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Thread: aquabuff
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03-18-2007, 11:21 AM #1Member
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aquabuff
has anyone tried aquabuff from yachtbrite??? heard a good review about it but i am wondering if anyone else has tried it... my 89basscat has some oxidation on it and i am planning on getting it recleared with clear gel in about 3 months but i am considering trying this product..
thanks,
jim
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03-18-2007, 11:26 AM #2
aqua buff
I've used it for the past couple of years. It really brought back the shine. My 16 year old finish looks almost new.
Last edited by amityray; 06-05-2007 at 05:14 PM.
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03-28-2007, 08:55 PM #3
Its supposed to be great stuff.I bought a 17 yr old Checkmate last fall and the previous owner used it.He gave me 2 gallons of it.Now, I need to figure out how to use it.The directions on the side have wax on them and are difficult to read.Any help would be appreciated.
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04-02-2007, 12:58 PM #4Member
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Here ya go JBS,
http://www.fiber-tek.com/Bulletins/AquaBuff.htm
Good stuff, just keeep the beverages flowing during the process but the final result is worth it.
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04-02-2007, 07:52 PM #5
Thanks Costa!
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04-02-2007, 08:23 PM #6
if you are talking about aquabuff 1000 or aquabuff 2000, it is an awesome product. I got a tip the other day from I believe gelcoatjoe to use windex instead of a spray bottle with water. I did it, and it is a GREAT tip. The stuff is simply awesome.
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04-05-2007, 07:32 PM #7Member
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Windex Tip
Thanks for the windex tip Fish, I will have to give it a try. Tha Aquabuff 200 is to get heavy oxidation off, and it must be followed up with the Aquabuff 1000. Afte I did mine I had to go at and use Meguires cleaner wax and then some caranuba wax on top. I have heard of some people using the Flitz polish after the 1000 but I have not tried that one before.
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04-06-2007, 10:57 AM #8
Costa, I think the 1000 is the real heavy cut stufff, and the 2000 is much lighter. I have used flitz and it is amazing on all types of metals ( I did a post recently on a single application before and after on my sportmaster). It will work really well on pelxiglass, eizenglass and also fiberglass, but considering the cost, I would use the aquabuff on the fiberglass and then follow it up with a good polish for killer shine.
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04-06-2007, 11:03 AM #9
You're right.
The 1000 is the heavy cut compound.
The 2000 is for light oxidation.
http://www.aqua-buff.com/
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04-07-2007, 09:38 PM #10Member
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Sorry about that 1000-2000 mix-up!!
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04-12-2007, 11:48 AM #11
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04-12-2007, 12:02 PM #12
Nice one Fish. I'm gonna go get some. I'm polishing my wing plates and mid while I have it all apart. Gotta at least LOOK good this year!!!
Ló fasz racing
Joe Horvath
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04-12-2007, 12:09 PM #13
I have a bobs cone thats painted black. If I took of the paint and polished it would it come out like yours Fish? James
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04-12-2007, 12:47 PM #14
Probably not James. Bob's cones are added to an existing lower unit and depending on when it was done, it might be welded or bondoed. In either case, I think the paint will be the best looking on a bob's LU.
Thanks Joe, it really is great stuff. I used it on some chrome heat exchangers on a set of 1692TI diesels that over time had become badly discolored from the heat and had some slight rust pitting. They looked like new when I got done. Its been around for a long time but mostly a biker secret until west marine and chains like that started carrying it.
This took longer than 5 minutes, but was worth it considering that was about 20 years of buildup I was taking off at some pretty extreme temps.
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04-13-2007, 05:17 PM #15Member
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Biker secret!! I have been using it for years, but quit riding because of too many injuries. By the way the L/U and the exchangers look great.