What does this line do?

[MTOLLEY]

you will also have to remove the small black box at the front of your engine on the lower starboard side. it has a tiny red light on it. disconnect the wire from the water separator and remove the part. it looks like this

[MTOLLEY]

this is what my trigger arm looks like at idle. yours may or may not like the idle timing this advanced,mine does.

[MTOLLEY]

i think thats about it. if you need any more pics of something let me know, other than paint are engines are about the same(cosmeticly) hope this helps! mt

[pyro]

Those photos are great.

You should post this in its own thread "oil injection removal", it would be very helpful for others in the future. I've outlined the process a few times, but your photos make it even more simple.

Back when I did my '89 200 EFI, I had to loosen the VST and move it aside to get the oil pump out.

[MTOLLEY]

if i knew how to move it and post it without having to retype it all i would! maybe raceman or greg will do it for me and everyone can benefit. if any one can add to something i missed that would be great too mt

[pyro]

I'll do it tomorrow. I'll give you due credit for the photos.

[MTOLLEY]

sounds good to me! mt

[whipper]

MTTOLY!! Your the MAN!! I so appreciate your work in doing this really I do! I can Finlay do this removal with more confidence!I will get on it this week and have it done for next time out! THNKYOU! James P.S. Pyro let me know when ya post this on a sticky or wear ever ya do it.

[whipper]

"The advance modual is removed. Thats the one that conects to the shift cable by the throatle linkage right"

no, that is a shift assist module. the timing advance module is on top port side. (might be two boxes together) ill get pics of what things look like after an oil injection removal either today or in the a.m. my advice to you is to get a dial indicator and set the timing pointer correctly if you havent already.(there is a great write-up on the hydrostream registry on timing a merc v-6) also when you remove the oil injection, get rid of ALL the electronic modules( a stock fishin motor has 3 normally, and promax's 2 i believe) you can keep the shift assist if you want to, though i got rid of that as well.( i dont want anything monkeying with my engine timing!) i set my idle timing to where the center of the trigger arm is splitting the case( doing this will make the idle speed higher, which is hard on the gearcase if you shift it while running(i dont) but does make the hole shot alot stronger and the engine doesnt load-up as bad on long no wake zones) ill get some pics and post back! mt

Mines the same as yours. I dont have the shift assist. I broke that little timming advance arm that how my whole ordeal happen! I was checking the nut and it broke. Up hear know one knows how to set timming. One guy had it a 30 and another at 25 but no TDC check. I have the TDC guage now from Jay Smith and it was out by 2 deg! So now I have to set timming again. I just went and got a new timming light and going to do it myself!

[150aintenuff]

if your running a PCU or ACU which plugs are you running........ it makes a difference..... TEST YOUR STATOR OUTPUT, you may not be getting a solid trigger that the coils can build up enough to fire through the resistor of the spark plugs, Silverbullet02 Just had the same issue with his motor, we are trying different spark plugs to see if we can get his ACU to play nice with everything else, as his 200 runs 6300 with the stock ECU but only 5100 with the ACU and its FAT AS ALL GET OUT when running the ACU... but near perfect when on the Stocker... enough work on his part we traced it to the stator timing trigger and spark plugs.... timing will vary a motor 100 or so RPM if off 2* not 1400...

[whipper]

I Just set my timming a few minutes ago. It was 20!! I set it up and am heading to test right now. I just put in new plugs to read br9hs-10. Gapped to 035. I have a Brucato ACU. I was getting a pretty good hole shot and midrange. I advanced to 24 deg.Ill see if I cant pick up 400 or 500 rpm now with a 25 on. Should make quite a differance. The guy who set the timming never had the timming advance line off and the needle was out from 0!! If ya want something done right ya do it your self if ya can. I want to thank all the people who have had the paitants with me getting this timming thing down. I hope when I go out in a min things work great! We will see.

[whipper]

Just got in and everything was GREAT! I got her up to 79 with the 25 trophy at 6700 - 6800 or so RPM. Considering the tempature and altidude that was perfict. The small lake is 2400ft and not quite 1/2 mile long. The low end was very strong and got up to speed fast. I pulled plugs three times and they look alittle lean? i always used the non gaped plugs before the new acu so haveing a little trouble reading. The insulator nose was darkish and the electode was light dark with a ting of white on the edges? Was hoping for a paperbag look but unless its a muti coloured bag these wernt it. She ran great and idled great so must be great. The operating temps never once got very high? I was mostly WOT back and forth so never realy had much hull in the water for loading the engine up. Next thing this week oil injection off!

[whipper]

timing will vary a motor 100 or so RPM if off 2* not 1400...

The TDC was off by 2 marks to 0 but the timming was out 5 deg after checked it with the pointer in the right spot. I picked up 700+rpm with a 25 trophy. I decreased the fuel out put a touch also wich made a differance at 2300ft. Tomorrow Im trying my 28drag4 to see if its back to normal. I probably could have gotten 7000rpm out of the 25 trophy but ran out of lake sorta and will wait untill I take off the injection before I hold those rpm for any distance. This was the first time since NOV I had everthing working correctly!! I bought the ACU just after the timming went for crap. The first guy to touch the motor totaly changed everything. It has taken till now to get everything straight. The hole shot with the ACU is almost twice as good as stock! The mid range better and the top end just comes a little quiker. It will be interesting to see how she pulls the bigger wheel tomorrow? The top shouldnt be to much higher but hopeing for better holeshot with this prop as its my favorite running prop.

[gmacrae]

bumpin this to the top... is a mod able to take all of MTOLLEY's great info and pics and make them into a sticky thread at the top?

Regarding removing the oil pump... i'm about to remove my oiling system (along with idle stabilizer, knock/advance module) but dont want to pull the pump out if i'm going to have to wait a week for the proper kit to show up (there's aparently none in the country). If i start the job, i need to finish it tonight so i can get it running/timed this weekend. If all i need is basically a flat plate for the pump hole i can make it myself, but if its more than that I'll need the kit.

What do you guys think?

Edit: I found this http://bassinhound.net/fishing/inject/

Why the need for that rod to replace the oil pump? Wouldn't a plate and gasket do the trick?

[150aintenuff]

there is no "kit" just a plug, PN 43454 and you go to local hardware store, get a 1/4 pipe plug, and 2 short 10x32 screws to replace the long screws that hold the pump.


NOW the reason for the rod.... There is a brass bushing in the front half of the block that can FALL OUT without that rod on the block off... if you were to disassemble the motor to the crank one could seal that off and then just a cover plate would be fine.

one could leave the oil /alarm modual, pump and sensors in the block and just block off the lines and plug the check valve in the bottom of the block but the risk of things going south is very great due to running a pump dry... (local dealer does this)