What does this line do?

[stiletto200]

ahh so an apology might be in order then hey pyro?
just coz i dont use the proper wording dont mean im guessin

[YELLOWSS]

it's ok pyro i thought i was wrong once, but i was mistakin!!!!!!!LOL
roy

[pyro]

(5-21, page 1)

Ahhh... I eat crow then. I was wrong. Sorry for doubting fact, and thanks for filling me in.

Not good enough?

OK, I'm even more sorry today than I was three weeks ago!

I'M SORRY!

[YELLOWSS]

no need to be sorry!!! just is shock that you were wrong... only 1/2 wrong really which means 1/2 right!!!!LOL

roy

[shawnjetton]

Thanks guys everything is Good now! Just gota set up my timming again. I got Jays TDC guadge and the 0 mark on the ProMax was off by two deg. Im running 22 or 23 i figure right now. No harm retarted but its killing my top end a bit. Ill set her up to 25 at 3000 rpm and see how she likes that. In the manual for the 96 225ProMax the timming is a little unclear? One page says 23 deg and the other 25 at 3000rpm? What would the differance be in timming if set to 25 at 3000rpm and the crank speed timming after set at 3000? Would the crank speed timming be higher or lower than 25 or the same? Should I just set at 25 turning it over?

i am interested in this answer also. i never set my timeing any other way but at cranking speed. i would need a 2nd person to help me set it at 3000 to test and see if it is differant.

[MTOLLEY]

Thanks guys everything is Good now! Just gota set up my timming again. I got Jays TDC guadge and the 0 mark on the ProMax was off by two deg. Im running 22 or 23 i figure right now. No harm retarted but its killing my top end a bit. Ill set her up to 25 at 3000 rpm and see how she likes that. In the manual for the 96 225ProMax the timming is a little unclear? One page says 23 deg and the other 25 at 3000rpm? What would the differance be in timming if set to 25 at 3000rpm and the crank speed timming after set at 3000? Would the crank speed timming be higher or lower than 25 or the same? Should I just set at 25 turning it over?

the book is telling you what the timming will be at 3000rpm if the advance module is connected. in FACTORY STOCK applicatons you set the cranking speed timming to 23* and the module will advance it the other 2*. most folks get rid of the module and set the the timming the old fashioned way to 25* using the timming stop.
if you still have the modules,set it at 23*. if they have been removed,set it to 25*,just remeber to run nothing less than 93 octane fuel (up to 150psi compression) the idle timming, i usually set it to where the engine likes it,it varies. mt

[whipper]

the book is telling you what the timming will be at 3000rpm if the advance module is connected. in FACTORY STOCK applicatons you set the cranking speed timming to 23* and the module will advance it the other 2*. most folks get rid of the module and set the the timming the old fashioned way to 25* using the timming stop.
if you still have the modules,set it at 23*. if they have been removed,set it to 25*,just remeber to run nothing less than 93 octane fuel (up to 150psi compression) the idle timming, i usually set it to where the engine likes it,it varies. mt

The advance modual is removed. Thats the one that conects to the shift cable by the throatle linkage right? We set it to 25 on the trailer but wasnt any good so we set it to 25 in nutral at 3000 and was better. When things got real good was when we lightened up the fuel to air ratio. This was all done at 2300ft above sea level. The mechanic is a snowmobile racer so new a little about the fuel delivery for our areas altitude. I have the Brocato ACU. That was three weeks ago and all done without a TDC guadge. Im running realy rich still plugs are just black! Now that I know we are off because we werent lined up on the needle indicator to 0 at TDC off by 3. On Monday we are going to reset timming. So I should just crank her over with the trigger to 25 deg. I do this at WOT then correct. Idle should be no more than 850rpm out of gear and 650 in gear is that correct also. I apresiate the coments I just want to get things back to normal! The manual is a little confussing with this engine when doing it for the first time. I run mostly 91 and 92 octain? There is one place only with in 500miles with 94. Realy rare in these parts. Its 1.65 a LT thats like 6+ bucks a gallon! I will use it when I can but 92 has always worked great and never realy noticed a differance with the 94 anyway. Right now Im around 10-12mph and 700rpm+ down in performance with the timming the way it is. I do have a great hole shot though even still! Thats why I figure she is retarted a few deg.I had to move the pointer to the starboard to get 0. No timming light till monday. At idle she isnt very smooth though? Sounds like shes a few cylenders short firing untill I get on the foot. Ill get some new plugs for reading after we set the timming again and head to the lake. Any thing I miss?? {Idle timming?} We should just set to wear the engine runs the smoothest? This doesnt affect total advance timming right? I dont think we touched that yet!LOL

[whipper]

i am interested in this answer also. i never set my timeing any other way but at cranking speed. i would need a 2nd person to help me set it at 3000 to test and see if it is differant.

When we do the timming in the garage we will see what it comes to. The last set was done at 3000rpm so we will see the differance. I have adjusted 3 bars on the indicator to the starboard to get 0 at TDC so what ever the first reading is it will be 3deg from that from before at 3000. Ill post it hear.

[MTOLLEY]

"The advance modual is removed. Thats the one that conects to the shift cable by the throatle linkage right"

no, that is a shift assist module. the timing advance module is on top port side. (might be two boxes together) ill get pics of what things look like after an oil injection removal either today or in the a.m. my advice to you is to get a dial indicator and set the timing pointer correctly if you havent already.(there is a great write-up on the hydrostream registry on timing a merc v-6) also when you remove the oil injection, get rid of ALL the electronic modules( a stock fishin motor has 3 normally, and promax's 2 i believe) you can keep the shift assist if you want to, though i got rid of that as well.( i dont want anything monkeying with my engine timing!) i set my idle timing to where the center of the trigger arm is splitting the case( doing this will make the idle speed higher, which is hard on the gearcase if you shift it while running(i dont) but does make the hole shot alot stronger and the engine doesnt load-up as bad on long no wake zones) ill get some pics and post back! mt

[MTOLLEY]

ok,got pics. will be several posts to include them.


first, you need to remove this:



and the lines from whatever they are connected to

[MTOLLEY]

when you remove the hose from this fitting, dont worry about plugging it. it is a check valve and shouldnt leak. on the off chance that it does, you can remove it and put a plug in its place, or i have soldered the hole closed in a jam.

[MTOLLEY]

this is the oil pump and all of its componets. make sure not to turn the engine over until you put the pump block off in place. disconnect the pump rotation sensor form whatever its connected to. dont forget to put the o-ring on the block off plug before installing it. when finished it should look like this

[MTOLLEY]

next you need to remove this fitting



from this location and install the plug seen in the pic. this is below the starter

[MTOLLEY]

now, you want to remove the three( or in some cases two) "boxes" one will be mounted here on the port side of the block



and the others here on the port side on top of the block i have trim solonoids mounted there now

[MTOLLEY]

your engine may or may not have a sensor in the top right hand cylinder head bolt,on the port side. mine did and i removed the sensor. this is a detonation sensor and has a wire that connects to one of the boxes that have been removed it looks like this