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Thread: '77 I6 115

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    '77 I6 115

    Hello all... another prairie dog seeking speed ...thanks for having me.

    Picked up a '76 Viper with a '77 115 last week....and so the journey begins.

    I could use some advice on getting this merc to run .... dropped it in the water, fired up no problem, idled no problem, wound up in neutral no problem, dropped into gear no problem, wouldn't turn past 2200...

    new fuel tank, new fuel lines and new fuel pump....replaced leaky water hose...compression test 120-130 on all 6 ...new plugs installed .....no R's

    ripped the carbs off, cleaned and replaced, still no R's

    replaced every visible wire (cracked, corroded), still no R's.

    ohm checked stator (found out that didn't matter with the old cap and rotor models anyway) , tested fine..... installed brand new switch box ...gained a few R's, but still no real R's.

    replaced distributer with a better looking used one (can you even buy a new one?), cleaned all the points in the cap and the rotor....still no R's

    HELP?


    anybody got a link to the link&sync procedure I need to do?



    ----p.s....thanks for stopping and for the help Jeff.....I know you only stopped because you're bitter someone else is driving down your river in another Viper...but thanks anyway man!!!

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    So is it loaded up feeling and doesn't try to get the boat on top at all? I can think of several possibilities. The easiest to check is the prop.......... what's the pitch? (possible somebody threw way too much on it to sell the boat?)

    Since you have uniform compression, I'd try an over hub prop and see if the boat will jump up....... something like a chopper. I've always set my timing/carb pickups on inline 6's a little different from the book, and different from most, but it's worked for me, ESPECIALLY on boats that use a lot of pitch and are doggy. Even if you want to go back and set it by specs later, at least it may indicate if it's a problem. I like to see the timing at full advance BEFORE the carbs start to open. That's MORE initial than the factory proceedure calls for BUT without sufficient timing advance before the carbs start to open the engine will be boggy. There's really not a downside to pulling all the advance in first except it can be kind of hard to get adjusted into it. This is more critical on an inline 150 than a 115 of the same series because the 115's are typically fairly torquey engines.

    Other easy check is the plugs. Do they show any signs of water, OR any metal deposits showing the beginning of burning a piston? Just one weak cyl will make an inline hesitant to jump on top, especially on a small V where the exhaust may sit deeper.

    That's the easy stuff. Jeff_G our resident inline expert will probably have some ideas also when he sees this.
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    thanks for the reply... I forgot to add the prop chapter to my story... started with a 17p and it got up and spun about 3k.... after I stopped for gas and fired it up again, that's when it started to only spin 2k and couldn't get it up (viagra wouldn't even have helped)..... I hobbled back to the launch and cringed the whole way knowing these puppies don't like to be idled like that. .......after doing the carbs, I thought the hub might have been iffy and there was a chip in the prop...so I tossed on a new 21p .... it's still only spinning 2500... must be electrical

    plugs are good.... the only thing left that I can see is the timing/advancement ..any other tips are definitely welcome....

    thank you
    Last edited by netvid; 08-23-2008 at 12:49 AM. Reason: forgot some info

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    17 and 21 on a Viper should have spun all the way up. I think you are looking at a fuel or linkage adjustment problem.

    I've seen electrical problems that stopped a motor from starting and some that kept a motor from running over 5,000, but not something in your rpm range except for very obvious cracked insulation going into the distributor and you say you have looked at that possibility.

    Take a look at the spark plugs. If you are having an electrical component problem they will be all black and sooty.

    Make sure the throttle (from the handle on the box, not just moving the lever on the side of the motor) is fully opening the carbs. Its a big duh, but you would not believe how many times something simple like that is the problem. Max spark advance should be set around 21∘Make sure nothing is stopping the distributor from moving freely ... has a spring in the works and can be accidently held back from full advance.

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    well after much headache and emptying my wallet, the problem is that there is water getting into the bottom cyl when it's under load.....wouldn't show up on the ears.. grrrrr ..time to drop on the '88 and see what happens. thanks all ...don't laugh too hard at me on the dock lol.....cheers!

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    The inline 6 death knell

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    Sorry for your loss. I guess these great motors are reaching an age where they are starting to expire at an increasing rate. Mark 75H, is there anything special we can do to prolong their life? Maybe a quick column or an article link on the care and feeding of these engines? Thanks a bunch.

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    How about replacing the inner plate? Or checking the lower seals? That is a fairly common and not too difficult of a procedure...

    Kirk S.


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    I'm interested in the new switch box and used cap if you decide to part the motor out.

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    Quote Originally Posted by benski View Post
    ..................is there anything special we can do to prolong their life? Maybe a quick column or an article link on the care and feeding of these engines? Thanks a bunch.
    Frequent water pump impeller change
    Good gas (I run NO LESS THAN Premium in my inlines)
    Good oil 32:1 to 40:1, (I like full synthetic in my stuff)
    Proper timing
    Proper RPM (don't pitch em where they can't turn at least upper 5K's at WOT for 1500,1400,1350, red striped 1150, later 1150's...... 1150's in mid to late 70's do well with a little less, low to mid 5K's)
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    Merc I-6 longevity Cliff's notes...

    Raceman,
    Thank you for your most valued reply. There are people on this forum that have forgotten more than I will learn in the 6 years I've got left to do this, and it is VERY appreciated. Some of the more obvious stuff I've got down as gospel from previous experience, but specific feeding instructions (like how tight to twist it up) are great! Thanks everyone!

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    With the summer winding down, my time is totally devoted to getting on the water. After I achieve that goal, I will rip the motor apart and part it out.

    I've got that motor off and the '88 I6 mounted on now.....compression is only 110- 120..and with a brief inspection down the holes, I found the pistons were pitted. I'm just going to run some high octane VP fuel and retard the timing a degree or 2 so I can at least get out on the water.

    1 issue though.... when I hit the trim switch, the ground strap heats up red hot.... wtf? I'm not the best wire guy...any ideas why it's doing that?

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    woohoo....the '88 inline worked like a charm today... thanks for everyone's help and concern... much appreciated!


    1 issue though... I can't seem to get the boat out of the water high enough to really scream and fly... no setback or jack plate and it's a 21 pitch... should I try a 23? it's like the back half of the hull is still in the water at WOT

    I'll get the '77 parts listed this week for y'all..... I think someone here already has dibs on the switchbox and cap


    cheers

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    lol one thing after another .... the ground straps are melting when I use the tilt/trim ....anybody have that issue before?

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    straps

    Sounds like you're trying to draw too much current through the circuit. Check all of your connections. May have a bad motor? I hope not. Good luck.

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