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Thread: '04 225 Opti

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    '04 225 Opti

    Last fall I got some bad advice and used fogging oil in my Opti. I later was told that this can clog the air injectors. What if anything can I do minimize problems from this.

    What need to be done for regular mtce ? Changing filters etc.

    Also, my tilt cly is leaking from the main seal. Is this a job the average home wrench should tackle ?

    many thanks
    Chuck

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    My recommendations:
    Run good oil: Merc Optimax Oil, or Merc Premium Plus, or Amsoil HP Injector Oil
    Annually: replace your fuel filter
    clean the compressor air filter
    inspect, replace belt as needed
    inspect belt tensioner for wear, loose bolts, etc
    inspect key fasteners for looseness such as starter motor brackets,
    air compressor mounting bolts, and alternator mounting hardware
    (Optimax engines vibrate fasteners loose)
    inspect all oil hoses and nipples to insure lines are secure and not
    cracked or worn.
    inspect all electrical connects to insure they are clean and secure
    Change your gearoil...use Merc High Performance Gear Lube
    Check fuel pressure and air pressure to insure they are in spec:
    80 psi air pressure 90 psi fuel pressure

    Optional: I like to reset the break-in mode annually so that the first couple of
    hours the engine automatically gets extra oil above 2500 rpm...this
    might be especially good for the engine if it has been sitting for
    months between uses.
    I highly recommend full time use of a good fuel treatment such as
    Startron along with Mid-Grade Gas of a major brand. Avoid high
    concentrations of ethanol if you can. Merc says up to 10% is ok,
    but I say avoid it if possible.

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    '04 Opti

    Thank you sir. I ran a carb'ed 200 Johnson for years, that was like working on my buddy's '68 Beaumont 265 V8 compared to the Opti.

    I only use manufacturers products in my motors. Made a huge difference when the Johnny blew up years ago, one of the first questions OMC asked was what oil do you use...read him the part #'s from the oil, LU lube, OMC tuner and storage oil and wax containers. It just makes sense to me.

    I have been burning regular, does it need a higher grade ?

    How do I reset the break in mode ?

    It's an '04 225L, SN is OT944253 if anyone can check the history from me that would be cool.

    BTW '04 Trition TR-20X, 26 Trophy Plus, 74.6 mpm

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    I set the break in mode using my DDT tool. I consider this tool a "must have" if you are going to be working on Optimax engines. (along with the factory service manual). The factory manual will also describe the procedure for priming the oil pump manually which I believe also resets the break-in mode.

    I recommend mid-grade simply because it is more likely to meet the mininum octane requirement (87)...especially if the fuel is over a few months old.

    By the way, using the DDT you can access the engine computer and review the complete run history, which is very cool.
    If you call a Mercury dealer and give them the serial number they can see if any warranty work has been done or if there are any "open campaigns" (work that was supposed to be done under warranty, but hasn't yet been done).

  5. #5
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    hey there sos merc, I honestly never knew that consumers did or wanted to access all of that info, thats awesome. It seems that with these new motors people are restricted to going to their dealers and paying the $80 and hour labor rate, but with the right tools they can scan the history and prime the oil system, sounds alot cheaper....the only thing that would freak me out is someone screwing up a motor while under warranty, pretty sure BRP, merc or yammie would decline the claim, maybe not......Does the AMSOIL injector oil work just as good as the prem plus or opti oil? Ive been trained and told by merc to only use the opti oil, I though only the older true xs motors got the prem plus??? and the older optis before the opti oil came out, a couple guys asked if the xd 100 oil would clog their injectors???? Let me know cause I know the xd100 is a great product, thanks alot

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    I am sure the xd100 oil would be just fine, as long as it is recommended for DFI engines. The Amsoil HP Injector oil is a VERY good oil and is designed for DFI engines.
    The Mercury High Performance Optimax engines are still getting the Premium PLUS recommendation from Merc.

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    i thought you were supposed to run opti oil only in these motors? at $30 a gallon, it would be nice to run an alternative...

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    Merc's Premium PLUS semi-synthetic oil has always been approved for the Optimax and recommended by Merc. When Merc introduced their "Optimax Oil" they made that their first recommendation for the standard consumer Optimax engines, but the Premium Plus was still an approved alternative.
    The Race Optimax engines are supposed to use Premium PLus as the first choice oil.
    Something to remember...the Merc Optimax Oil is NOT approved as an alternative where TCW III oils are called for such as a 3.0 litre EFI or 200 XRI.

    I know that prices will vary, but just FYI, I am selling all the oils I offer @ $23 per gallon...Merc Premium Plus, Merc Optimax Oil and Amsoil HP Injector Oil. These are the only 2 stroke oils I feel that I need to stock for my 2 stroke customers.

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    We are closer to $45 a gal for Opti oil here. Good to know that the PP can be used as a sub in case I forget to fill up and have to mooch at the boat ramp...again.

    I need to change out the tilt ram seal. Have you ever tackled that job ? Any tips ?

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    To do the tilt ram seal, I completely remove the trim unit from the engine and mount in a vice. Put a large rubber band or tie wrap or something to hold the tilt cylinder in the upright position. Run the ram to the full up position. Then relieve pressure in the system by opening the manual release valve.
    I use Merc's spanner wrench with a 2 ft. pipe for leverage to unscrew the seal carrier. Then you remove the ram from the cylinder and mount it in a vice. Again, using a spanner you have to unscrew the piece that hold all the little check valves in place. You remove that piece and then slide off the seal carrier. I install a new seal carrier and reverse the process.

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    Thanks for the advice, looks pretty straight forward. Ordered the spanner for the cyl cap. I've seen what they look like after attempting to remove with the hammer and punch method. Parts are coming. Does the check valve assembly come off in one unit or will it come apart and shoot springs and ball bearings all over the place ?

    C

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    As long as you are slow and careful, it can be removed in one piece and set aside without disturbing the springs and check balls.

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