User Tag List

Thanks Thanks:  0
Likes Likes:  0
Results 1 to 14 of 14
  1. #1
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    arkansas
    Posts
    3
    Thanks (Given)
    0
    Thanks (Received)
    0
    Likes (Given)
    0
    Likes (Received)
    0
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)

    Please help, new boat water in the oil.

    I bought a 1976 carlson cvx20 with a 460 and berkely pump about a month ago. When I got it the motor had been rebuilt before sitting for over a year. I checked the oil before purchase and it looked great. The motor turned over with a wrench but was very stiff. The carb had been off of the motor but it was covered. When I got it home I put the carb on, gave it some fuel and fired it up without water. I did not run it long and it sounded great. I played with carb linkage and the fuel pump, but never ran it over about 20 to 30 seconds. I decided to hook up water to it so I could tune it better. I hooked the water hose directly to the top intake fitting on the water pump. When I did the engine became hareder to turn over. The drain valves on the exhaust manifolds were open before I started and I closed them. With the water on I could not get the motor to turn over. I turned it off and drained the manifolds. When I checked the oil (before running) I thought there might be water present. I poured some gas in the carb ran it for a short while (sounded good) and sure enough the dip stick was covered in the milky stuff.
    Where should I go first? Is there anything I could have blown with the water pressure? Our water hose does have an extreme amount of pressure. Should I first check the compression on all cylinders and then the intake gaskets, then the head gaskets??
    Man I hope it's not a cracked block. If I do have good compression on all should I try the intake gaskets 1st?

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Location
    Michigan
    Posts
    221
    Thanks (Given)
    0
    Thanks (Received)
    0
    Likes (Given)
    0
    Likes (Received)
    0
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Remove the spark plugs and crank the motor to get the water out. Change the oil AND the oil filter. Run it without water for a few seconds. Change the oil AND filter again. With each oil change, include a quart of ATF (it likes water). Use cheap oil because you need to dump it right away. Keep doing this (2-3 times) until the oil has no milk.

    You are now ready to start over.

    What sort of exhaust system do you have?

    You need to do some searching and some reading.

    Good luck

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Location
    tennessee
    Posts
    18
    Thanks (Given)
    0
    Thanks (Received)
    0
    Likes (Given)
    0
    Likes (Received)
    0
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    I have the same motor w/harmon exhaust. When purchased the exhaust manifolds were leaking but not enough to force water into the oil. Do you have a "T" back by the pump unit to add water for dry runs?
    How much water pressure do you have from the hose-forcing it directly into the engine and exhaust? No expert here- but think you need to leave an exit for uneeded water. Did you check the TIGHTNESS of your intake and exhaust BOLTS? Vibration does mysterious things!!!
    Good luck! Hope its just an easy fix for you.
    19' Spectra
    17'Litchfield
    21'Formula

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    se mass
    Posts
    129
    Thanks (Given)
    1
    Thanks (Received)
    2
    Likes (Given)
    1
    Likes (Received)
    0
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by kcccsryan View Post
    I have the same motor w/harmon exhaust. When purchased the exhaust manifolds were leaking but not enough to force water into the oil. Do you have a "T" back by the pump unit to add water for dry runs?
    How much water pressure do you have from the hose-forcing it directly into the engine and exhaust? No expert here- but think you need to leave an exit for uneeded water. Did you check the TIGHTNESS of your intake and exhaust BOLTS? Vibration does mysterious things!!!
    Good luck! Hope its just an easy fix for you.
    Pretty much everything here but you said you hooked the hose to the water pump if this is a jet why a water pump just curious do you have a cam driven pump if so its real easy to push past the seal,you have very little to lose with a couple of oil changes i would like to see the outcome of this post a pic or two of youre cooling makes things alot easier

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Location
    tennessee
    Posts
    18
    Thanks (Given)
    0
    Thanks (Received)
    0
    Likes (Given)
    0
    Likes (Received)
    0
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    jet pump--inline T---hose to engine--pump connection at engine.
    It seems likely that you have a gasket leak-probably intake- water in cylinders and oil. It could also be getting back in from exhaust too.
    did you check for loose bolts or water leakage?
    The jet pump forces water to the engine as it is being run-some people put a pressure release valve so it does not get too much water pressure from the jet pump. I'd get the oil changed first and then check gaskets.
    Could be gettig in from the exhaust manifold to riser gaskets also.
    Again did you check the tightness of the exhaust, intake and exhaust to riser bolts.
    Sorry no camera-
    19' Spectra
    17'Litchfield
    21'Formula

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Location
    oconomowoc,wi
    Posts
    230
    Thanks (Given)
    0
    Thanks (Received)
    0
    Likes (Given)
    0
    Likes (Received)
    0
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)

    water in oil

    get a product called seafoam. it will sop up the water in the crankcase. good luck triple j

  7. #7
    Join Date
    May 2005
    Location
    Buffalo MN.
    Posts
    248
    Thanks (Given)
    0
    Thanks (Received)
    0
    Likes (Given)
    0
    Likes (Received)
    0
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    I always start the motor before turning on the H2O. This way you don't flood the motor.

    V-king jet boat
    Seadoo speedster 200 310hp
    Hole shot http://s5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...t=MOV00922.flv

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Location
    Long Beach, Ca
    Posts
    11
    Thanks (Given)
    0
    Thanks (Received)
    0
    Likes (Given)
    0
    Likes (Received)
    0
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)

    Water in Oil

    1979 Challenger<?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-comfficeffice" /><o></o>
    Dominator Jet<o></o>
    1973 Ford 460<o></o>
    (D1VE Block, D3VE Heads)<o></o>
    <o></o>
    A small amount of water is getting into the oil.<o></o>
    The engine runs good. Took it for a spin the day I bought it. It hauls ass. Starts right up. No miss. Temp was 160 to 180. Sitting in the driveway idling it never gets above 160. (ok I revvvvved it a few times for the adrenaline rush lol)<o></o>
    <o> </o>
    There is no water in any cylinders. All the plugs look about the same. Running a tad rich.<o></o>
    Compression tests show randomly 120 to 130.<o></o>
    <o> </o>
    I have read about the issues with the timing chain cover leaking and would hope to eliminate everything else before I raise the engine and attack that.<o></o>
    Having said that I removed the face plate from the cover to inspect the void where the dipstick housing is and it was a tad oily with no signs of water. I threw some epoxy in there anyway so even if it leaked across the gasket, that would be as far as it would get. (I have since pulled the cover off and inspected. No leak there.)<o></o>
    <o> </o>
    I have cycled through one can of sea foam(two applications), 4 cycles of oil and three filters. I was hoping that I fixed the problem or that the previous owner had some problem that was fixed but never got out all the water. I was wrong lol. <o></o>
    <o> </o>
    Now I have dedicated some time to research and in reading posts in this forum, I see that perhaps the intake manifold or the exhaust manifolds may also be causing this….<o></o>
    <o> </o>
    I am running the old school, low profile, below waterline Hardin exhaust system. <o></o>
    <o></o>
    Again, it’s not a major leak. Just enough to make me curse a bit.
    <o></o>
    Any help would be much appreciated.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    TENN
    Posts
    211
    Thanks (Given)
    0
    Thanks (Received)
    0
    Likes (Given)
    0
    Likes (Received)
    0
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    be sure that you are not over pressurising the engine. ideally you want 10-15 lbs of pressure be sure that you are not putting too much thru the hose to the engine, this is a commmon happening when using too much pressure on the hose.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    Big Lake, Alaska
    Posts
    26
    Thanks (Given)
    0
    Thanks (Received)
    0
    Likes (Given)
    0
    Likes (Received)
    0
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    I had overpressure issue with headers before, causing milky oil.

    I have also used inferior intake gaskets causing this too.
    I recommend any good gasket company that uses "Full Length/Width Gaskets." By this I mean, I prefer the gasket that covers the whole port area (obviously) and continues as a "full" sheet to the next port. Any that are cut out around the port are prone to failure, especialy when using "old Casting parts (old blocks with old intakes), especiay aluminum.

    This has caused me pains before.

    A friend recommended using diesel or kerosene to wash the block down after severe milky or "sunk/submerged" conditions. Sounds plausible to me.
    1976 Barracuda V-Drive Flat Bottom 454 Casale

    1977 Hawaiian Jet 460 Offenhauser "Single" Tunnel Ram, Jacuzzi 12YJ

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Location
    Long Beach, Ca
    Posts
    11
    Thanks (Given)
    0
    Thanks (Received)
    0
    Likes (Given)
    0
    Likes (Received)
    0
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Guess I'll do them all.....intake, exhaust, heads and timing cover....

  12. #12
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Posts
    58
    Thanks (Given)
    0
    Thanks (Received)
    0
    Likes (Given)
    0
    Likes (Received)
    0
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    its not that bad

    Shouldn't set you back very much at all in parts and maybe take up a day at worst. The good thing is you caught it...

  13. #13
    Join Date
    May 2005
    Location
    Buffalo MN.
    Posts
    248
    Thanks (Given)
    0
    Thanks (Received)
    0
    Likes (Given)
    0
    Likes (Received)
    0
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Had the same problem.I did the timing chain cover first. Bingo that's what the problem was.
    Hope you find the problem.

    V-king jet boat
    Seadoo speedster 200 310hp
    Hole shot http://s5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...t=MOV00922.flv

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    Missouri
    Posts
    84
    Thanks (Given)
    0
    Thanks (Received)
    0
    Likes (Given)
    0
    Likes (Received)
    0
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    When I bought my Jetboat last year, I was warned that if the water pressure to the headers was up too high, and the motor was idling too fast...it could suck water into the block through the exhaust because of the valve overlap I have in the camshaft...I have a 425 HP 402 BB Chev with 12JC pump and Bassit water injected over the transom pipes...so far so good for me. The guy I bought it from had it tweeked just right, so I haven't messed with it. I do check my oil before and after though to play it safe though. Best of luck to you, hope you get it solved!

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Chris Carson's Marine