S.L.O.W sensors...what are these?...

[79Jcraft]

found a thread from the guy I bought this off and he said he had replaced these due to a short...what are they and where can i check em out

[flabum1017]

SLOW sensors are located in the cylinder heads. When the engine reaches (I may be wrong) 212 degrees F, it activates the SLOW system that reduces power to the engine through the power pack and doesn't allow you tou rev more that 2400 rpm. The only way to get out of SLOW is for the engine to cool below 175* and be shut off and restarted. SLOW will also kick in if it senses a lack of oil from the VRO pump.

[79Jcraft]

maybe that is the problem.....there is no vro anymore and he left the wires dangling in the cowl...how would i bypass this situation...and thanks a LOT for al your help I super appreciate it...If I can save bringing it to the marina it is worth the scrapednuckles and peace inthe household...the wife will kill me if I spend much more money on the boat right now seeing as the season is basically over...haha

[flabum1017]

In your other thread, you said it does get up to rpm, but slowly. If the SLOW was activated, it would not go past 2400. Did you do the basics yet?

[79Jcraft]

just about to go check al that...my wife was on the rempage so i've been hiding downstairs reading the clymers manual..lol she just woke from a nap so maybe she won't get mad if i go out and put the earmuffs on it..lol

[flabum1017]

There are plenty of thing it can be, loose reed boxes, broken reeds, bad coil, bad power pack, shift swicth hanging, water in the fuel, fouled plugs. Do the basics first (doesn't cost anything) and let us know the results.

[79Jcraft]

what do you mean by switch shift hanging...because when i shift the motor it is super hard and doesn't want to go back to neutral..I thought it was the idle was too high..could this be part of the equation?

[flabum1017]

High idle will cause hard shifting. The shift switch knocks out three cylinders while you are shifting to make it easier. If the shift cable is adjusted too tight in forward, the shift switch will engage as you come off idle causing the engine to run on three cylinders. When you shift the control from nuetral to forward it goes so far, then as you begin to accelerate, the control moves the shift just a little more. To adjust the shift cable properly, you have to put the control in ful-throttle forward and adjust the cable two turns shy of tight.

[flabum1017]

Also, in your other thread, someone mentioned flywheel magnets which is a good piece of advice. Look at all the magnets under the flywheel, you are looking for any that are loose or broken.

[bigbore]

SLOW sensors are located in the cylinder heads. When the engine reaches (I may be wrong) 212 degrees F, it activates the SLOW system that reduces power to the engine through the power pack and doesn't allow you tou rev more that 2400 rpm. The only way to get out of SLOW is for the engine to cool below 175* and be shut off and restarted. SLOW will also kick in if it senses a lack of oil from the VRO pump.

It also activates 2500 n under.TRUE-VRO activates slow also.

[79Jcraft]

ok...so i just came in..I checked as many of the issues as you guys mentioned..I did not check the magnets...I just saw that here...


Plugs were ngk...I opted to put back my old ones from the 235 with flat tops on them...they worked great on the other motor and were relatively new. I took off the carbs to look at the reeds..there was a nut missing from the top right carb all that was there was the stud..(odd I thought...)
by the time I took off the mid right carb I looked in at the reeds and noticed a nice shiny nut which was identical to the nuts on the rest of the carb studs...dumbass who put it together last must have dropped it in there and didn't find one to replace it. Thankfully it didn't make its way into the cylinder somehow. next i checked all my fuel lines..there was a plugged line which they must have done to remove the VRO system...it was leaking horribly. I took out the screw they used and replaced it with a bigger bolt and tightened a zip tie on it.(fixed) Fuel pressure on the system is holding at 8 lbs..hopefully this is acceptable.
I checked the throttle and its range of opening the butterflies...it seems they barely move until I am 75-80 through the full range forward motion on the handle..then you have to give a few hard taps down to get them to open all the way...may explain the piss poor takeoff inability to control the throttle well.
I checked the plug wires also... they look ok..but i will be replacing them this week with performance ones..better to be safe and shouldn't cost much and I'd be buying them for next summer anyway.
I am certain there is no water in the fuel plus i also have a water separator inline with my holley blue pump.
The reeds all looked tight and brand new nice and shiny..lol assuming they are stainless....should I look into replacing them with carbon ones? (once i fix the issue at hand)
Nightfall came too early and i wasn't able to get it fired up as we have lots of kids around who'd be getting ready for bed right now...damn mid section exhaust makes using a garbage can impossible to muffle the sound...sits too high on the trailer. anyways so i never got to check the coils. My volt meter has some tired batteries so I couldn't get a reading off the powerpack wires running to the coils...likewise didn't check the resistance of the coils yet....would they be the same as my coils I have on the 235 (1980) they look pretty well the same if so i know those work well.

[bigbore]

Reeds are a good idea but make sure its jetted correctly.

[Riverratt]

8lbs of fuel pressure sounds high

[flabum1017]

Champion QL77JC4 are what belongs in that motor

[flabum1017]

Reeds are a good idea but make sure its jetted correctly.

He said it was running fine 2 weeks ago, so I don't think it's something fixed. I think it's going to be something like clogged carbs or faulty ignition.