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  1. #1
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    Got thru chine walk...now what?

    I have read alot on this site about chine walk and how to get thru it (seat time, back off a hair on throttle and play with trim, etc) ...it worked.

    BTW I have a V-King with a 225XS and run a 19 pitch for ski and a 25 pitch for speed. Prop shaft is about 4.5" below the pad. I have dual push-pull steering but do not know if late model XS motors have solid mounts. I do not want to change prop height as I do use the boat to ski with and need the hole shot. I also have a 29.5 pitch which I havent gotten to yet.

    My question is this: Chine walk appears at 50+. You get thru the chine walk after 65-70. Then what? Give her the gas? Will the chine walk suddenly reappear at 80? With worse and possibly disaterous results because you are now going really fast? Or is it like breaking the sound barrier and clear sailing ahead?

    Great site and great expertise here. Thanks in advance for any replys.

    TJ

    When I did this I ran out of lake. In 3 weeks I am going to a really big lake and so will have time to play.

  2. #2
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    The chine walk is always there if your not correcting it. Once your over 60 is when you have to be most carful and balance the hull. Dont play with your engine hight for now but set it rletivley close to even with the pad or bottom. I dont have a Vking but a good place to leave it for now would be most lickley 1/4 bellow. Once youve gotten to 60 stay in the throtle and and just start bumping the trim not to much just a few bumps like bbb. Bring her to 75 and see how you do at that speed.If you are steady there run there for a while and see how she goes. Remeber its very important when you back off the throtle at those speeds and higher to do it very slowly untill you get to know how your hull reacts to slowing down at speed. Some times differant props and or hulls will react violently if you let off by just chopping the throtle. so just bump the trim back down one bump at a time and let off at the same time nice and easy. Just keep doing that for a while untill you can hold 75 steady for a mile or so before you try any faster. When your good you can from an idle stomp it and stay in her right up to top speed. but get to know your trim settings at differnt speeds first because if you trim to much at higher speed you can blow the prop up out of the water and cause your bow to drop to fast and spin you out and mabe you to. Were your saftey gear kill switch ect. Best find a nice area were your not going to have to cross a roage wake! if your prop shaft is 4.5 below your way to low on your gearcase. Haveing the prop that low in the water at speed is not a good idea. You will also find that by raiseing your motor your balancing act will be more touchy so remeber to take it cool the first run with the motor higher. Run with at least the 25 for practicing because the 19 isnt going to give you the speed you will need to learn how to drive in. Save the higher pich for when you can master the 25 then it wont mater what you put on there you will be stylen. wakes over 65 are your enamy for now so avoid them when your practicing. If you do accedently come across a set stay steady on the throtle or if you can slow to 55 before you hit them do that. but not buy lowering your bow quickly from 75. Just make sure before you start that you have a clear path is the best idea. You will get to know what speeds you can travel over what size wakes soon enough. Best to wait till your comfy at speed with out washing the decals. Stay safe and be responsable. There is one more thing about your Q its at wot you will have less tourqe on the wheel because the prop has stopped creating acceleration enertia. On the way up to speeds you will make more corrections to stay steady than at wot. That is not saying though you can drive threw any speed and have your chine walk correct it self! That doesnt happen. You will always have to make corrections but there are times when depending on many factors you have to make more than others. Wind,props, balanced load are just a few. If your hull is properly balanced most likely you will have some balist on your port side balancing your hull to run true will take less correction but will always need some correcting. Hope this long explanation helps some its not an easy question to write about like you said its the seat time that will ultimately make operating a high performance boat a safer experiance aspecualy a fast vee hull! James
    Last edited by whipper; 08-21-2007 at 03:09 AM.

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  4. #3
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    Well said James!!!
    Gary Johnson
    In my many years I have come to a conclusion that one useless man is a shame, two is a law firm and three or more is a congress.
    -- John Adams

  5. #4
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    Geeezzzz!!!

    What James said. He covered it all. But pay special attention to what he said about coming off throttle and little down bumps on the trim...very important.

    Scott

  6. #5
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    Dang James!!! I thought you were on Vacation??? Would have took me two days to type all that. Get off the computer and go burn some more gas...

  7. #6
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    What gearcase does it have? If you don't have a LWPU and the prop shaft way closer to level with the pad you will blow out about 80-85.

  8. #7
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    Hey gus thanks for all the info. My propshaft is about 4.5" below the pad. Will this exacerbate chine walk? I do use this boat to ski with and need the hole shot. If I raise the motor what will that do to my hole shot?

    I like fast but understand one boat cant do it all - thats why I have 2 - the other one is a 24' cat with 2 300PM's and I have had this one up to 75 (on the small lake) - it should do over 100 easy. Tunnels are a whole different story.

    This is the one and only place to get GOOD info - my hat is off to all the guys here that have been there and done it.

    BTW - does anyone know if a 2007 225XS comes with solid motor mounts?

    Thanks, TJ

  9. #8
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    Not sure on the mounts best to check yourself anyway or ask the guy you got her from. If like forkin said you have Low water pickups witch i am just assuming you do and if you dont you should have with that combo you can run your moter way higher with a 225 and still have great hole shots. I ski,and tube with a 25 trophy at 1/4 to 1/2 bellow just tucking in the motor to start should be all you need to do. I dont ever half to sink the gear case to get a skier up. You sound like you dont have a hydrolic jackplate? Thats a pain in the arse not haveing one. If you have to manualy raise your engine hight i would set her down a few notches from were she is anyway.if your not running at least 3/4 below your 75+ performance will suffer again assuming you have LWPU. BRA I am still on holidays if you look at the times of my post when I get back to my dads on the island were im at now I do a little surfen. I was getting withdrawls over the last few weeks. Sleep time then to the beach tomorrow or I guess its today.

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