, mainly in cars and trucks, but near zero on 4-stroke. My older Brother who's ASE Certified says he can help me quite a bit, but it's all about time for me. I'm in sales, and I work quite a bit, including many weekends.

    Maybe I should just get a new 200HP Merc.......oh wait, they're expensive, nevermind.

    So is there like a 'Circa 1980 Merc 200 tweaked outboards for dummies' starting point for the 2-stroke outboard novice, or should I just retire to a dark room for an entire weekend, with a fridge full of Mt. Dew and read random threads here?

    I hope my questions don't become repeats of the basics for you guys, so if I ask a dumb-ass question, just say so.

    Jack

  13. #13
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    check timing too

    If running that poorly, find a local real merc mechanic or a race specialist and have him retime. I have found that some nut and bolt marine shops adjust idle by tweaking the advance/retard instead of idle and you can wind up a very retarded motor barely running at idle with no power...evident when it engages gear and dies. You might also check that the electric choke remains on until it warms up.

    Finally, you could be well gunked by former user not storing properly )possibly why your impeller is not up to snuff too as it is old and cracked). Some boats are sold because they are no longer used much and unfortunately the gas in the tank and engine can get old and begin going to varnish. I have found miracles in rarely run or poorly stored engines with a simple can of spray tune. Afterward, use a bit of carbon clean for the next several tanks.

    Enjoy your V-King and read lots here (on S&F) on getting through chinewalking--some are technique and some are simple mechanical improvements to do over the winter months. Also, make sure you steering is in excellent shape and replace cables if necessary.

    Jeff

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by transomstand View Post
    With the driveability issues you have, I wouldn't waste time with the stator. Carbs are probably full of crap, and a fuel pump rebuild would be in order also. I wouldn't push the motor too hard yet, if it's running lean, that's a good way to burn a piston.

    Has the boat been sitting for awhile?
    , if there is any question the carbs aren't right, clean them out, save loads of cash. I've got a Clymer manual that covers from 72-89, it's number B726. I have since acquired a shop manual for my 84 2.4. If you have trouble finding one, let me know. It's not the pro grade manual, and it covers from 45 to 225 hp, but it's better than nothing.

    Good luck!
    Quote Originally Posted by mrcrsr View Post
    and you could always add more hp!!
    There is only one way to avoid criticism: do nothing, say nothing, and be nothing. –Aristotle


    Quinten


    86' Hydrostream Vking YT, 2.4 Bridgeport EFI
    (Rigging and interior in the works)
    88' Hydrostream Voyager, 2.4 200 Merc
    Boat of The Month Feb. 2009
    resto here, http://forums.screamandfly.com/forum...d.php?t=144414
    Dedicated to you Dad, I miss you! 1935-2008

  15. #15
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    as a new stream owner dont push your limits as the driver ...the boat can handle high speeds but can you drive it? learn the boat ...seat time is a must along with proper setup give it time and fly it high when you learn it you will love v bottoms


    79 vector modifed 200 merc
    88.7 garmin gps

    90 mirage jag 11.00 every time

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